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Old 05-10-2017, 08:51 AM   #21
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Well the inverter itself came with 3' of 2awg and a fuse. I turn off my converter then plug the shore power into the inverter. It's a Krieger KR1500. I think the 2000w comes with 2awg as well.
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Old 05-10-2017, 09:16 AM   #22
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Well the inverter itself came with 3' of 2awg and a fuse. I turn off my converter then plug the shore power into the inverter. It's a Krieger KR1500. I think the 2000w comes with 2awg as well.
Well, the #2 is probably OK, seeing that you never top out for that long. They probably did the calculation for 1500 watts with no inverter efficiency. Besides its only undersized by 2 amps anyway.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:18 PM   #23
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I guess as we age our memories fade. You guys were total right. I think I am ok unless you see something I don't.
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Old 05-11-2017, 04:11 PM   #24
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it's wired properly.....
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:25 PM   #25
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Not crazy about the long run connecting the two batteries, but in that battery box, you really don't have much choice in the length. You could reduce the resistance between the batteries with an even thicker (and hopefully a tad shorter) cable, but ...

They are wired exactly right.
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:40 PM   #26
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It looks like if you flip those batteries around in the box, you could make a very short run between them...
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:52 PM   #27
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You are right, rotating the left (in the photo) battery 180 degrees (provided the camper's ground wire is long enough), you could use a MUCH shorter battery interconnect cable (about 1/2 as long).
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:33 PM   #28
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You guys make good points. I could flip the batteries and make a much shorter interconnect. The ground wire to the frame actually terminates on the right side of the right battery and the + trailer wire has plenty of slack. Is it worth it to do that? Will I gain much?
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Old 05-12-2017, 04:51 AM   #29
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You will gain nothing electrical wise, maybe visually but it is only you that looks at it....
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:38 AM   #30
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You will gain nothing electrical wise, maybe visually but it is only you that looks at it....
Lowering the battery pair resistance will remove an unnecessary drain on the battery stack. While you can't do anything for the battery's internal resistance, lowering the interconnecting resistance (especially with the high drain rates of an inverter), will because it becomes part of the internal resistance of the stack.

No sense leaving a light on for no reason. While the draw may be small, it is not zero.

This article on battery stack wiring makes the case for short, LARGE diameter, and in the case of 12 volt (or more than 2 6 volt) should be of equal length interconnecting wires.

Note, the converter supply and frame ground wires should be sized for the maximum current possible from the converter adjusted for length of run. The ground-frame connection should be checked regularly for corrosion.
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:53 AM   #31
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You will gain nothing electrical wise, maybe visually but it is only you that looks at it....
I agree... I'd like to see the meter that would measure the resistance difference (of the cable in the photo) by shortening it a foot.
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:58 AM   #32
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For all of you 'closet electricians'.........

Most towns have a TSC (Tractor Supply) and every Tractor Supply sells stranded, neoprene sheathed welding cable (heavy and light gauge as well as solid copper crimp on lugs. The cable is sold by the foot. On the subject of connectors, there is the proper way to crimp a connector and the wrong way and the right way is a crimp tool, not a vise. Finally, a crimp connection is the correct way to secure a stranded cable to a lug. Myself, I tin the end and then crimp.

Your mileage may vary, however, crimped on connections are the NEC approved method for securing cables in a vibration situation, your battery box.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:50 AM   #33
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I agree... I'd like to see the meter that would measure the resistance difference (of the cable in the photo) by shortening it a foot.
Internal battery resistance is why a fully charged battery sitting on a shelf will "self discharge" over time. How the battery is manufactured determines the internal resistance (battery plate size and construction). While all lead acid batteries are similar (they use the same chemical reaction to generate electrons), they vary by manufacturer in AH capacity in the same size box.

There is a reason that is true.

Small changes in resistance make an impact based on current draw over the useful life of the battery's charge.

The wires used to inter connect your batteries become part of the parasite internal resistance of the battery stack. The smaller diameter/longer the wire, the more power is lost in transmission.

I really don't know how to make it clearer than that; so I will let the engineers and physicists in the audience take a swing at it.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:26 AM   #34
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Herk7769...X2

My 335DS came with 4 12 volt batteries...wired in the same totally balanced mode.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:35 AM   #35
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Herk7769...X2

My 335DS came with 4 12 volt batteries...wired in the same totally balanced mode.
4 - 12 volt batteries will look like this:

Again, not crazy about the "Curly Qs" but they were obviously pre-made equal length cables.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:53 AM   #36
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And he blinded us with science......
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:56 AM   #37
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Close, but with this modification there are totally balanced loads. All wires are the same length in practice. Each battery has the same length of feed to the main load.
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Old 05-12-2017, 10:32 AM   #38
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Close, but with this modification there are totally balanced loads. All wires are the same length in practice. Each battery has the same length of feed to the main load.
Nice that you have a 2x2 box to work with.
I think an inline box would work ok as shown.
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:00 AM   #39
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For all of you 'closet electricians'.........

Most towns have a TSC (Tractor Supply) and every Tractor Supply sells stranded, neoprene sheathed welding cable (heavy and light gauge as well as solid copper crimp on lugs. The cable is sold by the foot. On the subject of connectors, there is the proper way to crimp a connector and the wrong way and the right way is a crimp tool, not a vise. Finally, a crimp connection is the correct way to secure a stranded cable to a lug. Myself, I tin the end and then crimp.

Your mileage may vary, however, crimped on connections are the NEC approved method for securing cables in a vibration situation, your battery box.

Goodto hear. Here in urban Southern California Tractor Supply is less common than in ag areas, but the Interstate Battery Stores offer the same, but will fabricate the cables (ie crimp the ends on) for you. Don't make the mistake of buying at a Home Depot or Lowes unless you understand that their construction grade wire is STIFF----less ply able than good battery cables and welding cable, which is usually best.
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