Extra wires to battery

[barret]

This is my first time connecting the batteries since picking it up from the dealer last fall. They had red and white #6 gauge wires only hooked up. I noticed a sticker on the side of the frame that read white to negative and black to positive. Since this didn't match the wire coloring I looked around and found a loop bundled under the battery tray with two #10 gauge wires white and black with eye connectors which appear to be ready to hook to the battery also. Should I hook these or leave them disconnected?

[Bama Rambler]

I'd try to find out what those wires are for before just hooking them up.

Since it's a toy hauler it could be for the fuel station.

[barret]

I am hoping to find out what they are for. My dealers service department is closed until Monday. I tried to physically trace them along the frame but they disappear up into the floor. The included manuals don't show anything. I had not thought of them being for a fuel station There is a Zamp Solar sticker in the unit so maybe they have something to do with that or the optional rear bed lift that is not installed. If no one here knows than maybe the dealer can give me info on Monday.

Thanks for the info and I will leave them until I find out.

[Skyliner]

Originally Posted by barret

This is my first time connecting the batteries since picking it up from the dealer last fall. They had red and white #6 gauge wires only hooked up. I noticed a sticker on the side of the frame that read white to negative and black to positive. Since this didn't match the wire coloring I looked around and found a loop bundled under the battery tray with two #10 gauge wires white and black with eye connectors which appear to be ready to hook to the battery also. Should I hook these or leave them disconnected?

Use a multimeter continuity function (resistance feature) to check which battery wire is positive and which is negative. The negative one will show resistance/continuity between the terminal and and the frame-make sure the spot you check isnt painted.

ALL RV batteries should have a catastrophic fuse install. This not only protects against incorrectly connecting batteries but also against shorts. Think about that positive battery cable that is rubbing against the frame or another metal component attached to the frame. What a nice fire or explosure you may have if the insulation wears thru and shorts out the battery.

http://www.thewanderman.com/2014/10/...-fuse-for.html

[barret]

Thanks Tony, I know which is positive and negative but that's not my problem. I have an extra set of wires that were not connected from when i picked up the hauler new and am not sure what they are for and if they should be hooked. The smaller white and black leads in the photo were not connected just bundled under the battery frame.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by barret

Thanks Tony, I know which is positive and negative but that's not my problem. I have an extra set of wires that were not connected from when i picked up the hauler new and am not sure what they are for and if they should be hooked. The smaller white and black leads in the photo were not connected just bundled under the battery frame.

Fuel pump, tailgate winch?

Is there a bed that goes up and down by the tailgate?

Just guessing....

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I'd try to find out what those wires are for before just hooking them up.

Since it's a toy hauler it could be for the fuel station.

The toy hauler we have on order seems to have a pair of , looks like , 4ga to the generator. A pair of 6 ga or maybe only 8 GA with negative to the frame and POS to the converter and finally a pair of (sadly only) 10 GA from the the solar controller. They are all clearly marked, but with production history to rely upon, I would verify everyone before hooking it up

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by barret

Thanks Tony, I know which is positive and negative but that's not my problem. I have an extra set of wires that were not connected from when i picked up the hauler new and am not sure what they are for and if they should be hooked. The smaller white and black leads in the photo were not connected just bundled under the battery frame.

What is on the roof? If you have solar, maybe they didn't hook it up. If not, maybe it is a solar prewire, or would that be too much to ask for? Was it new or new to you. If new, the dealer's service dept should be able to tell you. Notice I didn't say sales man.

[barret]

Originally Posted by Tom48

What is on the roof? If you have solar, maybe they didn't hook it up. If not, maybe it is a solar prewire, or would that be too much to ask for? Was it new or new to you. If new, the dealer's service dept should be able to tell you. Notice I didn't say sales man.

It was a brand new unit I purchased from the dealer. I will verify with the service dept on Monday but from reading your reply and some searching here on the forum I am leaning towards these 10 gauge wires being a pre wire for the Zamp solar which a sticker inside the unit says it is equipped. These would be the supply wires back to the batteries.

Thanks for all of the replies. I'll post what I find out from the service dept.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by barret

It was a brand new unit I purchased from the dealer. I will verify with the service dept on Monday but from reading your reply and some searching here on the forum I am leaning towards these 10 gauge wires being a pre wire for the Zamp solar which a sticker inside the unit says it is equipped. These would be the supply wires back to the batteries.

Thanks for all of the replies. I'll post what I find out from the service dept.

Well I am a big advocate of Solar. With 200 watts on our old TH we only used the generator when A/C was needed and we have only used hook ups three or four times ever. Pre Wire is a big leg on for going solar
I hear there is a deception in Zamp running their polarity opposite of normal connectors, but that can be determined with a volt meter. I noticed the 100 watt starter version of the 200 watt WindyNation.com system I put on our old toy hauler is on sale for under $200 on Amazon. Probably free shipping but for sure free shipping if you go to WindyNation.com direct

[barret]

Originally Posted by Tom48

Well I am a big advocate of Solar. With 200 watts on our old TH we only used the generator when A/C was needed and we have only used hook ups three or four times ever. Pre Wire is a big leg on for going solar
I hear there is a deception in Zamp running their polarity opposite of normal connectors, but that can be determined with a volt meter. I noticed the 100 watt starter version of the 200 watt WindyNation.com system I put on our old toy hauler is on sale for under $200 on Amazon. Probably free shipping but for sure free shipping if you go to WindyNation.com direct

Most of our camping is also done without hookups so I am interested in the solar potential. I will look into your suggestions on Amazon.

[barret]

Well I just got off the phone with my local dealers service department and they had no firm answer of what they were for. They asked if everything seemed to work OK without them hooked up and if so to leave them disconnected. I asked if they could be a prewire for solar and they said possibly. So no help there and really not surprised.

Being that they are not labeled and on the info gathered here I will leave them disconnected for now.

[Bama Rambler]

Try taking a multimeter on resistance and check resistance between the wires. Of course if it's close to zero the wires are shorted and you shouldn't hook them up. If it shows a very high resistance or infinite resistance it possibly has an open switch somewhere or the wires are disconnected.

I'd go to the RV and check everything in and around it to see if there's anything that doesn't work. If you find anything, that's probably what the wires are for. If you find something that doesn't work, and you got anything except a short during the during the resistance test, I'd hook up the wires and see if that item works now.

[ornery]

Originally Posted by barret

This is my first time connecting the batteries since picking it up from the dealer last fall. They had red and white #6 gauge wires only hooked up. I noticed a sticker on the side of the frame that read white to negative and black to positive. Since this didn't match the wire coloring I looked around and found a loop bundled under the battery tray with two #10 gauge wires white and black with eye connectors which appear to be ready to hook to the battery also. Should I hook these or leave them disconnected?

Do you have Volt/Ohm meter? If not get one. Sometimes free with coupon and ANY purchase at Harbor Freight ©.
Meanwhile set the Volt/Ohm meter to Ohms. Hold one probe on the White Wire and touch the other probe to metal such as the frame. The meter should read 0.000. If not repeat the process with the Black wire.
As an alternative, follow the white wire to under the vehicle. It should be attached to some metal such as the frame.
NOTE: USUALLY the colored wire, Black/Red is Hot or Positive.
The wire that tests 0.000 between it and metal frame is your Negative/ground. Connect that wire to Negative Battery Terminal.

[DRiveWell]

I would check if there is a voltage between the two "unknown source/destination" wires in question. If so, I would make sure they are wrapped separately so they cannot contact anything. If not, connect them together and check for continuity at the Zamp connector. If continuity, disconnect the two wires in question to see that it opens the circuit. If so, issue solved.