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Old 06-17-2014, 08:13 PM   #51
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Kaadk...may I suggest you get yourself a $10 buck digital voltmeter at home depot or Amazon. then you can use the probes to test at the various points in your chains of cables and devices to see exactly what you are getting and when. i.e. check the voltage at the back of the converter...then check the voltage at the battery cable ends...then on the battery terminals...then at the 7 pin connection with the TV running for voltage...then check at the ends of those trailer connections to see if you have the same voltage. THAT will give you confidence in what is working and what is not.
As to the disconnect switch...you need a clamp meter to see if there is a parasitic drain after you hit disconnect. That would set you back another 40 bucks more than the multimeter...worth it IMO.

Since you "never boondock" ...I wouldn't worry too much about the battery once you know everything else is working and there are no drains since it will never be powering anything alone.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:22 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
Since you "never boondock" ...I wouldn't worry too much about the battery once you know everything else is working and there are no drains since it will never be powering anything alone.
You will still need a battery for the breakaway circuit. We need to track down the "open" between the converter and the battery.

There are two current limiters between the converter and the battery. One AT the battery and one at the metal umbilical junction box.

Pres on the short side and feel for a "button" and see if it can be pressed in; also examine the current limiter for corrosion and damage.

Here are some photos of what to look for.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:38 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
You will still need a battery for the breakaway circuit. We need to track down the "open" between the converter and the battery.

There are two current limiters between the converter and the battery. One AT the battery and one at the metal umbilical junction box.

Pres on the short side and feel for a "button" and see if it can be pressed in; also examine the current limiter for corrosion and damage.

Here are some photos of what to look for.

I only remember finding one. I'll check again this weekend when I pick the trailer back up.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:47 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
Kaadk...may I suggest you get yourself a $10 buck digital voltmeter at home depot or Amazon. then you can use the probes to test at the various points in your chains of cables and devices to see exactly what you are getting and when. i.e. check the voltage at the back of the converter...then check the voltage at the battery cable ends...then on the battery terminals...then at the 7 pin connection with the TV running for voltage...then check at the ends of those trailer connections to see if you have the same voltage. THAT will give you confidence in what is working and what is not.
As to the disconnect switch...you need a clamp meter to see if there is a parasitic drain after you hit disconnect. That would set you back another 40 bucks more than the multimeter...worth it IMO.

Since you "never boondock" ...I wouldn't worry too much about the battery once you know everything else is working and there are no drains since it will never be powering anything alone.

I did pick up a new DMM around the time I pulled the battery, now to just put it to more use than checking the battery's voltage.
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