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Old 04-13-2014, 11:34 AM   #1
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Inverter?

I have a Surveyor Select SV264. What does the inverter run? Just the fan for the a/c?
I assume all of the lights are 12V and run off the battery. None of the 120V outlets work without shore power so it's not feeding any of them.

Any wiring diagrams around for these units?

Thanks
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:43 AM   #2
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The inverter better be pretty big with alot of battery's if you think it will run your a/c. It only to convert your plugs to 110v. You might have a switch to turn it on, it shouldn't be running when you plug in. They also may not have all outlets on it. Some just have the TV or microwave, an outlet for coffee, refer or something. Did you get a book on it. Most have to be switched on. check either at the unit or look for a remote switch.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:46 AM   #3
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I have a genny for the A/C. I just don't know what the inverter is good for. The instructions are generic so they don't help. The TV doesn't work unless plugged into shore power or on the genny. I see no switches only circuit breakers and all are on.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:47 AM   #4
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Inverter or converter? I don't know of any trailers that come with a factory installed inverter, so there wouldn't be a wiring diagram.

A lot of add-on inverters are setup so that you just plug whatever you want to run directly into the receptical on the inverter.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
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I don't know. That's why I need a wiring diagram or some directions that are worth a darn.
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Old 04-13-2014, 01:21 PM   #6
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I don't know. That's why I need a wiring diagram or some directions that are worth a darn.
Your inverter is not your converter that all your 12 volt is hooked to with the fuse's. that is used to supply 12 volt from the shore power from 110v so you don't need your battery's If you have a multimeter you should have wires from the battery and then 2 wires for the ac on the inverter Those would be connected to outlets. I assume you do not mean the convertor, that's should be located near the floor with a black cover. If you have a ginny the only reason for a inverter would be to run during quite hrs. at a CG. The inverter should be mounted as close to the battery as possible. So it will not have a drop of voltage. What is the brand name on the inverter? What is the brand name on the convertor by the floor somewhere? Should be a WFCO on the outside, that's the converter. Hope it helps if not let me know, I know quite a bit about converters and inverters...
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Old 04-13-2014, 01:25 PM   #7
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Your inverter is not your converter that all your 12 volt is hooked to with the fuse's. that is used to supply 12 volt from the shore power from 110v so you don't need your battery's If you have a multimeter you should have wires from the battery and then 2 wires for the ac on the inverter Those would be connected to outlets. I assume you do not mean the convertor, that's should be located near the floor with a black cover. If you have a ginny the only reason for a inverter would be to run during quite hrs. at a CG. The inverter should be mounted as close to the battery as possible. So it will not have a drop of voltage. What is the brand name on the inverter? What is the brand name on the convertor by the floor somewhere? Should be a WFCO on the outside, that's the converter. Hope it helps if not let me know, I know quite a bit about converters and inverters...
It does say WFCO so I must have a converter. So all it is a battery charger and 12VDC power supply when I am connected to shore power or genny power?

Thanks
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Old 04-13-2014, 01:35 PM   #8
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It does say WFCO so I must have a converter. So all it is a battery charger and 12VDC power supply when I am connected to shore power or genny power?

Thanks
Okay now we are on the same page. You have it right, I didn't read how old your unit is. If you ever need to change that converter out because of fan noise or over heating, Get a progressive to replace it. Progressive has 2 fans and is a true state 4 stage charger. A word of caution to you on the WFCO. You will not drop down to 13.2v or float it will stay at 13.6 and over charge your battery. Keep your eye on the water level monthly add that to your list. Glad we got that taken care of. Have a GREAT CAMPING SEASON......
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Old 04-13-2014, 01:37 PM   #9
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Thanks for the help. I have a 2013 model.

Happy Camping.
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Old 04-13-2014, 02:14 PM   #10
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all RV's have CONVERTERS, but not all RV's have INverters.

usually motorhomes are the only RV's that come with an inverter. everyone else has to add an aftermarket one.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:45 PM   #11
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I just got my first pop up a 1996 Rockwood 1620. It has a power converter , a fridge, heater with thermostat but no ac. The trailer lights work great but the 12v lights won't come on. The battery is dead. Did find a switch DC,AC, & propane. I had in on AC while plugged into 110v. Did not get a lot of documentation
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Old 04-16-2014, 02:17 AM   #12
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It sounds like your converter is bad or it is not turned on, you should have a breaker that has to be turned on. I'm not sure but do you have a 3 way refer? That could be your selector switch for your Refer only. DC<AC>Propane. You are going to have to measure your voltage when plugged in to see if it is getting 110v to the converter and putting out 12v out.. If it is a WFCO converter I'll think I have a wire diagram on how to check but you will need a meter 110v/12v. I'll try to attach it. Sorry it will not let me attach it. If you type in WFCO on google you should be able to get one for trouble shooting. I know Herk has one send him a PM. If he doesn't read this post. Even if your battery is dead your converter should make your 12v lights come on inside if it is turn on, It replaces your battery when plugged into 110v. You can also try the forum library, might be in there.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:56 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by dluton View Post
I just got my first pop up a 1996 Rockwood 1620. It has a power converter , a fridge, heater with thermostat but no ac. The trailer lights work great but the 12v lights won't come on. The battery is dead. Did find a switch DC,AC, & propane. I had in on AC while plugged into 110v. Did not get a lot of documentation
Start with checking the battery condition and whether it can be charged or if it needs replaced.

Pop ups have a galley switch that disconnects 12v lights when pop up is "popped down" that switch sometimes sticks.

Once you have a good charged battery or a new one then some tests can be made to further check your electrical system.

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Old 04-16-2014, 07:17 AM   #14
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So, my 2 copper washed zincs:

Your converter will not charge a completely dead or internally shorted battery.

There is circuitry that prevents the converter from powering the battery charging circuits to prevent a fire. Always remove a dead battery (no lights on the holding tank level system display is a good example - but not the only one - of a battery too dead to charge) before trying to trouble shoot a converter issue.

Once the battery is removed, check the DC output voltage to see if it exceeds 13 volts DC. If so the converter is good. If not, it is bad.

Here are some manuals and a trouble shooting guide for two models of the WFCO converter.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:47 AM   #15
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So, my 2 copper washed zincs:

Your converter will not charge a completely dead or internally shorted battery.

There is circuitry that prevents the converter from powering the battery charging circuits to prevent a fire. Always remove a dead battery (no lights on the holding tank level system display is a good example - but not the only one - of a battery too dead to charge) before trying to trouble shoot a converter issue.

Once the battery is removed, check the DC output voltage to see if it exceeds 13 volts DC. If so the converter is good. If not, it is bad.

Here are some manuals and a trouble shooting guide for two models of the WFCO converter.
Why did I know you have that information? Your nick name should be LM the library man. I'm not surprised with Turbo either, he's not as bad as some people make him out to be......
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:27 AM   #16
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It is important to note that the converter will disconnect itself from the camper completely if a dead/shorted battery is in the system. If your battery has an internal short you may not get any indication other than NO DC power to the camper but the AC outlets work.

It may also trip the AC Circuit breaker that feeds the converter portion of the power center. Check ALL your AC breakers by cycling them to OFF; then back on. A "tripped" breaker may "look" ON; but still be disconnected.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:26 PM   #17
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My background is sailing, WEST Marine is my supplier of choice. The have a service they call The WEST Adviser. Here's the adviser on 12vdc and 120vac. Hope you all find this helpful: DIY Selecting an Inverter or Inverter Charger | West Marine
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