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Old 03-23-2019, 11:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by TomLerch View Post
While attempting to wire an internal fan to assist with cooling, I thought I could tap in to the 12v from the light. I disconnected the wire to switch, cut off the female adapter and connected the positive lead only to realize it will only feed power when the door is open. Duh. It was at the end of a long day and I decided to stop and start again another day. Well, two weeks later and I can’t remember how the switch was wired before. I should have taken an image of the switch so I could reference later but...duh.

Anyways, I need help putting this back together. Concerned if I wire it wrong I will short the frig out. Pretty sure they have engineered it so I can’t fry it but I want to be sure. Where do these wires go? Bonus points if you can advise me where to wire the 12v for the fan.
This is my Fridge fan install:

1> I replaced light with a LED light.
2> I installed a 0.15a Fan to the light switch.
75mm x 30mm 7530 12V Dual Ball Bearing DC Brushless Cooling Blower Fan from Amazon
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Old 03-24-2019, 12:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rk06382 View Post
This is my Fridge fan install:

1> I replaced light with a LED light.
2> I installed a 0.15a Fan to the light switch.
75mm x 30mm 7530 12V Dual Ball Bearing DC Brushless Cooling Blower Fan from Amazon
Attachment 199527

Attachment 199528
Be aware that if your fridge has a Low Ambient Switch, it uses the incandescent interior light to put a "false heat load" into the fridge so it will work better and won't freeze up during low (<50F) outside temperatures.

Being from Alaska, this might be important to you.

See pg 18 in the attached manual.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Dometic Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual.pdf (2.42 MB, 111 views)
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Be aware that if your fridge has a Low Ambient Switch, it uses the incandescent interior light to put a "false heat load" into the fridge so it will work better and won't freeze up during low (<50F) outside temperatures.

Being from Alaska, this might be important to you.

See pg 18 in the attached manual.
I read 'Dometic Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual' in regards to 'The heat load of the 10 watt light bulb will cause the cooling unit to cycle approximate every 35 to 55 minutes.'

My fan will replace the convection air flow of the 'The heat load of the 10 watt light bulb.'

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Name:	5.12 Low Ambient Switch - Dometic Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual.jpg
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Sec 5.12 Low Ambient Switch on page 18 of Dometic Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:42 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rk06382 View Post
I read 'Dometic Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual' in regards to 'The heat load of the 10 watt light bulb will cause the cooling unit to cycle approximate every 35 to 55 minutes.'

My fan will replace the convection air flow of the 'The heat load of the 10 watt light bulb.'

Attachment 199715
Sec 5.12 Low Ambient Switch on page 18 of Dometic Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual.
You stated your fan pulls 0.15 amps. 0.15amps x 12 VDC = 1.8 watts. So 18% of the heat load of the 10 watt light bulb.

Good luck.
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Old 03-25-2019, 01:35 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
You stated your fan pulls 0.15 amps. 0.15amps x 12 VDC = 1.8 watts. So 18% of the heat load of the 10 watt light bulb.

Good luck.
1> The LED lamp is 3.8 watts.
2> The Fan is running 24/7, circulating air inside the fridge.
3> I fixed the my loose Thermistor
See: Dometic RM2652 Thermistor Adjustment fix
4> I monitor the fridge temperature with a AcuRite 00986M Refrigerator/Freezer Wireless Digital Thermometer
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Old 03-27-2019, 12:23 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rk06382 View Post
This is my Fridge fan install:

1> I replaced light with a LED light.
2> I installed a 0.15a Fan to the light switch.
75mm x 30mm 7530 12V Dual Ball Bearing DC Brushless Cooling Blower Fan from Amazon
Attachment 199527

Attachment 199528

This is the post that helped the most. Thank you for the clear picture.
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