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Old 05-30-2012, 02:15 PM   #21
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Doesn't look like you have room to put it where I mounted mine. I would try behind the tanks using a piece of sheet metal bent into a bracket shape.
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Old 05-30-2012, 02:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MilCop4523 View Post
Ok lets attempt this again....
I purchased the Blue Sea 9001e e-Series Battery Switch Selector locally - just under 58 bucks taxes included.
Where to put it?
There is no sturdy brace under the propane tanks like some units.
The only place I can find for fitment is at the location marked in red (sorry for anyone colour blind I didn't think of the colour before it was marked) - other than that I can get a piece of Aluminum plating and attach to to the underside of the tank pan (extinguish smokes, remove propane tanks second and drill third - right?)
I have seen them installed on the outside of the frame. A guy I met likes to be able to see his so he can tell easily if its battery 1 or 2, both or off. His was on the other side of his frame so he could see it from the "door side" of his trailer.

If you don't like the outside, what about inside the frame?

I drew blue boxes on your picture for what I mean.
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Old 05-30-2012, 02:27 PM   #23
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I'll look at the places tonight if I get a chance. Thanks for the suggestions
I thought of the inside rail.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:49 PM   #24
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I put mine on the thin pan below. Why does if have to be some strong piece of material? it's not heavy or load bearing. I like it on the propane plate because it's out of the weather.
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:18 PM   #25
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mine is mounted on the thin piece of metal that is vertical just under the propane tanks like stated above. I used teflon nuts so the nuts would not back off with out assistance
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:51 AM   #26
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Got'er DONE!
4th mod/repair to the trailer.

In line invertor protector - 1st,
RVQ - 2nd
Grey water drain from the Galley - 3rd
and now this.

I didn't want to drill into the frame if possible so I went to the salvage dealer Saturday (after getting almost home) and picked up some
1 1/2 alunimum square tubing to redo my braces on the air deflector
and a 6 by 6 piece of same for the switch.

Got home and started to assess the job.
Removed the 30 lb'ers
Removed the electrical and gas lines to a safer location.
Got the 18 volt drill
safety glasses
clamps and measuring tape.

All set.
Except for a scribe. where did the scribe go. There's never a scribe around when you need one (wait thats a cop - sorry wrong blog)
Marker located.

Now in orer to center the 6 inch bracket on the battery rail take the 13 inches divided by 3 to center the 6 inch plate. Thats 2.5 on the left side, and 7 on the right side correct? That didn't seem right.
Shoot for center mass and line up the 6 inch plate in the center.

Math never was my strong point - I only needed to remember how many rounds went into the Sig 226 and that a man with a knife at 21 feet could out run my drawing the firearm from my holster and getting a round on target.

Now I have to get the connecting lines and hook it all together.

And I have to find a loop for the propane line to bet bolted to the edge to stop the plate from rubbing through. I might have one on the old Honda motor cycle in the barn. Just gotta sneak past the 30 lb racoon and the 2 skunks to unhook it.
That may be repair mod no. 5
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:12 AM   #27
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MilCop - nice clean install
the only issue I would think with the way you mounted it is that water and rain can now pentrate the switch especially when you pull the center switch out - even though it says it is waterproof.

Here is the one I just ordered and will be switching out my single switch
P/N 6007200 - M Series Battery Switch Selector 4 postion
m-Series Battery Switch, Selector 4 Position - PN 6007200 - Blue Sea Systems

it is similar to the one you installed except mine is black and it has a back cover to keep the wires from being shorted out against the frame in case it is ever smashed
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:19 AM   #28
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I keep reading posts about the battery disconnect switch modification and now interested.... I currently just have 1 battery on my MiniLite TT (small box).
  1. What disconnect switch would you recommend for someone who has 1 battery but may upgrade to 2 someday?
  2. How hard is the electrical installation? Is it just the outside battery cables plus mounting?
  3. What circumstances would I want to add a 2nd batterry? Not "currently" boondocking. Still a benefit?
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:09 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by sherdep View Post
MilCop - nice clean install
the only issue I would think with the way you mounted it is that water and rain can now pentrate the switch especially when you pull the center switch out - even though it says it is waterproof.

it is similar to the one you installed except mine is black and it has a back cover to keep the wires from being shorted out against the frame in case it is ever smashed
Thanks. Now I have to go looking in the garage tonight for something I can make use of as a cover. Since I think I have just about everything everyone else would have tossed out in decades gone by, I suspect it will be an easy find. I just have to remember where the things may be.

The new unit looks like an upgraded model and most likely woudl protect the wires as you have considered - most likely from an accidential bump ie. kids or adults hitting it. But anything bigger than that smashing it, I'll see everyone in heaven because the propane tanks will send me off like a rocket.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by FreedomTracker View Post
I keep reading posts about the battery disconnect switch modification and now interested.... I currently just have 1 battery on my MiniLite TT (small box).
  1. What disconnect switch would you recommend for someone who has 1 battery but may upgrade to 2 someday?
  2. How hard is the electrical installation? Is it just the outside battery cables plus mounting?
  3. What circumstances would I want to add a 2nd batterry? Not "currently" boondocking. Still a benefit?
1. You can buy an "on-off" model such as the Blue Sea 6006m or one that allows you to select battery bank 1 or battery bank 2, or 1+2. If you know you will add a second 12-volt, than buy the Blue Sea 9001e or one like it.

2. Easy. You will need 4/0 AWG cable per each battery terminal in addition to the disconnect. The position on the trailer can complicate matters depending where you install it. But generally pretty straightforward install.

3. Its all about capacity and your power usage. You don't need a second battery if you are always on shore power. I turn the question around to you, "why do you think you need a second battery?"
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Old 06-07-2012, 05:17 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreedomTracker View Post
I keep reading posts about the battery disconnect switch modification and now interested.... I currently just have 1 battery on my MiniLite TT (small box).
  1. What disconnect switch would you recommend for someone who has 1 battery but may upgrade to 2 someday?
  2. How hard is the electrical installation? Is it just the outside battery cables plus mounting?
  3. What circumstances would I want to add a 2nd batterry? Not "currently" boondocking. Still a benefit?
I will be getting rid of my single battery shut off (in red) as soon as I install my new dual battery selector (in Black) that just came UPS today. It is used but well taken care of - I would probably let it go for like $25 if you are intrested
Forgot to mention what kind it was - Blue Seas M Series P/N 6006 - it is a red single On / Off Switch

I upgraded to 2 batteries just to have the extra capacity if I ever want to boon dock or if the 110 side goes out I still have the 12v side to keep me lit or the fridge on for extended periods.
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:28 PM   #32
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Just finished adding a battery cut off switch today. Went to West Marine locally and compared all the switches. I happened to notice the one I picked on a lower rack and liked the smaller size. Plenty of capacity and nice compact size. I really wanted something I could mount in the battery box. It fit perfect. If I go to two batteries sometime I'll just add another switch. Pics here. One with the key and with key removed. I found a cap that fits the top snug to keep water out. Just didn't have it on.
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:26 PM   #33
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Here is the addidtion of the new switch that allows me to switch between batteries instead of one switch for both batteries
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:27 PM   #34
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and more pictures
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:33 AM   #35
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Ok, dumb question. Why do I need a battery cut off switch? I have four 12 volt Deep Cycles...
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:58 AM   #36
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Ok, dumb question. Why do I need a battery cut off switch? I have four 12 volt Deep Cycles...
They help prevent draining of your battery while in storage.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:03 AM   #37
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Just finished adding a battery cut off switch today. Went to West Marine locally and compared all the switches. I happened to notice the one I picked on a lower rack and liked the smaller size. Plenty of capacity and nice compact size. I really wanted something I could mount in the battery box. It fit perfect. If I go to two batteries sometime I'll just add another switch. Pics here. One with the key and with key removed. I found a cap that fits the top snug to keep water out. Just didn't have it on.
I hope you have better luck than I did. I installed that type shutoff on my last TT and it lasted 1 1/2 seasons before it started being intermittent. I'd have to wiggle the key to try and get it to connect. I finally removed it and went without until I bought my new TT.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:05 AM   #38
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Ok, dumb question. Why do I need a battery cut off switch? I have four 12 volt Deep Cycles...
Another is to remove power completely and quickly when working on the camper's electrical system.

Another is so you can hook up an external automotive charger to "more quickly" recharge your bank. This requires careful watching of the batteries to prevent over charging.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:34 AM   #39
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Ok, dumb question. Why do I need a battery cut off switch? I have four 12 volt Deep Cycles...
You don't need a battery disconnect. It is simplest to just wire them in parallel. In general, a disconnect allows control over charging or discharging of the batteries. Some common reasons to use a disconnect on a trailer with 12-volt batteries in parallel are:

Mostly ease of disconnect during storage over long periods or whenever the trailer is not in use.

The ability to isolate banks (two banks of 2-12volt batteries each in your case). You can use one bank if desired and hold the second in reserve. This is an option some people like to have - basically turning their 400Ah bank into two-200Ah banks. They can draw one bank down to 50% SOC and then conveniently switch to the reserve bank.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:43 PM   #40
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ok so I've got the second battery beside the first battery. the
manual shows positive to battery one goes to post 1 on the switch
postiive to battery 2 goes to post 2 on the switch

since I don't have a starter on the TT that I know of does post 3 run the black which is the original black line to the original battey

Herk HELP!!!!
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