House batteries charged but not registering?

jaredroy · 06-25-2012, 01:51 PM

My 2006 Sunseeker is having a strange issue. When I plug it in the house batteries charge up and I've tested them that they are full, but the indicator lights inside the RV state that they are empty E.

And the fault lights on the Carbon Monoxide as well as low voltage start beeping.

What would be the cause/fix for getting the house batteries to start "talking" to the internal indicator lights?

The_Stuff · 06-25-2012, 07:21 PM

maybe a fuse or breaker tripped somewhere. think there might be one if you follow the positive cable.

also maybe a ground issue?

jaredroy · 06-27-2012, 11:47 PM

can anyone tell me where the fuses/breakers are for the 12v system? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

**Herk7769** · 06-28-2012, 04:54 AM

Slow down. There is a real issue here with voltage.

1) A fuse or current limiter would cause NO voltage; not low voltage.

2) To turn on the E or "Low" voltage light a minimum of 6 volts is required.

3) 6 volts is also needed to run the alert function on the CO and Propane detectors.

So, either the OP is not correct and the batteries are in fact dead or there are two six volt batteries in a bank and they are connected wrong.

jaredroy · 06-28-2012, 09:25 AM

Thanks Herk.. problem is this just started happening

I've tested both house batteries and they are full. The issue is of consistency. One minute the inside indicators will show 4 bars of power and then if I drive it for a few mins, the bars will show E and the C02 low voltage indicator starts beeping. I'm baffled

VinceU · 06-28-2012, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaredroy

Thanks Herk.. problem is this just started happening

I've tested both house batteries and they are full. The issue is of consistency. One minute the inside indicators will show 4 bars of power and then if I drive it for a few mins, the bars will show E and the C02 low voltage indicator starts beeping. I'm baffled

You should be testing for "full" using a chemical battery liquid tester, in SG. Even #of floating indicatiors is more accurate than a 12 volt test. Batteries when defective will decay rapidly after charge, usually one cell is dead or dying and chem test will pick this up. Good luck.

**Herk7769** · 06-28-2012, 02:16 PM

Don't know HOW many times it needs to be repeated.

When using the "idiot lights" and the "battery" button, 4 bars is NOT FULL.

It is "CHARGING"

C - G - F - L

Stands for CHARGING - GOOD - FAIR - LOW

As long as the voltage of the system is 12.7 volts or higher ( above 100% battery capacity BTW) you will get 4 BARS.

Once it STOPS CHARGING - (voltage dropping BELOW 12.7 volts) you will get 3 BARS - 3 BARS IS "GOOD"

It will stay "GOOD" until the battery drops to "FAIR" (TWO BARS) or about 50% capacity.

When it hits 1 BAR the battery is DEAD and has only enough capacity to keep that little LED lit.

When you have ONE bar it means it is LOW

I believe you might have a loose or corroded wire between the converter and your batteries. It could very well be in the power center itself.

When the wire makes contact with the converter, the idiot lights "see" more than 12.7 volts and you get 4 BARS. When you LOSE contact with the converter you see the REAL battery voltage just over 6 volts (deader than Elvis).

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaredroy

Thanks Herk.. problem is this just started happening

I've tested both house batteries and they are full. The issue is of consistency. One minute the inside indicators will show 4 bars of power and then if I drive it for a few mins, the bars will show E and the C02 low voltage indicator starts beeping. I'm baffled

DDC · 06-28-2012, 02:24 PM

One shorted cell in any of the batteries can cause this condition, you need to check them with a carbon pile amp tester.

**Herk7769** · 06-28-2012, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDC

One shorted cell in any of the batteries can cause this condition, you need to check them with a carbon pile amp tester.

This is an excellent point!

A bad battery will act like a dead short to the converter. This high amp draw will yank the converter off line until the converter cools down. Once it does, it reconnects and the cycle will repeat until smoke comes out.

SALTY · 06-28-2012, 04:49 PM

Thanks herk, i will check mine this weekend i thought the idiot light meant it was fully charged so glad i joined the forum

**Herk7769** · 06-28-2012, 04:59 PM

Since we are talking about the idiot lights and the battery, note that when the battery indicator drops from 3 bars to 2 bars the voltage indicates the battery is at 50% capacity. (see the chart)

For maximum battery life it MUST be recharged at this point.
Allowing a discharge past 50% prior to recharge will shorten useful battery life.

sundawg · 06-28-2012, 09:05 PM

Ok, somewhat related question. I just had the same thing happen this week and brought the battery in to have tested. Was showing 11 volts so bought a new battery.

Brought the new battery home, hooked it up, unplugged shore power and checked the panel
When I pressed the battery button, lights blinked from top to bottom and that was it. Plugged and unplugged shore power again and same thing. Guessing it's residual power stored somewhere?

Any ideas? Fuse?

Next question. Any idea where the fuse panel is on a Greywolf 26bh?

**Herk7769** · 06-28-2012, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sundawg

Ok, somewhat related question. I just had the same thing happen this week and brought the battery in to have tested. Was showing 11 volts so bought a new battery.

Brought the new battery home, hooked it up, unplugged shore power and checked the panel
When I pressed the battery button, lights blinked from top to bottom and that was it. Plugged and unplugged shore power again and same thing. Guessing it's residual power stored somewhere?

Any ideas?

In my post there is a PDF on how to troubleshoot the indicator system

If you have a WFCO converter, here is the manual and how to troubleshoot it.

It sounds like you might have a short circuit in your camper, though.
The flash of 13 volts then disconnect sounds like the converter shutting down to prevent damage. Are you sure you hooked the battery up correctly?

sundawg · 06-29-2012, 10:05 PM

I haven't tried the PDF tips yet, but the battery is hooked up correctly ( red to positive and white to negative) All fuses seem to be okay. Everything works when plugged into shore power

So there must be a short or something wrong between the battery and the camper. Are there fusible links built in somewhere? I have a multimeter so any other tips of what to check would be appreciated.

**Herk7769** · 06-30-2012, 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sundawg

I haven't tried the PDF tips yet, but the battery is hooked up correctly ( red to positive and white to negative) All fuses seem to be okay. Everything works when plugged into shore power

So there must be a short or something wrong between the battery and the camper. Are there fusible links built in somewhere? I have a multimeter so any other tips of what to check would be appreciated.

The multimeter won't do you much good till you find the power center and converter.

puppypappa · 06-30-2012, 11:44 AM

First post, so I hope I can help. Just had a similar problem with my 21RS. I tracked it down to a sole 40amp inline breaker under the frame on drivers side, about 3 feet back from my battery box. It's one of the 2 pole automotive type. The power was getting to the breaker, but wasn't registering as coming out the other side. Replaced that breaker and all is good.
These breakers aren't known to me as having a problem so it was the last thing I checked.

Again, everything worked with shore power, and battery was all charged, but this defective breaker prevented power from the battery charging the rest of the TT. It was a little hard to find, but I traced the power wire under the trailer along the frame, and there was the breaker.

Pup

**Herk7769** · 06-30-2012, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puppypappa

First post, so I hope I can help. Just had a similar problem with my 21RS. I tracked it down to a sole 40amp inline breaker under the frame on drivers side, about 3 feet back from my battery box. It's one of the 2 pole automotive type. The power was getting to the breaker, but wasn't registering as coming out the other side. Replaced that breaker and all is good.
These breakers aren't known to me as having a problem so it was the last thing I checked.

Again, everything worked with shore power, and battery was all charged, but this defective breaker prevented power from the battery charging the rest of the TT. It was a little hard to find, but I traced the power wire under the trailer along the frame, and there was the breaker.

Pup

Pup,

Those breakers have a small reset button on them located on the small end. If you should have this issue again, you can try pressing that reset button with a finger nail.

sundawg · 07-01-2012, 08:15 PM

Thanks pup and herk. That was it! I looked at that a few times but just thought it was connecting the wires together, didn't really notice the black thing on the end. Pushed it and beeeeep, the gas detector turned on and I smiled

Mine was actually located just under the front of the trailer between the wires from the battery and a junction box.

Thanks again!

puppypappa · 07-01-2012, 08:47 PM

Great news.

Herk, I tried resetting mine however it must be really fried. I needed to replace it with a new one.

Glad you got it working

Pup

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