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Old 04-30-2015, 04:16 PM   #11
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Looks like a 200A service. There are 4 breakers tied together at the top. The bar tying the breakers together has "200" imprinted on it.There are actually 2 boxes side by side. There are blank slots in one of them...

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Old 04-30-2015, 04:23 PM   #12
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The camper is NOT 220. DO NOT let your electrician wire your 30 amp socket for 220. Must be 50 examples here of cooked campers due to "competent electricians or friends" wiring the socket wrong. THOUSANDS of dollars in damages.

Make sure your electrician READS and understands the attached article on how to do it.
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Old 04-30-2015, 06:42 PM   #13
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Just remember that if you tie onto the existing 200 amp service that whatever load you have in your detached garage/ RV will mean that much less for the house.
I am assuming that you have no electric in the garage now?

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Old 05-01-2015, 01:58 PM   #14
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A tenant doesn't have the right to make wiring changes of that magnitude. You need to get the landlord to go down to the planning dept and make an application for an electrical permit to change the existing meter and service. If you have 200 amps in an all electric home you don't have enough amperage to run a sub panel. It will require either a 400 amp meter pan and another 200 amp box with a disconnect between the meter and service panel, or another meter pan and breaker service panel, say 125 amps, both mounted on the garage wall. Then you can run the wires from the lugs of the meter to the two busses in the service panel. You'll probably have to run 1/0 hot wires and #2 ga neutral. Those wires will run from the meter through the conduit and hang about three feet out of the weather head, and that is what the electric company will splice to AFTER the planning dept approves it, and places tape around the conduit with their initials on it. The conduit will probably be ten feet in the air above the meter, wires inside, and may have to go through the edge of the garage roof. My planning dept required a water proof box with a GFCI outlet within 5' of the meter to test. Only then can you start putting breakers in and running wire to lights and outlets. BTW, you want a single pole 30 amp breaker for your TT. One hot will go to the breaker and the other to the neutral bus, and of course a ground. Every state and county have different codes and requirements. I've installed over 20 and rarely found two exactly alike. You can go online for your state and county and find the planning dept. Then look up electrical installations. You want "change or addition to an existing service". They will have diagrams you can print out and an equipment list so you can cost it all out. Personally if I were you, I'd want the 125 amp new service. Then you'd have room for A/C and extra circuits. Good luck to you!
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Old 05-01-2015, 02:11 PM   #15
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Unless I missed it, you did not say what you want to run in the TT. If you are not living it it and just keeping the battery charged, running a few lights you should be fine. Having a 30A service simply means the max load should be 30A. You can draw 3-4 amps and be fine. If you want to run the AC and microwave, you should be running a separate line depending on what the house requirement is. If you have an AC in the house, one in the garage and one in the TT along with a water heater and dryer, you are eating up a lot of your 200 A.

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Old 05-01-2015, 09:32 PM   #16
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If you're not running AC in the trailer you could use a 20a to 30a dog bone and save yourself some loot.

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Old 05-01-2015, 09:50 PM   #17
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imo Your landlord must give his approval before you even think about doing anything.

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