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Old 02-26-2016, 09:00 AM   #21
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My 2 zincs:

1) The battery panel ...by a lower percentage than you want when next check the display.
Using the 2nd battery monitor on the Trimetric is one way to go with solar if you already have a solar charge controller. If not, TriMetric makes an SC-2030 companion solar controller that communicates with the TriMetric and adds not only solar production data to the display, but also uses the Trimetric for SOC and remote voltage sensing resulting in a really advanced and reliable solar addition.
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Old 02-26-2016, 09:02 AM   #22
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Using the 2nd battery monitor on the Trimetric is one way to go with solar if you already have a solar charge controller. If not, TriMetric makes an SC-2030 companion solar controller that communicates with the TriMetric and adds not only solar production data to the display, but also uses the Trimetric for SOC and remote voltage sensing resulting in a really advanced and reliable solar addition.
Thanks for the tip! - Though The Solar Controller only works with the new TM-2030RV not my older 2025.

Oh, and I need to change that battery graphic. The wires going to the converter in that photo do not need to be equal length; just the "interconnecting" battery cables. The distance (electrically speaking) from the converter attachment point to the ground attachment point must be equal "through" the batteries for the resistance "through" the batteries to be equal.

That means equal length AND diameter.

This is the edited graphic ...
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Old 02-26-2016, 09:09 AM   #23
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We camped for 7 years using large Lance truck campers. Each had a single Gp 31 battery. We dry camped the whole summer from about early June to end Oct out west in the mts. and then returned to Fla. On the second year we bought a Honda 1000 inverter generator and used an external 35amp smart charger. At the same time I installed a Xantrex Link 10 battery monitor so I could really know how many amp-hours we had used running lights, frig, and furnace.
This setup worked very well for us. We had to run the furnace most mornings but usually ran the gen for about 2-3 hrs every second or third day depending what the battery monitor said.
A really big improvement came on the second Lance when I changed out the MagnaTek converter/charger with a Progressive Dynamics PD9145A with the charge wizard. With this I could plug directly into the Honda without the external charger and deliver 35-40amps into the battery on startup depending on altitude. Even though the second Lance had a generator it ran on propane so we used the Honda for batt charging since we already owned it. But it was nice in foul weather to just start the big genset from inside.
So my advice would be to monitor your power use first and see what you really need. I would not upgrade batteries without replacing the WFCO with a good unit. It will kill your batteries in a couple of years if plugged into shore power a lot.
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Old 02-26-2016, 09:18 AM   #24
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As an aside, I have two OEM Deka DC-24 batteries that I put in the camper the day we took possession in June 2009.

We are plugged into the converter 24/7 while in storage

We spent two winters boondocking in Key West (Sigsbee Key) (a total of more than 180 days) and lots of off grid camping since (though not so much any more - sigh).

Been waiting for these to die so I could upgrade them, but they refuse. Properly cared for you can get many years out of a pair of even cheap batteries.

Most likely we will upgrade the camper before the batteries now
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:34 PM   #25
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I've got a small Mini Lite that currently has a single group 24 marine/deep cycle battery in it. Its got CA/CCA rating so I know it's not a true deep cycle. It claims 85AH on the label.

I'm in need of a new battery and I was looking at the Trojan SCS150. Now I'm wondering if just adding one of those is going to be quite enough? We'll sometimes boondock for 7 days. We do have a Honda EU2000 and we're pretty light on power use I'd say but there are some nights we need to run the furnace some. Should I be looking at adding another battery or will my generator keep the charge up with the single battery? I'd really hate to have to generate for hours on end to bring the battery to a full charge. Thanks.
I always camp with 2. We are usually only out 4 days. Up until now, (this coming camping season in Colorado) we had no generator. However, our 2016 FR, 26VFKS has 2 slides, an electric awning, and electric tongue jack. (Yeah I am lazy in my advancing years). Not to mention the heater blower, and CD/Radio, any vampire voltage too. . So with all that need for 'lectricty, I modified the battery mounting area to accommodate 2 group 24 deep cycle batteries. So hopefully I won't need the generator too much. Just for supplemental use.
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:36 PM   #26
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So yours came with only one battery? What batteries did you buy?
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:45 PM   #27
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So yours came with only one battery? What batteries did you buy?
Our TT only came with one from the dealer. I had a not so old one from Walmart that I took off our unit we sold last summer. Don't remember the brand names though.
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:52 PM   #28
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We dry camp with 2 Trojan T-105 6 volt batteries and 2 100 watt Renogy solar panels. A Trimetric battery monitor and its companion SC-2030 charge controller keep the batteries charged. We have never come close to running out of electricity with this setup. There has been a lot of good info posted on this thread. Whatever set up you go with don't forget to use appropriate size cables. Electricity is just like water: the bigger the wire (pipe) diameter the more current (water flow) you can push through it.
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Old 02-26-2016, 02:08 PM   #29
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My Group 24 goes dead in the driveway in 2 days from just the Propane Detector and Radio when turned off.....
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Old 02-26-2016, 02:15 PM   #30
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We dry camp with 2 Trojan T-105 6 volt batteries and 2 100 watt Renogy solar panels. A Trimetric battery monitor and its companion SC-2030 charge controller keep the batteries charged. We have never come close to running out of electricity with this setup. There has been a lot of good info posted on this thread. Whatever set up you go with don't forget to use appropriate size cables. Electricity is just like water: the bigger the wire (pipe) diameter the more current (water flow) you can push through it.
Thanks for the solar info!

What is considered a good size wire? My battery is on the tongue and the converter is all the way at the rear. That's probably not an ideal setup to begin with.
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