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Old 06-29-2019, 05:38 AM   #1
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Inverter Concern

I have a 1000 watt inverter that is factory installed which only has my residential Samsung refrigerator plugged into it. Despite being plugged into shore power for 8 hours (I unplugged shore power around 4 pm) as well as having the Zamp 480 watt solar panels, my fridge shut down due to the inverter shutting off sometime during the night due to lack of power. How long should my batteries/inverter run when I'm not plugged in? Batteries (two) are less than a year old, factory installed 600 CCA's. Thanks as always.
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:11 AM   #2
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"factory installed 600 CCA's"

CCA is a measure of a starting battery , not a deep cycle battery as required for house service.

Deep cycle batts are measured at the "20 hour rate".

Should be on the label.

"RV Marine" batts are poor at both stating and deep cycle use.

Great if you have a trolling motor and need to start an outboard , but useless for most anything else.
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:31 AM   #3
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Okay. Just went out to check. Batteries are "Mighty Brute" Dual Purpose Marine Starting with a 90 minute reserve. Not big enough? I think batteries are a dealer installed item and not put in by the factory, correct? If you all think batteries are not large enough, I'll try reaching out to the dealer for upgrade (LOL).
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:58 AM   #4
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How long the batteries run depend on how full the fridge is, how big, efficiency, outside temperature, batteries, solar panel size, and how much shade you are in. Plus some others.

To begin you have cheaper boat batteries. Likely you have 80 amps or less of stored juice. (You can only discharge them 50% or they get damaged and hold less). Unfortunately batteries are a key item.

If it is a big fridge then possibly it uses 2-5 amps per hour. Gives you 3-6 hours run time for the fridge only at night. Course if you run anything else in the rv the time is even less.

Sounds like you have a great set up but, cheaped out on batteries! You likely need four six volts or two lithiumís.

The math is simple. p=IV. Watts=amps*voltage.

You need the fridges wattage to find out the amps needed. That is 110 amps. Multiply that times about 14 for dc amps. (Inverters like yours are 80-90% efficient). Get the amps available on the batteries.

The dealer should have explained all this. Residential fridges are tough to boondock with because of the battery issue.

You need a high efficiency fridge and lots of battery capacity. Lithium is a good plan, only expensive.

Most people today prefer the residential fridges. Bigger, and half as expensive. A 13 cu ft rv fridge is $2500. The 21 cu ft models are around $5000.

Most folks never boondock. Always plugged in.
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:59 AM   #5
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Inverter Concern

You donít want dual purpose starting batteries, you want true deep cycle... If were you and planned to do a lot of boon docking, I would consider going with four 6 volt golf car batteries
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Old 06-29-2019, 08:26 AM   #6
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Thanks all. I figured it was the cheaper batteries the dealer installed. They look about the same size I had in my little Honda years ago. I went thru the refrigerator manual and they don't list electrical specifications. No worries, I'll get the largest deep cycle batteries that will fit in the tray. I would go lithium but I hate to spend the money and wreck them due to my negligence (i.e leaving something on and killing them several times. That's the same reason I don't put 4 batteries in the RV, as I have space for them.). I'll go upper mid-range on two 12 volt. I rarely boon dock and I live in the unit at a full hook up RV resort 6 months a year. It's really when I have to leave the unit unplugged as we clean and pack up for a few trips a year that I need the inverter. Thank you all again for the tips.
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Old 06-29-2019, 11:40 AM   #7
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Bang for the buc.

Costco gc2 batteries. 230 amps, $186 for both. I have four.

Six volts are more durable. Tolerate neglect better.
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Old 06-29-2019, 12:11 PM   #8
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Sams or Batteries+Bulbs both probably have the DURACELL GC2 golf cart/rv battery you need, and both around $99 each....

you don't want CCA 'starting' batteries - that is for 'starting' vehicles, not for 'running' refrigerators and inverters : )

If you 'dealer' knows anything about RVs, and apparently they don't, 'normal' vehicle or boat batteries don't go in RVs.
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Old 06-29-2019, 03:45 PM   #9
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Sams or Batteries+Bulbs both probably have the DURACELL GC2 golf cart/rv battery you need, and both around $99 each....

you don't want CCA 'starting' batteries - that is for 'starting' vehicles, not for 'running' refrigerators and inverters : )

If you 'dealer' knows anything about RVs, and apparently they don't, 'normal' vehicle or boat batteries don't go in RVs.

If by "Boat" you mean "Marine", they actually do work fairly well in RV's as long as some common sense is applied.

First make sure that the battery bank is large enough to run the residential refrigerator for the hours it won't be possible to use a generator to charge. This usually is a period every day starting at 9-10 PM to 9-10 AM (times vary by location).

Second, the bank should be large enough to accomplish the above without going below 50% state of charge.

Lastly, make sure to FULLY recharge the batteries (often as long as 10-12 hours depending on charger and battery bank size) before starting the next cycle.

Yes, Golf Cart batteries (GC-2's) hold more energy (per pair) than a single Marine Deep Cycle battery but you still need to follow the above "rules".

Residential refrigerators are great if you have electric hookup but for boondocking or extended times between "plug ins", not so much. Just be prepared for long generator runs or install a good solar system to keep up with the drain.
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Old 06-30-2019, 05:14 AM   #10
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New batteries after this week's trip. As always, thanks all.
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