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Old 08-31-2013, 03:23 PM   #11
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I feel lucky then, this is the second fifth wheel that we have converted to LEDs have have had no such issue. I bought mine at LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
I am pretty sure they were more costly than the ones on ebay.

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You can't make things idiot proof, you can only make them idiot resistant.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:03 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by pmsherman View Post
I've just replaced all of the light bulbs in my 2011 Georgetown with LEDs and suspect I know what's causing this problem. LEDs are sensitive to the voltage that is fed to them which can be a problem in an RV. If you're running on batteries, you should expect anything from just over 13V (fully charged) to 11V, the voltage you get from an almost dead battery. If you're plugged into shore power and have a multi-stage converter, you can easily have 14.1V on your DC wiring. To keep the LEDs at a constant brightness, there's a tiny voltage regulator built into the base of the bulb. These are usually DC-DC switching regulators which, if not designed to prevent RF (radio frequency) interference, can cause interference to TVs and radios.

I used 48 led flat panel replacements for my bulbs and installed a small voltage regulator in each fixture. I checked mine and found that they don't create any interference to the TV. The hardware for each fixture, two bulbs and a voltage regulator, cost me around $6 per fixture. Of course, this doesn't include my time to wire everything up.

Phil Sherman
Details on parts please?

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Old 09-29-2013, 08:04 PM   #13
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Yes yes we need details please
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:35 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by CaptainJustice View Post
Details on parts please?
Sorry for the delay responding but we had problems with the RV getting home (engine, furnace, toad wiring) and I've been trying to catch up with everything I need to do.

I can't give you full details because the vendors for these products change on a weekly basis. Both items used in the fixtures were purchased on eBay and direct shipped (free) from the Far East. These items are available in single lot quantities or bulk purchases of 2-10 items.

The voltage regulators are DC-DC LM2596 buck regulators. You feed power in (two wires) at one end of the circuit board and power comes out at the other end. There's an adjustment on the board to set the output voltage. If you're doing a number of fixtures, buy these from a vendor that's selling a 10-pack. I rewired the fixture so that the fixture's switch interrupted power going to the regulator, which eliminated all power draw when it is turned off. Mine are set at 11.2V, which has each two bulb fixture drawing just over 500ma, much less than the two incandescent bulbs. I also discovered that the ceiling under fixtures that had incandescent bulbs in them had turned brown from the bulb's heat. I'd prefer to set the voltage a bit lower to decrease power consumption but my travel companion insisted on the slightly brighter lighting at this voltage.

The light bulbs I used can be found by searching eBay on "48 LED panel". I purchased the cool white ones which are closer to daylight light than the warm white ones. Get the ones with the three attachments for different types of fixtures and you'll be able to use them anywhere. I was even able to put them in the round fixtures that had (very hot) halogen bulbs in them. This required a little bit of work to make connectors that fit the fixture.

The LED panels come with a double sided adhesive back. I found that they would stay in the fixtures only if the metal heat shields were removed because there isn't enough flat surface with the heat shields installed to hold the panels. Another cure for this problem is to tack the corners of the panels with hot melt glue. I used one panel without a voltage regulator and the adhesive pad shrunk and curled up because the LEDs were running very hot on 13.4V. That fixture now has a voltage regulator installed in it.


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