help identify other pro/cons please - solar set up

[PokerDealer]

I completed my set up for the electrical/solar provider monitor. I brought the connection in from the batteries to a pre-wired board, then on to the rest of the TT. I'm still w8n4 two 75 watt Lensun flexible panels and 30ft of extension cable. Any suggestions or ideas are appreciated.

[friendofacatahoula]

Nice installation.


I opted to not add any additional holes to my roof or sidewalls. The only hole I added was in the floor to run the cabling to the batteries. I am also not running a large inverter.


My 10 awg I ran down the channeling for my power awning. It has a cover the slides over to hide the wires and was already being used to run the awning power.

My monitor I installed in my AV cabinet. My existing control center for the trailer is at the back door and I didn't want to run the wires all the way back there and wanted to keep a simple clean look but still have the monitor in an easy spot to view.

I thought I had a photo of the charge controller location with the shunt and breakers mounted but I guess I didn't take one. I have a similar board with everything mounted. It lives in my front pass through close to the access door. Everything is protected with loom and cable ties.

[Grizzzman]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

First, you can leave the WFCO or replace it with a PD unit as it has nothing to do with the SC2030 charge controller from Bogart. The 2030 positive lead goes to the battery positive and the negative lead goes to the chassis, just like the negative lead of the WFCO does. You can put the positive lug on the battery controller post that goes to the positive battery post, or you can run it directly to the battery positive post. Put a 30 amp fuse in the positive line from the SC2030 to the battery, since the 2030 cannot put out more than 20 amps anyway. The shunt goes between the battery common negative and the chassis ground. The sense wire to the TM goes on the battery side of the shunt and the two negative leads go on the shut post toward the chassis.

If you install the controller this way, the SC2030 will be able to charge your batteries regardless of whether the disconnect is on or off, unlike the WFCO which won't do anything with the disconnect off.

If you order the right length of #10 PV wire, you can run from the panels to the SC2030 directly, without the need for special connectors. However, most panels come with special solar connectors and you can get adaptors that will parallel both panels without any terminal strips. Many panels come with MC-4 solar connectors and you can just buy PV wire with the required connectors already attached. You can also get parallel adapters that will allow you to parallel two panels without resorting to 4 wires going down from the roof.

Take a look at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/HQRP-T-branch...=1&*entries*=0

Check what your panels have before you order the wire and connectors. Put a 30 amp fuse and fuse holder in the panel feed down from the roof to the SC2030.

"Put a 30 amp fuse in the positive line from the SC2030 to the battery, since the 2030 cannot put out more than 20 amps anyway." Simply put the SC2030 is a 31 amp controller. Read the Manuel. If you are only putting up two panels I would not bother with a fuse on the panel side.

[PokerDealer]

Awesome, that was the last loose end. Still w8n on the fancy new panels but plugged into AC at home, testing, monitoring the fridge. It's to temp, (just water bottles for now) . Just switched over to propane .. see if it keeps up, and at what cost (battery wise) thanks again.

[PokerDealer]

Thanks Grizz, I've got the 30 amp in place from the battery the controller. Two 75 watt lightweight solar panels are on the way, they are flexible, heck you can even walk on them with soft shoes. I ordered the 5 meter extension that comes with MC 4 clips. The only thing I'm going to do is make a stub that will go from the SC 2030, out through the top of the waterproof box with the Temp sensor and end with a secure clip, maybe 2 feet. That way I can store the panels in the back of the truck padded bag and just put them on my homemade rack and place/adjust them as needed thanks for the advice.....

[friendofacatahoula]

The SC2030 is a 30amp controller fyi.

-Up to 30 amps maximum solar current. Charger will safely reduce output if panel current exceeds 31 amps.

[Grizzzman]

Originally Posted by friendofacatahoula

The SC2030 is a 30amp controller fyi.

-Up to 30 amps maximum solar current. Charger will safely reduce output if panel current exceeds 31 amps.

Here is what Ralph Hiesey has to say (Engineer,Founder and owner of Bogart Engineering)

"
C4. What happens if my panels try to put more than 30 amps with your SC-2030, 30 amp Solar Charger? Will that damage it? Click for answer
No, it will not. Incidentally, it is actually a 31 amp charger. If you try to put in more than 31 amps it will limit the current to protect itself. So it is OK to use panels that normally have a maximum of about 30 amps or even more, but which may occasionally exceed that if cloud effects on a very sunny day cause the amps to go higher.
When that happens the amber light on the charger will flash twice per second to let you know. But if you try to exceed 31 amps, it will not just limit the amps to 31. In order to safely protect the charger, it will limit it to slightly LESS than 31 amps, according to this formula:
A= (31*31)/P = 961/P.
A=Amps into battery,
P=Amps panels try to put into charger when greater than 31 amps.
But you needn't be concerned that this will damage the SC-2030. If you try to use panels that very commonly go over 31 amps, you won't hurt the SC2030, but you will be losing some solar energy whenever that happens because it will be putting in LESS than 31 amps, however it won't be much less so long as the panels don't go much above 31 amps."

It's not often that the owner takes the time to answer "many" E-mail" questions before I purchased his system. A great guy to be sure. Forums are great but.............

[friendofacatahoula]

Originally Posted by Grizzzman

Here is what Ralph Hiesey has to say (Engineer,Founder and owner of Bogart Engineering)

"
C4. What happens if my panels try to put more than 30 amps with your SC-2030, 30 amp Solar Charger? Will that damage it? Click for answer
No, it will not. Incidentally, it is actually a 31 amp charger. If you try to put in more than 31 amps it will limit the current to protect itself. So it is OK to use panels that normally have a maximum of about 30 amps or even more, but which may occasionally exceed that if cloud effects on a very sunny day cause the amps to go higher.
When that happens the amber light on the charger will flash twice per second to let you know. But if you try to exceed 31 amps, it will not just limit the amps to 31. In order to safely protect the charger, it will limit it to slightly LESS than 31 amps, according to this formula:
A= (31*31)/P = 961/P.
A=Amps into battery,
P=Amps panels try to put into charger when greater than 31 amps.
But you needn't be concerned that this will damage the SC-2030. If you try to use panels that very commonly go over 31 amps, you won't hurt the SC2030, but you will be losing some solar energy whenever that happens because it will be putting in LESS than 31 amps, however it won't be much less so long as the panels don't go much above 31 amps."

It's not often that the owner takes the time to answer "many" E-mail" questions before I purchased his system. A great guy to be sure. Forums are great but.............

Not sure what you are getting at? Someone above said it was a 20 amp controller. I just added that it is a 30, or 31 as per Ralph.

Talked to Ralph a lot myself

[Grizzzman]

Originally Posted by friendofacatahoula

Not sure what you are getting at? Someone above said it was a 20 amp controller. I just added that it is a 30, or 31 as per Ralph.

Talked to Ralph a lot myself

Sorry I assumed (we all know what that gets ya) That you were disputing the 31 amp comment

[friendofacatahoula]

Originally Posted by Grizzzman

Sorry I assumed (we all know what that gets ya) That you were disputing the 31 amp comment

Ah, nope, not sure where that was conveyed.

But anyhow, its a long weekend here and I am working. Hope to have my replacement controller which is not a Bogart installed on Monday and I can check out everything then.

Then off for a 10 day trip and will really be able to test my set up.

Thanks for all the help.

[friendofacatahoula]

Well finally got my new Bogart controller. Not sure where the old one is and haven't heard from them yet.

Everything is installed and working well. In order to avoid adding holes to the roof I used the MC4 connectors and multipliers. It doesn't make for as clean of an instal but it's on the roof so I won't be looking at it. I did add some mc4 inline fuses as well. It was cheap insurance. Had I known you could get mc4 in lines when I first started it would have just been easier.

Yes one of the panels will receive shading if I am parked facing south. Otherwise it's a non issue and they are in parallel for that reason. I was going to mount that one on the rear of the trailer but the runs would have been longer than I liked. Getting 8 amps on over cast clouded days. If I get anything over 15amps on the lower efficiency flexible panels for extended periods it's all I wanted.

Thanks for the help.






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[PokerDealer]

Nice job! I'm convinced the TM\SC combo will maximize the life of my batteries. I ran my full load on battery for 48 hours. Got home, turned everything off. I draw .4 on the TM, I've been w8n4 the meter to read 2.2 before I recharge, but 36 hours later I'm still at 2.4 :-). I'M still w8n4 my two 75 watt, flexible Lensun panels, They're made it to the US now, maybe Friday:-) I think I'm going to make a lightweight stand out of PVC

[PokerDealer]

Have you been having any trouble getting the MC4 connectors apart? I'm looking at making a 3ft. stub to go from the SC2030 out through to top of my combiner box to a MC4 clip then plug in the 15ft. extension before i deploy them. Would a different kind of clip work better (no tool maybe)?

[friendofacatahoula]

No they seem to come apart relatively easy. I have heard they can be stubborn if cold. But working with them outside hasn't been an issue so far when test fitting and or sizing wife and once they are together I have no reason in the future to undo them unless I have a problem.

But you may consider a more heavy duty style connector. Like those used on larger power connections in industrial equipment. You can get mini versions.


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[Pill Billy]

Originally Posted by friendofacatahoula

Well finally got my new Bogart controller. Not sure where the old one is and haven't heard from them yet.

Everything is installed and working well. In order to avoid adding holes to the roof I used the MC4 connectors and multipliers. It doesn't make for as clean of an instal but it's on the roof so I won't be looking at it. I did add some mc4 inline fuses as well. It was cheap insurance. Had I known you could get mc4 in lines when I first started it would have just been easier.

Yes one of the panels will receive shading if I am parked facing south. Otherwise it's a non issue and they are in parallel for that reason. I was going to mount that one on the rear of the trailer but the runs would have been longer than I liked. Getting 8 amps on over cast clouded days. If I get anything over 15amps on the lower efficiency flexible panels for extended periods it's all I wanted.

Thanks for the help.






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Are those Renogy panels? They just recalled a ton of them. I have some non recall ones I haven't had an opportunity to install. Is that just duct tape holding the wires down?


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[friendofacatahoula]

Originally Posted by Pill Billy

Are those Renogy panels? They just recalled a ton of them. I have some non recall ones I haven't had an opportunity to install. Is that just duct tape holding the wires down?


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They are not Renology but an off brand version which I suspect come from the same plant in China. The retailer here has sold over 1200 of these panels in the past two years. These are brand new just delivered from the supplier.

It is Eternabond tape. It will not come loose.


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[CharlieS3]

You sound like you have thought about this a lot.

The newer flexible panels that glue to the top are getting pretty efficient. Layout to add as many as you can stuff on your roof. Even if you don't put them all up now, you can add more later. Figure out the maximum number you can put up there and get an MPPT controller that will handle that maximum. Use 8 gauge wire if you can, at least 10 gauge, and use a combiner box that you can add more lines two. Then you can add panels later as you want. You can also parallel new panels to your existing panels junction boxes instead of running them to the combiner box. You won't regret more panels. Install everything in parallel. Check each panel with a meter as you connect them.

Also look hard at your batteries. The whole six volt or 12 volt thing is pretty much irrelevant. Pound for Pound, it pretty much works out the same. Again, stuff as much battery as you can into your system. The key is not whether it is 6 or 12 volts, but rather your final amperage capacity in 12 volts. Personally, I have 4 LS-16s, which are 6 volt, with 2 pairs in series and those pairs in parallel, but that's just what worked best for me.

If you add a good voltage and current sensing meter, it will let you know your usage and the state of charge. Its easiest to estimate your state of charge using your voltage, but this changes with the load, so you need to know that as well. There are several good systems available for this.

Good Luck!

Charlie