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Old 12-15-2014, 11:17 PM   #1
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Magnum MSH3012M 3000w Hybrid inverter/charger

I don't know if anyone is interested, but a fantastic deal right now on the new Magnum hybrid inverter/charger. $1574.67 and free shipping.

Magnum MSH3012M 3000watt
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:56 PM   #2
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Hello Yarome!,,, We have a 2013 Sp220 and will be installing a Sunforce 1000 watt pure sine inverter with remote control on/off fob. I am using 1/0 welding cable for the mainline( overkill i know) connection with a waterproof 150 amp high current circuit breaker. Im interested in finding out where you installed your inverter/charger.Any pics would be very appreciated!.
Thanks !
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Old 12-30-2014, 01:21 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by ciszzco View Post
Hello Yarome!,,, We have a 2013 Sp220 and will be installing a Sunforce 1000 watt pure sine inverter with remote control on/off fob. I am using 1/0 welding cable for the mainline( overkill i know) connection with a waterproof 150 amp high current circuit breaker. Im interested in finding out where you installed your inverter/charger.Any pics would be very appreciated!.
Thanks !
Sure! I actually installed mine in the underbed storage area, but that's also where I have my house batteries (AGM's) and solar controller. I wanted to get the battery weight off the hitch, keep my power center as close together as possible, and it was a snap to run the solar lines down through the entertainment centers unused spaces.

I don't think the 1/0 is overkill at all! I actually used 2/0 in my install. I'll post a picture, but probably... in your situation.. I would install your Sunforce upside down in the center of the pass through. I would center it front to back as well to get maximum ventilation and add a layer of sound deadening material (from the local car audio place they have aluminum backed.. aka heat resistant vibration matting) between the inverter and the mounting surface. The reason being... it's basically almost right under your head.. so even the slight vibration and sound from the fan might get annoying at night. Then I would run your 1/0 down the front wall of the pass through.. thru the flooring and into the underbelly. You'll need to drop the underbelly anyway to run your 110v line from the inverter to your power distribution panel. There is no "nice" way to get across from the ent. center to the kitchen cabinets but the underbelly, so I would just feed the 110v line down the same hole as your 1/0 and over to the DP.

As added protection for the wiring running down the inside wall of the pass through, I would probably cut some PVC in half to act as a protective channel. You MIGHT be able to just put your wiring hole at the top front of the pass through and drop it down into the underbelly directly, but I don't really recall what it look like up in there. Ie., if it was "open" or another access hole would need to be drilled.

From there you can just enlarge the existing pigtail hole to run your wiring out to your batteries. You might want to add some of that accordion style wiring protector.. and be sure to re-seal the exterior hole.

Hope it helps. Ohh... the fuse can be mounted just inside the pigtail hole next to the 40amp fuse already there. It would be much more protected once the underbelly goes back up.

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Old 12-30-2014, 02:07 PM   #4
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Hello again Yarome, thanks so much for getting back so quickly! As per your information and pic provided, I had previously done some preemptory exploring around the underside of the Sp220 and dropped the front protective enclosure to take a peak inside. I'm thinking that i'll mount a water proof plastic housing on the rear rail of the battery support and place the 150 amp circuit breaker there for easy access. two thoughts.. easy access if it does blow for reset and also as a master kill switch overall.
I noted on the front exterior metal cribbing on the bottom side of the trailer there are a couple of plastic buttons that can be removed for running the 1/0 cable through (plastic accordion shielding at these points) also pass thru floor hole where the cable( 1/0 , BX and #6 inverter ground wires enter/exit same. I'm leaning toward mounting the inverter on an "L" shaped bracket against the front wall horizontally about 12" in from the right hatch access on a vibration dampened pad with the digital display facing toward the (right side) entry/exit side. I'll run the rubberized BX(metal shielded) 14/2 line back out of the pass thru the hole and run underneath the trailer re entering the trailer interior at an area just to the left of the converter or just to the left of the entry door for easy access if the sliding drawers permit to an orange colored plugin and electrical box for dedicated "inverter" use only. By doing this I'll have easy access both inside and out for my electrical needs when boon docking.
By positioning the inverter at the above noted location and using one plug in for the interior, I'll have one unused plugin that I can also use at the pass thru location.
I'm still in the "mulling my options" stage and have not taken the hole saw out as yet as it's -5 Celsius (23F) out here on the west coast just N of the US border!
Thanks for your Help Yarome!.. much appreciated!
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:24 PM   #5
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...on the rear rail of the battery support and place the 150 amp circuit breaker there for easy access. two thoughts.. easy access if it does blow for reset and also as a master kill switch overall.

...just to the left of the converter or just to the left of the entry door for easy access if the sliding drawers permit to an orange colored plugin and electrical box for dedicated "inverter" use only.
That's more than doable! I completely understand the "easy access" issue with the fusing. Dropping the underbelly is a PITA just to check a fuse. ;-) I might make a recommendation for a "kill switch" though.. Just to keep it "clean", I might install a standard mini (red) battery disconnect type switch between your batteries and inverter... next to the inverter.



Re-entry.. There should be plenty of space next to the entry door (at least with a shallow box), but might be a pain laying on your belly and reaching all the way back in there from the drawer opening. You'll just have take a look at it. Just to the left of the PD panel is quick and painless. That is where I installed my sub-panel (my inverter is tied into my PD panel). If you could swing it though.. right next to the door would be my first choice. Running a cord to use outside and having to trip over it in the kitchen is not my idea of fun.

I really can't think of anything else to suggest. You want to make sure any physical contact points are well protected... Sounds like a solid plan!! If you really wanted to go full hog at some point, you might consider a sub-panel and transfer switch. Next season... hehe



Oh.. you "might" consider some type of light two sided protection (top and exposed side of the inverter). Just to keep any other pass through "stuffs" from encroaching into your inverters air spaces.

Love to hear how it works out, and don't hesitate to stop back in with any questions.

~ Cheers
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