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07-27-2016, 03:53 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: x
Posts: 12,423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkersic
They said it is wired for 30amps. There have been times when I was showing between 15 and 30 amps. So I'm guessing if it was only 15amps, and I was using more than that, the fuse would have blown?
If I recall when I was a kid........do fuses blow = circuit breaker trips?
I've never had to do anything with that 30amp fuse shown on the box.
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The plug in the picture appears to be a 15 amp residential with that said the RV campground owners my very well have it wired into a 30 amp circuit. That sort of thing happens all the time on some of the ranches I frequent here in Idaho. It won't be long before the plug if running max amps will fry. Adding this edit I bet the wiring behind the plug is not up to size either.
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AF&AM & El Korah Shrine of Idaho
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07-27-2016, 04:00 PM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,266
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I would make a deal with the campground owner. Tell him you will have an electrician upgrade the pedestal to 30 A ( 50 A if infrastructure supports it) with 21st century breakers at your expense and maybe request you be assigned that site next year. Yous should be able to have the work done for about $100-$150. Far less than the damage the existing pedestal could cause.
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07-27-2016, 04:06 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkersic
(Although they wired the 3 waste tanks wrong with the panel. I took off the inside panel to see if the wires were hooked up wrong, but with the battery and fresh tank wires, I couldn't tell what was what (it had 6 wires).
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Post a pic of the wiring. It is usually a simple setup with a positive, GND, and one lead for each tank.
It is fairly easy to pull a wire from the connector and using a flat blad screwdriver, reinsert it in the proper one.
The plug they say is 30A doesn't look as though it would be UL listed for that type of amps and will eventually heat up and fail. What is the blade configuration of your power cord?
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07-27-2016, 04:06 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 353
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Its a 14-30 125/250 volt 4 wire receptacle like an earlier person said
The inverted "L" is the neutral/white wire
The two vertical blades are "L1" and "'L2"
The sideways "D" on top is the ground.
It has a fused pullout disconnect, a neutral, and a ground so in its day, it was an perfectly good setup. In reality, you are much safer with fuses than you are with breakers. The reason the world went to breakers, is fuses are a "one time' use item.
What configuration is your RV?
A 120/250 volt- 50 amp or a 120 volt - 30 amp
The power pole has a 125/250 volt - 30amp receptacle
If you are a 125/250 volt 50 amp RV, you need a 125/250 - 30 amp 4 wire male to a 125/250 volt 50 amp 4 wire female with a short piece of 4 wire #10 SO cord and make your own.
If you have a 120 volt 30 amp Rv you will need 125/250 - 30 amp 4 wire male to a 120 volt 30 amp 3 wire female and a short piece of 3 wire #10 SO cord and make your own adapter using only either L1 or L2 on the male end.
I rather doubt that the rv park is going to upgrade their wiring to handle a 125/250-50 amp service for you. You might be able to get them to pay for the materials to make an adapter though.
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07-27-2016, 04:32 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: 152 SCENIC CIRCLE
Posts: 143
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I would get out of Dodge on this set up???
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07-27-2016, 04:38 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Frederica DE
Posts: 1,223
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The small household looking receptacle is an 30 amp outlet. It as a horizontal blade slot. Which you can use the standard 15/20 amp plugs or the specialized 30 amp plug. I would monitor the cable that is plugged into to it, as mentioned if warm or hot stop using it. It is most likely a light gauge wire feeding the receptacle it could become over taxed quickly. I would not use the round receptacle until you know exactly how it is wired, also as mentioned. That could cause a lot very bad things to happen. With admitting the lack of electrical knowledge I wonder why someone you try to encourage you to make a pigtail adapter. Best advise was giving at the beginning, get an electrician.
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07-27-2016, 04:47 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 353
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Got a solution for you. Go to your local HD, Lowes, True Value, etc and get yourself a 30 amp 4 wire dryer cord and a female cord cap configured to whatever your RV needs are. If you need 125/250 volts use both hot wires. If you only need 120 volts use only one hot wire and tape the other one off.
Next year find a annual with a newer service
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07-27-2016, 05:00 PM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 80
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Has the fuse ever blown? Do you have a spare?
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07-27-2016, 05:49 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uhduh camping
The small household looking receptacle is an 30 amp outlet. It as a horizontal blade slot. Which you can use the standard 15/20 amp plugs or the specialized 30 amp plug. I would monitor the cable that is plugged into to it, as mentioned if warm or hot stop using it. It is most likely a light gauge wire feeding the receptacle it could become over taxed quickly. I would not use the round receptacle until you know exactly how it is wired, also as mentioned. That could cause a lot very bad things to happen. With admitting the lack of electrical knowledge I wonder why someone you try to encourage you to make a pigtail adapter. Best advise was giving at the beginning, get an electrician.
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I believe the outlet with the horizontal blade is rated at 20amps, (the one the OP is plugged into). I would do as other said, if you don't have the know how and tools, pay an electrician to change it out to a 30amp outlet, shouldn't cost too much and get peace of mind...
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07-27-2016, 05:54 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 219
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Somebody said an a/c needs a MINIMUM of 30 amps.
????
Ya mean the lights, TV, etc won't work with the a/c on if hooked to a 30A post ?
I find that HTB.
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2014 King Ranch Ecoboost Screw, 3.73.....2019 Palamino 27RLSS (customized)
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07-27-2016, 05:56 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, La.
Posts: 677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShermanD
Got a solution for you. Go to your local HD, Lowes, True Value, etc and get yourself a 30 amp 4 wire dryer cord and a female cord cap configured to whatever your RV needs are. If you need 125/250 volts use both hot wires. If you only need 120 volts use only one hot wire and tape the other one off.
Next year find a annual with a newer service
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This is a good temp solution, I have the know how and would change the dryer recepticle or just add a 30 amp rv rect. to the box.
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2002 Silverado 1500HD
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07-27-2016, 06:03 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve29rlx
Has the fuse ever blown? Do you have a spare?
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There is probably a penny screwed in behind it.
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07-27-2016, 06:14 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Frederica DE
Posts: 1,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gectisme
I believe the outlet with the horizontal blade is rated at 20amps, (the one the OP is plugged into). I would do as other said, if you don't have the know how and tools, pay an electrician to change it out to a 30amp outlet, shouldn't cost too much and get peace of mind...
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You are right 30A would be two horizontal blades my bad
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2016 Ford F250 XLT 4X4 6.2L
2015 Rockwood Signature Ultralite 8329SS
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07-27-2016, 06:38 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Glasgow ky
Posts: 192
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The 110 v plug is a 20 amp receptacle.
The extension cord does matter. The bigger and shorter the better. You loose amps per foot.
As info
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07-27-2016, 06:45 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode
That doesn't sound right to me but I'm like you and know very little when it comes to electricity and how it works. I'm sure others will chime in if that's even possible...
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The 30A fuse protecting the 20A outlet, is incorrect; and dangerous.
The "T-slot" outlet is rated for 20A... that's what the fuse should be, at most. The contacts, and most likely the wiring, isn't sized for 30A loads. Running it at 30A is a bad plan...
The whole works should be redone, IMO.
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2014 Grey Wolf 28BH, behind a 2015 F350 Diesel Crew Cab
Nights Camped 2016: 44
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07-28-2016, 02:06 PM
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#36
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBob
Also I forgot to attach the EMS photo - oops here it is.
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Bob, that is the exact EMS I have. YAY!
I emailed the owners asking for an updated box that I can directly plug my 30amp plug into, that also has a circuit breaker.
They agreed to replace it. The last renters on this site were there about 15 years, and they told the owners they didn't want it replaced, because they liked having the second out for plugging in lights, etc.
The new box will NOT have an additional plug.....but I'm fine with that. I can use the plug on the outside of my camper for those needs.
Thanks to everyone else for their input. I hope this helped others too.
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Thanks! Mike and Jan.
2016 Forest River Surveyor 32RLTS
(Newbies: Our first camper. No truck. Permanent campsite in Pocono Mountains, PA.)
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07-28-2016, 02:12 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 183
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If you have a 50 amp camper ask for a box with a 50 amp plug.
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2015 Sunseeker 3170ds
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07-28-2016, 02:41 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TakeItEasy
If you have a 50 amp camper ask for a box with a 50 amp plug.
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Our camper is wired for 50amp in case we later want to add a second A/C.
But the campground does not offer 50amp service to the seasonal sites.
I've not had problems with 30amps except on the holiday weekends.
__________________
Thanks! Mike and Jan.
2016 Forest River Surveyor 32RLTS
(Newbies: Our first camper. No truck. Permanent campsite in Pocono Mountains, PA.)
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07-28-2016, 02:49 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Whereever our Berkshire is Parked!
Posts: 7,082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkersic
Bob, that is the exact EMS I have. YAY!
I emailed the owners asking for an updated box that I can directly plug my 30amp plug into, that also has a circuit breaker.
They agreed to replace it. The last renters on this site were there about 15 years, and they told the owners they didn't want it replaced, because they liked having the second out for plugging in lights, etc.
The new box will NOT have an additional plug.....but I'm fine with that. I can use the plug on the outside of my camper for those needs.
Thanks to everyone else for their input. I hope this helped others too.
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You are now, as we say in Alabama "In High Cotton"
Enjoy your new (and SAFE!) Electric pedestal (At no cost to you! )
Now....
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Bob & Anne-Marie [BamaBob & 6 Actual]
| 2017 Berkshire XLT 43A with Ultrasteer Tag | Blue Ox Avail + KarGard II |
| SMI AF-1 Air Brake | 2016 Jeep Cherokee Overland TOAD | Pedego Bikes |
Nights Camped: 2013 - 24 • 2014 - 42 • 2015 - 56 • Jul 2016 - Fulltime •
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07-28-2016, 03:12 PM
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#40
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dea49
Post a pic of the wiring. It is usually a simple setup with a positive, GND, and one lead for each tank.
It is fairly easy to pull a wire from the connector and using a flat blad screwdriver, reinsert it in the proper one.
The plug they say is 30A doesn't look as though it would be UL listed for that type of amps and will eventually heat up and fail. What is the blade configuration of your power cord?
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Here's a picture of the back of the tank panel numbered #1 (red) to #6 (blue).
__________________
Thanks! Mike and Jan.
2016 Forest River Surveyor 32RLTS
(Newbies: Our first camper. No truck. Permanent campsite in Pocono Mountains, PA.)
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