HELP! shamrock rv tripping GFI shore power outlet.

hogie7171 · 06-24-2018, 06:31 AM

Before leaving for my first camping trip in my new to me 2010 shamrock 233s i was pluged into a 120v non gfi outlet and all seemed to work well. when i got to mu brother inlaws house and tried using all the sam set up with the exception of his 120v outlet is a CFI. the gfi tripped as soon as i tried plugging the camper in.

If i turn the breaker off to the fridge ican plug into the GFI with out it tripping. As soon as i turn the breaker on the CGI trips. If i unplug the fridge from the camper outlet and plug it directly into the GFI outlet , it works with out trippping it.

Also it appears that i can not run the fridge on LP with out the breaker on to ignite the pilot light. Is that correct ?

I have no idea where to start.

hogie7171 · 06-24-2018, 07:23 AM

I can not find how to delete my post , so i will just update it.

Turns out i was actually turing off the hot water heater breaker and that is what was tripping the GFi outlet. So until i am able to figure out why it is tripping it while on electric and repair it i will just keep running the hot water on LP.

stephndudb · 06-24-2018, 07:42 AM

Did you turn the electric hot water heater on while there was no water in the heater? That will ruin the electric element.

clr · 06-24-2018, 08:02 AM

You also cannot place two GFCI circuits in series like you just did. There are many technical reasons for this but the long and the short is that you should never use a GFCI outlet to plug your camper into.
Also I agree with the previous post, sounds like you turned on the electric heating element in the hot water tank with no water in the tank. This will burn out the element in minutes with no water in the tank.

hogie7171 · 06-24-2018, 08:38 AM

I have never owned a travel trailer before. This is my very first time taking the camper out. I dont recall trying to turn the water heater on prior to today. Unless i may have done it on accident.

Is the fix as easy as just replacing the electric element in the heater?

cavie · 06-24-2018, 08:44 AM

+3. Don't plug your camper into a GFI outlet. The water heater should not affect the GFI breaker in your trailer but it will trip the shore power 20 amp breaker. Your WH is on its own 15 amp breaker. That should trip first but not always. In my many years I have seen 150 amp trip before a 15.

**wmtire** · 06-24-2018, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogie7171

I have never owned a travel trailer before. This is my very first time taking the camper out. I dont recall trying to turn the water heater on prior to today. Unless i may have done it on accident.

Is the fix as easy as just replacing the electric element in the heater?

No sweat, in fact we have actually put together a list of links for those starting out (we were all new at some point). You can find it here, which may help to familiarize yourself with the more common asked questions/problems that new RV owners encounter.

Hope it helps and btw, welcome aboard.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ts-157524.html

Reverse_snowbird · 06-24-2018, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogie7171

Also it appears that i can not run the fridge on LP with out the breaker on to ignite the pilot light. Is that correct ?

That is correct. You need electricity to ignite the pilot light. Either plugged into shore power, running off the battery, or the tow vehicle.

The most efficient way to use the water heater on propane (or electric) is to keep it of until you know you'll be using it. It doesn't take long to heat the water and keeping it on all the time just wastes propane.

FrankMor · 06-24-2018, 03:42 PM

There is no pilot light on the fridge. If the fridge is on electric, it uses an electric coil to heat system. On propane it uses propane to heat the system. Both electric and propane use 12 volts to power the control board.

Frank

hogie7171 · 06-29-2018, 06:53 AM

Thank you all for your replies. Just got back from my camping trip and for the most part everything work as it should (other than the water heater on electric). I did have some water issues with the front and rear bunkends that i am going to have to look in to. Also had an isssue with the tank sensors. They all showed to be 1/3 full and the gay tank would show full after a days use , with only the two kids using the shower on the trailer.

**bikendan** · 06-29-2018, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogie7171

Thank you all for your replies. Just got back from my camping trip and for the most part everything work as it should (other than the water heater on electric). I did have some water issues with the front and rear bunkends that i am going to have to look in to. Also had an isssue with the tank sensors. They all showed to be 1/3 full and the gay tank would show full after a days use , with only the two kids using the shower on the trailer.

Suggest you post in the Roo/Shamrock sub-forum, regarding your other issues.

1. Are your bunkend issues condensation or leaks?
2. Tank sensors are notoriously inaccurate for all RVs. Very common issue.
3. Did your kids do navy showers or ran the water like they would at home?

Sent from my SM-T377T using Forest River Forums mobile app

hogie7171 · 06-29-2018, 11:48 AM

[QUOTE=bikendan;1855356]Suggest you post in the Roo/Shamrock sub-forum, regarding your other issues.

1. Are your bunkend issues condensation or leaks?
2. Tank sensors are notoriously inaccurate for all RVs. Very common issue.
3. Did your kids do navy showers or ran the water like they would at home?

Sent from my SM-T377T using Forest River Forums mobile app[/QUOT

I do plan on posting in the roo/shamrock forum once i get some pics together to help describe my situation.

1) The back bunk bedding was damp and the canvas up also damp. I am not sure it it was from condensation or from the rain. The front end bunk was wet the entire length of the bunk where the hinge is. This only seemed to happen after towing in the rain. i did not notice any issues once set up in the rain.

2) I plan on researching how to clean the sensors

3) they did not take Navy showers and ran the water the same as at home. The hot water didnt last to long so they were probably around 5 min showers.

**bikendan** · 06-29-2018, 11:55 AM

Well, if the inside of the canvas was wet, that usually is condensation.
First you need to get a set of Popup Gizmos and Reflectix. That will help if it's condensation, along
cracking a vent and window flap for air movement.
Second you need to use water conservation if you don't want to fill the gray tank fast. Most of us take navy showers. Your kids are using a lot of water, along with running the sinks.

Many hybrid newbies close up the trailer tight as a submarine, cutting out air movement. With moisture exhaling humans inside, condensation will happen.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Forest River Forums mobile app

You may also like: