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Old 02-26-2014, 04:48 PM   #31
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The only way that the battery life is shortened is if the charge was below 50%.
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Old 02-26-2014, 05:41 PM   #32
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Get a cheap multimeter before you do out in the spring. Check the voltage before you do anything else, and if it is at or above 12.5 or so, you should be able to just use it. If it is flat dead 0.0 volts, then it may and probably is BAD. Much below 12.5, and you probably want to remove it and charge it gently and see if it will recover.

Just a thought.

EVERY RV'er should have a voltmeter and know how to use it. A battery monitor is a good idea also if you really want to maintain you batteries in top shape. A fluke loop volt/ammeter is really cool to, but a bit pricey.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:00 PM   #33
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Herk has a lot of experience and is a good resource which we appreciate. I can only say 'Herk you should have read this forum before you tried all that stuff
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:24 PM   #34
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The worst outcome is admitting the error and buying a new battery. Life's too short to worry about it..unless you can go back in time in your delorean.

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Old 02-26-2014, 08:34 PM   #35
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I left my old battery in one year because I was replacing it in the spring. I disconnected it and left it. when I went to pick up the trailer, just for the heck of it I hooked up the old battery and it was fully charged, or at least enough to raise and lower the jack.

I wouldn`t worry. they are designed to be drawn way down, hence the name "deep cycle".
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:00 PM   #36
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So, as an update to this. I finally went out to the storage tonight and pulled the battery. According to my cheapo analog multi meter it's still got 12-13V. (Note: I really need to get a digital one)

So I've pulled it and brought it home to gently warm up in the garage. I'll let you know how it goes after I get it load tested.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:26 PM   #37
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Heh...yeah...even a cheap digital meter will prove a lot more useful than an analog. Though being able to trace AMPS in both DC and AC lines is a major plus as well and if you're gonna invest $20 bucks in a digital meter...you might consider getting one that will do everything...for under 45 bucks like this:
Amazon.com: MASTECH MS2108A 400 AC DC Current Clamp Meter: Industrial & Scientific

Just as an aside...there seems to be a myth that cold weather discharges batteries faster and kills them. The SELF discharge rate in 75 degrees is about 4 times greater than it is at 25 degrees. Batteries die in the winter because they freeze due to low charge levels & parasitic loads ... not because of self discharge rate compared to summer.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:57 AM   #38
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Ok, so an update on this thread. After my last trip out, the batteries dead. I haven't troubleshot the cause yet, but battery voltage has now dropped to ~8v. I've checked the resetable CB, the mainline fuses, etc... and they all check out. Still, battery doesn't seem to be getting any charge from either the converter or when hooked up to the TV.

I haven't actually checked the output of the converter yet, as the TT's sitting in storage, but I will on our next trip out. My gut though tells me the converter is fine. All my 12V devices have power when plugged in, and don't when not so that seems to indicate the converter is the one supplying the 12V.

As I'd rather wait to get a new battery in the US, where most things are significantly cheaper, I'll be just going without for my next camping trip. Question is, should I pull the existing battery and cap the leads, or is it harmless to leave it connected, even though it's not charging?
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:40 PM   #39
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Ok, so an update on this thread. After my last trip out, the batteries dead. I haven't troubleshot the cause yet, but battery voltage has now dropped to ~8v. I've checked the resetable CB, the mainline fuses, etc... and they all check out. Still, battery doesn't seem to be getting any charge from either the converter or when hooked up to the TV.

I haven't actually checked the output of the converter yet, as the TT's sitting in storage, but I will on our next trip out. My gut though tells me the converter is fine. All my 12V devices have power when plugged in, and don't when not so that seems to indicate the converter is the one supplying the 12V.

As I'd rather wait to get a new battery in the US, where most things are significantly cheaper, I'll be just going without for my next camping trip. Question is, should I pull the existing battery and cap the leads, or is it harmless to leave it connected, even though it's not charging?
Even if your batteries are dead...and it is VERY likely they are toast... you still are getting current through them to all your other devices that are attached to them. As long as you don't have any DEFORMATION of the battery casing ...i.e. bulges...and you have water in the cells...just hurry home as is and buy new ones. This assumes you have a LOT of confidence in your engine battery since you have no backup plan now if that fails.
Good luck!
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:30 PM   #40
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Even if your batteries are dead...and it is VERY likely they are toast... you still are getting current through them to all your other devices that are attached to them. As long as you don't have any DEFORMATION of the battery casing ...i.e. bulges...and you have water in the cells...just hurry home as is and buy new ones. This assumes you have a LOT of confidence in your engine battery since you have no backup plan now if that fails.
Good luck!
Thanks, that's kind of what I was thinking too. No deformations and since it's a sealed unit, I can't check the water level, but being sealed, the water should be there. It couldn't have escaped.

I was more worried this might indicate a short like Herk mentioned in post #20. In that case, I wouldn't want to blow anything up. But as we're leaving first thing tomorrow morning, I know I won't have time to comparison shop for a decent battery so I'm hoping to make it through this weekend and then I'll be able to get a good battery before (or during) my next subsequent trip.
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