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Old 01-22-2016, 12:37 PM   #11
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I ran a 10/3 to my 50 amp plug (only 20 feet), and put a 30 amp breaker on it. Just use for battery keeping battery charged.
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:57 PM   #12
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emm-dee,
Since you are going to pull it in conduit any way, save yourself some $ and buy the individual wires They will pull much easier than a full USE flat cable. I would go with different color wires Black Hot #1, Red Hot #2, White Neutral, Green Ground. Use stranded wire for ease of pulling and bending and use some liquid dish washing soap ahead of the wire before starting the wire pull. Keep the number of conduit bends to no more than a total of 270 degrees and you should be able to make the pull by hand, else you will need a mechanical pulling assist tool or block & tackle or winch.

I design street lighting systems and power cable installations as a Lead Engineer for the local utility. I've been doing this work for over 35 years and believe me you can pull cable much farther than you think. Good luck on the installation!

Jim Knoch
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:49 PM   #13
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Why do you think you need 50, 30 & 20 amp receptacles? If you want 50 amp in order to run both AC units then just install a 50 amp receptable and save yourself some money. I would think you could get by with #6 -3 w/g. Note you will need 6-3 w/g to meet codes and get both 120V legs. Don't skimp on this! I am an electrical power engineer...
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LLVanB View Post
Why do you think you need 50, 30 & 20 amp receptacles? If you want 50 amp in order to run both AC units then just install a 50 amp receptable and save yourself some money. I would think you could get by with #6 -3 w/g. Note you will need 6-3 w/g to meet codes and get both 120V legs. Don't skimp on this! I am an electrical power engineer...
Don't need the 50 amp at this time but if I decide to get a new RV later it might have a 50 amp setup. The cost only goes up about $35. Since the building I'm putting up is 20 feet wide there will be plenty of room to park the truck next to the trailer and and having the 20 amp receptacle already installed in the box it will be available for stuff like vacuuming the truck, battery charger, etc.
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:10 AM   #15
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Here's a wire size calculator. May help you decide.

Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:52 AM   #16
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Here's a wire size calculator. May help you decide.

Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator
I don't think that link will help to much, the OP is running line voltage, not DC.
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:14 PM   #17
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thanks boondocking, I used it the other night to buy some battery wire but didn't realize it was DC only. Good catch, never mind.
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:07 PM   #18
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usually I do not worry about voltage drop until the distance is 500 foot or more, and if I was doing it for my own personal use then I would do what I wanted to do as long as it was protected, running #6 wire would be OK, as long as I did not go over amperage on the usage end, 60 amps is enough to run all three as long as you use it wisely, and you could also protect is with a 40 0r 50 amp breaker to make sure it is protected, and use a tap to supply all three receptacles, ie: duplex, 30amp, 50amp, that is just for my own usage, of coarse if you ever sold it (the property) you could just remove the duplex and thirty amp and just leave the fifty, or vice-a-versa,,, jmht
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:22 PM   #19
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There are many but I use this one:

Voltage Drop Calculator

Remember the distance is there and back and its 120 vac (or the exact if you know it) not 240.
WW
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:28 PM   #20
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One thing in this thread that people are a little confused about is the 50 amp RV outlet. It is indeed a 240V. There is no such thing as an RV 4 wire 50 amp 120V plug. So, if your RV has a 50 amp service, your RV connects to a 240V outlet. There is no difference between it and say a grounded range plug in your kitchen. When the 240 volt hits your RV's breaker/fuse panel it splits into two phases just like in your home and half your circuits pull off one phase and half pull off the other since they are all 120V. For more info, photos, and diagrams go to: http://www.myrv.us/electric/ and click on the 50 amp link in the upper left.

Now in an outlet like the OP wants to install with a 30 amp and 20 amp plugs as well, they only pull off a single phase. Only the 50 amp outlet will get both phases. The good thing about these CE panels is they come with all three outlets pre-wired so all you have to do is hook up your wire to the main input lugs and it's done.

As to the run, I have 200 feet from my house to my RV pad. I used #6 and have no voltage drop issues. I can run all three ac's at once and not go below 117 volts on either phase. I also would have no issue using 6/2 and a separate neutral as the OP was wanting to do.

One last thing for the OP. If you haven't already ordered the CE box from Zoro, Amazon has a lower priced alternative that is a touch better quality from Siemens. It would save you $37...

http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-TL137U...=siemens+talon
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