Originally Posted by Puzzlme
Okay, bear with me I know nothing about electricity, grounding etc.
Are you saying that the socket I plan to plug into is already grounded but that I should ground the case as well? Are you saying that I can just run a 14 strand wire from the case (there is a place on the inverter for doing this) to the ground wire in the same socket? or to the ground wire in the nearest light fixture?
Please do the "for Dummies" version. I am a pretty quick learner but have no background in this sort of thing.
And thanks for responding.
FR service department tells me I have 2 options, ground it to the battery or hard wire the inverter. I figured there must be a simple non permanent solution and that this was the right place to come for an answer.
An even easier option is to just wire the case ground terminal to the negative wire on the plug. In DC voltage, the negative wire is the ground. In the case of your rv, the negative wires of all of the DC (ie the 12V stuff) go back to a grounding terminal strip near the converter, which is in turn wired to the frame of the camper. The negative battery terminal will with go straight to the frame as well, or back to that terminal I spoke of.
The purpose of that case ground is to serve as a ground reference for the AC side, or the output, of the inverter. High end inverters typically have this done for you internally, but your does not seem to per the manufacturer recommendation. For your purposes, a 14 AWG stranded wire from the case of the case terminal of the inverter spliced into the negative wire on the plug that you plug into the 12VDC socket will serve just fine.
Eta...the negative wire on the 12VDC plug, if they are not marked which I doubt, is going to be the wire that is connected to the side blades on the plug. The positive wire is the one that connects to the center post. You can see which one is which pretty easily if you have a meter that has a continuity checker. Just don't check for continuity with it actually plugged in!
Eta no 2....just in case...if you are running this inverter in a vehicle (motor home), which is supplying power through an alternator and then through a regulator when running, you will need a hard wire that goes to the frame. This is due to the induced noise (phantom voltage) from the alternator that can be problematic if you ground through the entire electrical system circuitry like I am describing. I did also miss that you stated when "boondocking". If you are on generator power you may have the same issue, though I assume that since you're using an external inverter that this is not the case. If you are running strictly on battery then you'll be fine doing it the way I outlined above.