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Old 06-12-2012, 06:20 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by MilCop4523 View Post
ok so I've got the second battery beside the first battery. the
manual shows positive to battery one goes to post 1 on the switch
positive to battery 2 goes to post 2 on the switch

since I don't have a starter on the TT that I know of does post 3 run the black which is the original black line to the original battery

Herk HELP!!!!
OK without a picture of your switch, I am going to try and explain with my 2 battery switch what is going on.


As you look at my switch (with 3 post terminals); the one at 9 o'clock is the positive to battery one; the one at 6 o'clock goes to the positive on battery two; the one at 12 o'clock is the feed to my inverter and is on the "COMMON" located at 3 o'clock as is the power to the camper coming out of the switch at 3 o'clock.

The inverter has its own fuse seperate from the red fuse that provides power to the camper through the converter's power distribution panel.

If you treat the "bank" as one battery the connections should be hooked up like the clips showing the batteries.

The White (in my case) wire (that you see a loop of in the photo) goes to the frame of the trailer and is connected to the BLACK battery wire connected to the negative of both batteries. (by way of my monitor's shunt.)
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:01 AM   #42
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Thanks Herk my switch is on page 3 of this very thread at the bottom. You had posted the connections instructions a while back (thats why I knew you could straighten me out...)

If I have another question I'll PM you if thats ok.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:12 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by MilCop4523 View Post
Thanks Herk my switch is on page 3 of this very thread at the bottom. You had posted the connections instructions a while back (thats why I knew you could straighten me out...)

If I have another question I'll PM you if thats ok.

FYI - Post numbers work much better than page numbers to find stuff.
My PC is set to view more posts per page than yours.
I only have 2 pages.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:16 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
FYI - Post numbers work much better than page numbers to find stuff.
My PC is set to view more posts per page than yours.
I only have 2 pages.

Post 26. I need bigger font to see. Too many written tickets and court briefs have effected my eyes.

Same switch as yours
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:31 AM   #45
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Post 26. I need bigger font to see. Too many written tickets and court briefs have effected my eyes.

Same switch as yours
Page one for me...
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:55 AM   #46
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A couple of questions for Lou or some of you.
1. What is the advantage of drawing off of one battery instead of two?
2. If I draw off of one until it's exhausted and then switch to the other and use it until it is exhausted, will I get the same amount of energy as I would if they would have both been connected in parallel to start with?
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:22 AM   #47
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A couple of questions for Lou or some of you.
1. What is the advantage of drawing off of one battery instead of two?
2. If I draw off of one until it's exhausted and then switch to the other and use it until it is exhausted, will I get the same amount of energy as I would if they would have both been connected in parallel to start with?
I guess this is a "philosophy" issue so I will preface my answer with a big giant "In My Opinion" ...

It all has to do with YOUR battery life.

Deep cycle batteries are designed from the "Git Go" with a number of useful "cycles" in mind. A cycle is a full charge to 10.5 volt (dead) discharge. Manufacturers use 500 - 1200 cycles for that "number." Cheaper DP or JPJ (Just plain Junk) batteries are at the lower end of that scale and higher quality batteries at the upper.

The "useful life" is defined as when the "stated capacity" is reduced to 80 percent. So a "used up" 70AH battery will only deliver 56AH when it should be replaced IAW the manufacturer's design parameters.

You may still get more than the designed number of cycles even as the battery ages and you might be happy with the performance even though it won't last very long on its own past that number, and most will get disgusted with its performance when it is about 2000 cycles (~60 percent of original capacity or 45AH in the example (my OEM battery).

Worse yet, as the battery ages, it's internal resistance increases to almost double its original factor. This means as the battery ages it will "self discharge" twice as fast as a new one even with a cut out switch.

Battery Life and How To Improve It

If you use the "individual battery till dead then switch; method of battery management, you will get what the manufacturer designed; a battery "good for about 4-5 years before it needs replacement.

The main advantage with this method is that you can use two completely different batteries. "twinning" them does not matter. When one no longer works like you want you just need to replace the bad one.


If on the other hand you use the "paired" method of "bank" battery management, you must start with two new identical batteries and wire them so that the total resistance from the charge/discharge source is as identical as you can make it, so current flow in and out of both batteries is the same.

With bank management you can deliver the same AH to the rig, but it is "shared" between the two batteries. You can then manage the batteries better by recharging them together at a much higher state of charge.

By recharging at 80% discharged instead of dead (for example) you over triple the designed battery life.

The main disadvantage is that when it DOES hit that "magic number" both batteries must be replaced as a set.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:58 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769

The main advantage with this method is that you can use two completely different batteries. "twinning" them does not matter. When one no longer works like you want you just need to replace the bad one.

With bank management you can deliver the same AH to the rig, but it is "shared" between the two batteries. You can then manage the batteries better by recharging them together at a much higher state of charge. .
Herk can the 8 gauge wire be used if its 600 volt capacity? Or do I need 4 gauge wire?
As well there are currently just the two wires going to he original single battery on our trailer.

I've attached a pic of he back side of the same unit you are using. The common on the switch attaches to where? F1 And F 2 small posts are not wired. Correct
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:07 PM   #49
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Herk can the 8 gauge wire be used if its 600 volt capacity? Or do I need 4 gauge wire?
As well there are currently just the two wires going to he original single battery on our trailer.

I've attached a pic of he back side of the same unit you are using. The common on the switch attaches to where? F1 And F 2 small posts are not wired. Correct
My trailer has 8 gauge going to the panel
I ran 6 gauge wire from battery to switch

Common - will be the trailer side +
post 1 is + on battery 1
Post 2 is + on battery 2
grounds are tied together on the batteries
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:24 PM   #50
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What Matt said.

Wire Capacity Chart

The size wire you use depends on the length of the run and the anticipated current to be handled.

8 wire is good for 150 amps DC. If you need to carry more than that your should go to 6 wire.
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