Is this wire the same as GROUND or not?

prayers1 · 06-08-2013, 08:02 PM

I have a 1998 Georgetown Motorhome 34'.
I'm installing a wireless back up camera, I threaded the transmitter wire from the outside into my back closet.

(the transmitter is in the closet, just the camera is outside)

I'm tapping into my rear closet light to get a pos and neg wire. Now the transmitter wire is Red & Black, instructions to call for a ground. The closet wires are red & white. I took the red transmitter to the red closet wire and the black transmitter wire to the white on the closet.

Is the white wire in the closet the same as getting a ground?

After having everything hooked up Receiver & Transmitter, the monitor says No Signal.

Does anyone know what might be wrong.
Thanks in advance for your help

prof_fate · 06-08-2013, 08:14 PM

Usually on 12v motor vehicles ground is the body/chassis, not a separate wire. What color is ground is often black, but sometimes a manufacturer picks another color (like green on honda motorcycles for ground).

Do you have a multimeter/ volt meter?

sherdep · 06-08-2013, 08:45 PM

Does the light work when you turn it on?
Have to ask the obvious

Like stated if you have a multimeter check to see if you have 12 volts at the light on the pair of wires you are trying to use

Did you buy the camera new or used and
Also have you checked the camera prior to installing to make sure it worked so you know

RodeoGeorge · 06-08-2013, 09:05 PM

First, in "most" of the FR RVs they pair a colored wire with a white wire (red, blue, green, yellow) for the 12V wiring. The white in that case is the ground wire. That ground is in fact tied to the chassis, normally in the vicinity of the battery or Power Distribution Panel.

Second, if the light circuit into which you tied the transmitter power is switched by a wall switch (not the one built into the light itself) then that switch would have to be on to obtain power on those wires.

Third, depending on the transmitter output power (most are relatively low power devices because of their operating on the 2.4 GHz WIFI frequencies) it is possible that there is insufficient signal strength at the receiver (located near the Monitor).

Fourth, if the Transmitter/Receiver combination has selectable frequencies (this can normally vary from two to sixteen different channels), ensure that the same Channel (frequency) is set on both the Transmitter and Receiver.

Fifth, of course there is a possibility that either the Camera or the Wireless System is defective.

Try plugging the Camera into the Monitor via direct hard wire and determine that you have video.

If you have video via the hard wiring, I would then locate the Camera and Transmitter close (within 5 feet) of the Receiver and see if the System passes video. If so, then increase the distance and determine the range of the Transmitter/Receiver. If the Transmitter and Receiver have antennas which use the SMA or Type F connectors, you could try an antenna with higher gain.

Also, if the Receiver is located underneath the dash (not out in the open) this can severely limit range.

Hope this helps.

RodeoGeorge

prayers1 · 06-08-2013, 11:32 PM

I tied the Pos & White wire together w/ the closet light and Transmitter, however before going directly to the transmitter I put in a single pole switch. The white are all tied together. I tried the unit with the lights on/off as well asthe switch on/off.

Yes, it is 2.4 GHz and there is a tiny 1 1/2" antenna on the transmitter & receiver, they are not adjustable. I tried bringing the receiver antenna closer, in front of the dash instead where I had it before under the dash. They are about 30' from each other, I don't know how stong the system is. My guess it would act like a cordless phone, so I think the distance would not be a problem., but who knows???

I thought that maybe I wasn't getting enough current to the transmitter, so I unhockeverything and just ties the transmitter to my battery pack. Still nothing but I did notice that the transmitter was getting very warm and the receiver was not.

Had to call it quits tonight. I hope someone thinks of an answer by the Morning.
As always, thank your for all your help.

RodeoGeorge · 06-09-2013, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prayers1

I tied the Pos & White wire together w/ the closet light and Transmitter, however before going directly to the transmitter I put in a single pole switch. The white are all tied together. I tried the unit with the lights on/off as well asthe switch on/off.

What you're describing as far as the power connections does not sound correct. If you tied the Positive (red) wire from the Transmitter to the White wire, where did you connect the Negative (Black) wire of the Transmitter.

As I mentioned above, the White wire is normally -12V (Ground).

What are the two colors of the wires going to the light where you are connecting the Transmitter?

If you tied the Red Transmitter wire to the White Light wire, and grounded the Black Transmitter wire, you have no +12V going to the Transmitter, but rather Ground (-12V) on both sides of the Transmitter Power wires.

I believe that I know what Transmitter/Receiver you have. They are like a Pod on the cables with a small antenna protruding. 30' Line Of Sight (no obstructions) should work with that system.

Did you try direct wiring the video cable of the Camera to the Monitor to ensure that both the Camera and the Monitor are working?

I'll check in the morning for your answers.

RodeoGeorge

prayers1 · 06-09-2013, 12:20 AM

Thanks for your reply.

I tied the black wire of the transmitter to the white wire and the red to red.

Light wires are red / white.

Yes, they are a pod.

No I didn't test them at first. Right now the Camera is mounted to the outside of the coach and that lead goes into the closet. I have applied silcone to both open ends. On the inside of the closet I can attach the transmitter, but I cannot take the camera down unless I undue all that I did.

What do you think about the transmitter getting warm when it was hooked up to the battery pack.

Also, I have wired the pos & neg of the Monitor and receiver together. Should they be seperated?

RodeoGeorge · 06-09-2013, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prayers1

Thanks for your reply.

I tied the black wire of the transmitter to the white wire and the red to red.

Light wires are red / white.

Yes, they are a pod.

No I didn't test them at first. Right now the Camera is mounted to the outside of the coach and that lead goes into the closet. I have applied silcone to both open ends. On the inside of the closet I can attach the transmitter, but I cannot take the camera down unless I undue all that I did.

What do you think about the transmitter getting warm when it was hooked up to the battery pack.

Also, I have wired the pos & neg of the Monitor and receiver together. Should they be seperated?

I understand about the Camera being mounted, and you're not being able to move it to the Monitor. But if you can't take Muhammad to the mountain, take the mountain to Muhammad, and move the Monitor to the area where the Camera lead comes into the RV.

The Monitor and Receiver power connections (Red to Red to Red +12V / Black to Black to White -12V) can be tied together.

If you can move the Monitor to the vicinity of the Camera cable, you can use a generic Stereo Cable (Male RCA on both ends) to complete the Video connection from the Camera to the Monitor for testing. You can also power the Monitor and Receiver from the same +12V source there at the back.

With regards to the Transmitter getting warm/hot, bear in mind that this type of Transmitter/Receiver system is not designed for continuous operation (that is periods longer than about 5 to 10 minutes). That's why they are referred to as "backup camera" systems where they are powered only while in reverse. As to the longevity of the Transmitter when operated for an extended period of time, it cannot be predicted. It is normal for the Transmitter to get warm when it's operating. The Receiver should not get warm. The Transmitter draws about 200 mA (.2 Amps) and the Camera will draw about 300 mA (.3 Amps) when the IR LEDs are illuminated. So your total current draw for the Camera and Transmitter will be about .5 Amps max. Fuse the items accordingly.

The Receiver only draws about 80 mA (.08 Amps), and I do not know what your Monitor draws as they vary considerably.

One other thing when you do the final installation. Orient the antennas in the same direction. That is, either both antennas vertical, or both antennas horizontal. If they are "cross polarized" you can have up to a 3dB loss in the transmission and reception of the signal.

Good luck.

RodeoGeorge

prayers1 · 06-09-2013, 03:48 PM

RodeoGeorge- I appreciate the time and valuable information you have given me!

I was able to get back to the project.
Per your advise, I took the mountain to Muhammad, hooked everything up and nothing. As I sat there puzzled, I thought why not swap the rec with the transmitter. I didn't change any of the wires including the pos/neg's just the PODS, I turned the monitor on and to my surprise it worked. I then reconnected my monitor at the dash and the transmitter in the back and again success. If I hadn't taken the system all apart and setting it up next to each other I would have never sovled the problem. THANK YOU!

Now I have afew questions:
1, I'm getting power to the Monitor and rec POD at the radio wires. The radio is not connected at this momemt. Before I tapped into those wires it originally had the pos & neg going to a small black box that has 8a on it, from there it went right into the radio. There is also another 12v pos wire to the radio that has a fuse and says Memory.

What I want to do is use the original wires to the radio before going to the 8a box for the Monitor and POD, because it is powered only when the key is on.
For power to the radio, I was goint to go from radio/acc fuse and wiring it to the pos wire at the 8a box. For negative, I then was going to take a wire ground it at the frame and attach it to the neg wire at the 8a box.

2, As for the wires in the back. Could I twist just tie Feeder Pos wire to the closet light Pos wire and the POD pos wire all together. Just like they do on houses instead of using a barrel crimp. The wires will be in the closet tucked away and wrapped in electrical tape, not exposed to the elements. I was going to take 1 of the 3 Pos wires and extend it long enough to a single pole switch then to the POD for power to the back camera.

As for the feeder Neg, I was going to do the same thing except just tie the Neg Feeder wire to the closet neg and POD neg wire.

I'll wait to hear your opinion.

Thanks Again!!
As for the

RodeoGeorge · 06-09-2013, 04:21 PM

What a dumb assumption on my part. I "assumed" that you had the Transmitter connected to the Camera, and the Receiver connected to the Monitor. Apparently you had them reversed. Right now a mute point, if you have it working. Hurrah!

As to the wiring of the Transmitter and Camera to power.

I do not know what you mean by "Feeder Pos"?

I am trying to visualize what you have. Here are my assumptions. Correct what is wrong with the assumption.

1. In the rear you have a Red and a Black wire that powers the Transmitter.

2. In the rear you have a Red and a Black wire that powers the Camera.

3. In the rear you have a pair of wires that supply power to the Light, one of which is white, and the other (Positive 12V wire) I'll call COLOR.

If the above is correct, you can connect the Black Camera, Black Transmitter, and White Light wire together and insulate them (wrap with tape).

Connect the Red Camera wire and the Red Transmitter wire together with a length of wire that you can connect to one side of your switch. Obviously insulate those wires where they are joined.

Run the wire to one side of the switch, and from the other side of the switch run a wire THROUGH A FUSE to the COLOR wire of the Light. I's suggest a 1 Amp fuse.

This method will protect the RV from any overload in your additions.

Follow the same procedure in the front, substituting the Monitor power wires for the Camera. Again, even if there is a fuse in the Monitor wires, I'd add another fuse that incorporates the Receiver and Monitor in the event that a problem develops in the Receiver.

Now I'm going back to work pulling wires and coax for my truck mounted Camera, while I await the Transmitter/Receiver for the 5th Wheel Camera.

Good luck.

RodeoGeorge

BarryD0706 · 06-09-2013, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prayers1

...
2, As for the wires in the back. Could I twist just tie Feeder Pos wire to the closet light Pos wire and the POD pos wire all together. Just like they do on houses instead of using a barrel crimp.

There is a lot more vibration in your RV than in your home. You really should use a crimp to join the wires. You can buy a crimper for as little as $6 and then you'll have it for future work.

prayers1 · 06-09-2013, 06:18 PM

RodeoGeorge, I understand.

The rear camera is powered by the RCA cable coming from the POD. The other side of the POD has the Pos & Neg for both.

The feeder wire I'm referring tois the supply wire to the closet. Since I cut both Pos & Neg wires going to the closet light, now I have a Pos & Neg for the closet light and the supply coming in. I will tape off all unions and run a single Pos wire in a junction box that will have a single pole switch for power to the POD. I think I'll put the FUSE between the switch and Pod as one wire.

I don't know if you understood my fix for the front.
Since I'm taking the Key On Pos & Neg from the Radio. I thought to run power from the fuse box and ground from the chassis. This means the radio will always have power. My concern is the 2nd power wire going to the radio for it's memory. Meaning that there is power there all the time as will. Which leads me to this question.

Is it OK to have 2 seperate always on pos wires going to the Radio.

In reality, those 2 wires are on ONLY when radio is turned on.

So, what do you think?

sherdep · 06-09-2013, 06:27 PM

I would buy a set of $20 Klein crimpers from Home Depot to crimp the connectors then those cheap crappy crimpers.
Working in the access control industry I have seen crappy crimps that come apart and make it bad when you have to go back and re-crimp someone else's crimp

I would stay away from wire nuts - like stated about vibration and could also possibly be a fire hazard - I remember something about boats and insurance

RodeoGeorge · 06-09-2013, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prayers1

Is it OK to have 2 seperate always on pos wires going to the Radio.

In reality, those 2 wires are on ONLY when radio is turned on.

So, what do you think?

First, it is okay to have both the radio and the memory going to an always ON 12V source. Just be aware of the fact that if you ever turn the volume down on the radio and fail to turn it OFF, you will drain your battery. That is why the radio is normally wired to a circuit that is live when the key is in the accessory or ignition on position.

Personally, I'd wire the memory to an always on, and the radio power input to an accessory circuit.

The memory retention circuit has a very low current draw, normally way down in the milliamps.

I certainly agree with the others regarding wire connections. Where possible, I normally solder all my connections, but if that's not possible I use crimp connectors. You'll be glad that you did in the long run.

RodeoGeorge

prayers1 · 06-09-2013, 10:54 PM

Well I finally finished and just in time, Monday were starting our journey from Arkansas to Yosemite National Park.

I have to say that I'm very pleased on the performance and clarity of picture. I was also impressed with the infrared light, it does provide a clear picture with depth. I am only using one camera for rear viewing. This set up was an eBay $115.00 item. Will see how it holds up on the round trip.

I finished by keeping the original radio wires together. I thought if I did use the radio wires and something burns up then maybe the whole harness might fry as well. I found an only accessory empty fuse location and used it for power to thr monitor and Rec Pod, I did put an inline fuse in. As for ground I used a section of the chassis near the steering column.

I want to thank everyone for their opinion and help, especially Rodeo George.

RodeoGeorge · 06-09-2013, 11:36 PM

Glad that you're up and going.

I also finished replacing the Monitor and Camera on my truck. The original Camera was very low resolution, and the Monitor was about 3.5 inches. It was intended to be use on for hitching up.

I now have a High Resolution CCD Camera hard wired to a 7 inch Monitor for the truck. DHL is due to deliver my 3 Watt 1.2 GHz Transmitter/Receiver tomorrow, so the Camera on the rear of the 5th wheel is next.

I have a trip to a Rodeo in Santa Fe, NM next week, and will probably do a temporary installation on the Cargo Trailer that I'll be taking to see how things shake out.

RodeoGeorge

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