Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-15-2014, 12:18 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 72
Looking for good electrical tech in Colorado Springs?

Was dewinterizing the trailer today and things going well until I started filling the hot water tank. GFI on the house tripped. Now realized that more than likely the HW heating element was gone. Forgot to turn off outside switch for last fall. So set the breaker for HW tank off and for a short time everything seems to be working fine again.

So was running furnace, turned on Hot Water heater for gas and working good. Since it was right at freezing 32, decided to turn the Tank Heater switch on and then immediately lost 110v again. But now can't seem to keep it from tripping the house GFI when somethings turned on connected to the GFI circuit in the trailer. Like our space heater which was working fine until the tank heater switch was flipped. About the only thing that we can run without the house GFI tripping (20a) is a table lamp. 60W. Something is not good now.

I'm going to be calling the local dealer (Sun City Trailers) tomorrow to discuss the problem. Any recommendations for a good electrical tech in the area would be appreciated.

Totally bummed! Had plans for the weekend.
__________________

__________________
TT 2011 Rockwood Windjammer 3008W
TV 2015 RAM 3500 MC 4x4 DRW w/ AC69RC HD Trans
Anderson WD hitch
cobiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 04:09 AM   #2
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobiker View Post
Was dewinterizing the trailer today and things going well until I started filling the hot water tank. GFI on the house tripped. Now realized that more than likely the HW heating element was gone. Forgot to turn off outside switch for last fall. So set the breaker for HW tank off and for a short time everything seems to be working fine again.

So was running furnace, turned on Hot Water heater for gas and working good. Since it was right at freezing 32, decided to turn the Tank Heater switch on and then immediately lost 110v again. But now can't seem to keep it from tripping the house GFI when somethings turned on connected to the GFI circuit in the trailer. Like our space heater which was working fine until the tank heater switch was flipped. About the only thing that we can run without the house GFI tripping (20a) is a table lamp. 60W. Something is not good now.

I'm going to be calling the local dealer (Sun City Trailers) tomorrow to discuss the problem. Any recommendations for a good electrical tech in the area would be appreciated.

Totally bummed! Had plans for the weekend.
It's probably not as bad as you think. You may have fried the electric heating element, but can just run it on propane until that part is fixed.

As far as the house gfci tripping, this is common when plugging an RV into that kind of circuit. It doesn't take much for a gfci to trip.......and the RV's gfci and the house's gfci will fight each other too.

Are you using any kind of extension cord from the RV to the houses GFCI? Also what kind of adapter are you using to convert from the RV to be able to plug into your house gfci?
__________________

__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 06:28 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Berryville, Arkansas
Posts: 709
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobiker View Post
Was dewinterizing the trailer today and things going well until I started filling the hot water tank. GFI on the house tripped. Now realized that more than likely the HW heating element was gone. Forgot to turn off outside switch for last fall. So set the breaker for HW tank off and for a short time everything seems to be working fine again.

So was running furnace, turned on Hot Water heater for gas and working good. Since it was right at freezing 32, decided to turn the Tank Heater switch on and then immediately lost 110v again. But now can't seem to keep it from tripping the house GFI when somethings turned on connected to the GFI circuit in the trailer. Like our space heater which was working fine until the tank heater switch was flipped. About the only thing that we can run without the house GFI tripping (20a) is a table lamp. 60W. Something is not good now.

I'm going to be calling the local dealer (Sun City Trailers) tomorrow to discuss the problem. Any recommendations for a good electrical tech in the area would be appreciated.

Totally bummed! Had plans for the weekend.
Also make sure you are using a good quality extension cord. If you don't get a good ground connection GFCI breakers will trip. Try plugging in to another receptacle that is not GFCI protected.
__________________


2012 CC 36CKTS Touring Edition
[SIZE=2]2015 Ford F-350 CC DRW Lariat
Joe_GA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 07:34 AM   #4
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,169
GREAT ideas.

1) ARE you using an extension cord? The voltage drop in an extension cord not rated for 30 amps can be considerable and the low voltage available at the camper can cause a lot of damage. Measure the AC voltage at an outlet; anything less than 105 volts AC is very bad.

2) Is the house outlet GFCI protected? Plugging a camper's GFCI into a house GFCI causes the GFCI protection to become unreliable.

3) What is your battery voltage? If your battery is low or dead, you can easily exceed your "20 amp" rated breaker. Also most of these house outlets are actually 15 amp and not 20 amp. The outlets are (supposed to be) different on 20 amp circuits (one blade is "T" shaped; not vertical).
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	171842-ProductImageURL.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	28.0 KB
ID:	52470  
Attached Images
  
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:56 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
It's probably not as bad as you think. You may have fried the electric heating element, but can just run it on propane until that part is fixed.

As far as the house gfci tripping, this is common when plugging an RV into that kind of circuit. It doesn't take much for a gfci to trip.......and the RV's gfci and the house's gfci will fight each other too.

Are you using any kind of extension cord from the RV to the houses GFCI? Also what kind of adapter are you using to convert from the RV to be able to plug into your house gfci?

Thanks for the reply. Is replacing the electric heating element a DIY type of job?

I am using a good quality extension cord. I believe its 50ft 14 gauge, from the work shop GFI which is a 20amp circuit. Goes through a 15a to 30a converter to our 30 amp yellow cable.

So reset the GFCI in the trailer bath, but really didn't help.

Hooking up the heater, a Fahrenheat LFP6152 Portable Electric Hydronic Heater, 750 to 1500-watt , to the extension cord feeding the trailer by itself, Voltage right at 124v +/- .2v. with no load, full load drops the voltage to 117v, but the house GFCI does not trip.

But putting the heater in the trailer, Voltage is about 123v +/- and I can only turn the load to about to 1/2 power, voltage drops to 118v before the house GFCI trips.

Seems to me that we've got something drawing more current somewhere else in the trailer than before I flipped the switch for the Tank Heaters. Before that I had the heater full power and was working fine.

I'll be calling around this AM talking with the service folks at the local dealerships.

Thanks for the help.
__________________
TT 2011 Rockwood Windjammer 3008W
TV 2015 RAM 3500 MC 4x4 DRW w/ AC69RC HD Trans
Anderson WD hitch
cobiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 10:07 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Jimandchris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 586
Have you unplugged the 110 vac side of the water heater to be sure that's not drawing any current?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Forest River Forums mobile app
__________________
2014 Roo 23SS
2013 GM Sierra CC
Prodigy P3 Brake Controller
Equal-i-zer Hitch
Nites Camped 2016 -25
Jimandchris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 10:09 AM   #7
Member
 
Lynkage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,149
A 14awg 50' cord will only be rated for about 10-12 amps max. If that is feeding your RV cord then that is even less desirable.

As was pointed out above, plug into a NON GFCI outlet with at least a 12 awg cord, preferably a 10 awg cord.

Heating elements and AC units will wreak havoc on GFCI circuits.
__________________
Shane & Antoinette
2012 Ford F-450 SuperDuty
2013 Crusader 355BHQ
Lynkage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 10:09 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Jimandchris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 586
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimandchris View Post
Have you unplugged the 110 vac side of the water heater to be sure that's not drawing any current?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Forest River Forums mobile app
Sorry, didn't notice you disconnected at the breaker

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Forest River Forums mobile app
__________________
2014 Roo 23SS
2013 GM Sierra CC
Prodigy P3 Brake Controller
Equal-i-zer Hitch
Nites Camped 2016 -25
Jimandchris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 10:20 AM   #9
Member
 
Lynkage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,149
Also the more connections you make (adapters and extension cords) the more of a voltage drop you will get as well which really means more resistance and less power at the final connection point.
__________________
Shane & Antoinette
2012 Ford F-450 SuperDuty
2013 Crusader 355BHQ
Lynkage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 03:47 PM   #10
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,169
Shane is correct. A 14 gauge cord might be OK for a hedge trimmer, but will wreak havoc on your camper.

Buy two 25 foot 30 amp RV extension cords (cheaper than a custom 50 foot one - and if you need one while traveling you will only need a 25 footer normally) and plug directly into the garage socket with an adapter. Running the microwave or air conditioner is a bad idea on an extension cord.

You should not run your microwave or air conditioner on an extension cord (even a 30 amp one) due to voltage drop which can destroy your air conditioner's compressor and your microwave's magnetron without an auto transformer (like a Franks Unit) to boost the voltage back to normal at the camper.

See the review in the Review Forum
__________________

__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
electric, electrical

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:44 PM.