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Old 07-27-2016, 03:53 PM   #21
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They said it is wired for 30amps. There have been times when I was showing between 15 and 30 amps. So I'm guessing if it was only 15amps, and I was using more than that, the fuse would have blown?

If I recall when I was a kid........do fuses blow = circuit breaker trips?
I've never had to do anything with that 30amp fuse shown on the box.
The plug in the picture appears to be a 15 amp residential with that said the RV campground owners my very well have it wired into a 30 amp circuit. That sort of thing happens all the time on some of the ranches I frequent here in Idaho. It won't be long before the plug if running max amps will fry. Adding this edit I bet the wiring behind the plug is not up to size either.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:00 PM   #22
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I would make a deal with the campground owner. Tell him you will have an electrician upgrade the pedestal to 30 A ( 50 A if infrastructure supports it) with 21st century breakers at your expense and maybe request you be assigned that site next year. Yous should be able to have the work done for about $100-$150. Far less than the damage the existing pedestal could cause.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:06 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mkersic View Post
(Although they wired the 3 waste tanks wrong with the panel. I took off the inside panel to see if the wires were hooked up wrong, but with the battery and fresh tank wires, I couldn't tell what was what (it had 6 wires).
Post a pic of the wiring. It is usually a simple setup with a positive, GND, and one lead for each tank.

It is fairly easy to pull a wire from the connector and using a flat blad screwdriver, reinsert it in the proper one.

The plug they say is 30A doesn't look as though it would be UL listed for that type of amps and will eventually heat up and fail. What is the blade configuration of your power cord?
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:06 PM   #24
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Its a 14-30 125/250 volt 4 wire receptacle like an earlier person said

The inverted "L" is the neutral/white wire
The two vertical blades are "L1" and "'L2"
The sideways "D" on top is the ground.

It has a fused pullout disconnect, a neutral, and a ground so in its day, it was an perfectly good setup. In reality, you are much safer with fuses than you are with breakers. The reason the world went to breakers, is fuses are a "one time' use item.

What configuration is your RV?

A 120/250 volt- 50 amp or a 120 volt - 30 amp

The power pole has a 125/250 volt - 30amp receptacle

If you are a 125/250 volt 50 amp RV, you need a 125/250 - 30 amp 4 wire male to a 125/250 volt 50 amp 4 wire female with a short piece of 4 wire #10 SO cord and make your own.

If you have a 120 volt 30 amp Rv you will need 125/250 - 30 amp 4 wire male to a 120 volt 30 amp 3 wire female and a short piece of 3 wire #10 SO cord and make your own adapter using only either L1 or L2 on the male end.

I rather doubt that the rv park is going to upgrade their wiring to handle a 125/250-50 amp service for you. You might be able to get them to pay for the materials to make an adapter though.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:32 PM   #25
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I would get out of Dodge on this set up???
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:38 PM   #26
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The small household looking receptacle is an 30 amp outlet. It as a horizontal blade slot. Which you can use the standard 15/20 amp plugs or the specialized 30 amp plug. I would monitor the cable that is plugged into to it, as mentioned if warm or hot stop using it. It is most likely a light gauge wire feeding the receptacle it could become over taxed quickly. I would not use the round receptacle until you know exactly how it is wired, also as mentioned. That could cause a lot very bad things to happen. With admitting the lack of electrical knowledge I wonder why someone you try to encourage you to make a pigtail adapter. Best advise was giving at the beginning, get an electrician.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:47 PM   #27
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Got a solution for you. Go to your local HD, Lowes, True Value, etc and get yourself a 30 amp 4 wire dryer cord and a female cord cap configured to whatever your RV needs are. If you need 125/250 volts use both hot wires. If you only need 120 volts use only one hot wire and tape the other one off.
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:00 PM   #28
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Has the fuse ever blown? Do you have a spare?
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:49 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uhduh camping View Post
The small household looking receptacle is an 30 amp outlet. It as a horizontal blade slot. Which you can use the standard 15/20 amp plugs or the specialized 30 amp plug. I would monitor the cable that is plugged into to it, as mentioned if warm or hot stop using it. It is most likely a light gauge wire feeding the receptacle it could become over taxed quickly. I would not use the round receptacle until you know exactly how it is wired, also as mentioned. That could cause a lot very bad things to happen. With admitting the lack of electrical knowledge I wonder why someone you try to encourage you to make a pigtail adapter. Best advise was giving at the beginning, get an electrician.

I believe the outlet with the horizontal blade is rated at 20amps, (the one the OP is plugged into). I would do as other said, if you don't have the know how and tools, pay an electrician to change it out to a 30amp outlet, shouldn't cost too much and get peace of mind...
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:54 PM   #30
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Somebody said an a/c needs a MINIMUM of 30 amps.

????

Ya mean the lights, TV, etc won't work with the a/c on if hooked to a 30A post ?

I find that HTB.
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