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10-17-2013, 09:41 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Texas - east of San Antonio
Posts: 305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeplj8
I started thinking about this as "how would I walk my DW through what to do?"
Here is what I suggest - take things one step at a time.
1) take a hair dryer, go to the electrical outlet you had the camper plugged into - plug in hair dryer, does it work?
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I don't have a hair dryer!  But I'll try something else. Be right back!
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10-17-2013, 09:43 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Texas - east of San Antonio
Posts: 305
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UGH! Hubby has that rigged, too. It is a plug that only the TT can plug into, so I can't test it with anything else. :P
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10-17-2013, 09:45 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 881
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Try one of the interior outlets with a lamp, coffee maker, toaster...
__________________
2011 PrimeTime Tracer 2600rls
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10-17-2013, 09:45 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 513
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Plug a hairdryer or lamp into an electrical outlet inside the RV to see if you have 110v in the camper
__________________
North Carolina born and bred
2010 Sandpiper 345RET
2011 2500 Duramax Silverado
2001 Centurion Elite Bowrider direct drive
"Old water skier"
Jesus Christ my Saviour
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10-17-2013, 09:46 AM
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#25
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhanna
We have the house rigged so that the trailer has it's own breaker and outlet, that seems to be alright.
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When you say the house is rigged for it's own trailer outlet, is it a 30 amp variety that you can plug the trailers power cord directly into, without using any kind of adapter plug.?
Nevermind: I see you answered that above in my slow typing interim.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kerrlakelover
Plug a hairdryer or lamp into an electrical outlet inside the RV to see if you have 110v in the camper
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Yes, try this with the trailer hooked up to your house outlet, to see if you do indeed have 120 volt power going into the trailer first. Then we will troubleshoot the converter.
__________________
 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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10-17-2013, 09:46 AM
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#26
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daydreaming about camping
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhanna
UGH! Hubby has that rigged, too. It is a plug that only the TT can plug into, so I can't test it with anything else. :P
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that is a problem. Do you have a circuit tester/voltage meter? Or do you know if you have an adapter to convert that to a regular household style plug?
Until you can be sure you have juice at this outlet, not much sense in going through things in the camper.
Most likely scenario is that the household current has been interrupted, probably the breaker, and you ran the battery down.
__________________
2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 320BHDS pulled by a 2005 F250 King Ranch CC
A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
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10-17-2013, 09:46 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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She said it was a dedicated outlet so it may be 30/50 outlet that would make it hard to plug something in to. I agree that this is the right approach. An alternate test: Is the display on the microwave showing anything so that you know it has power?
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10-17-2013, 09:51 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Texas - east of San Antonio
Posts: 305
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TT plugged in = microwave works. So it is getting power from the plug.
So somehow, the battery seems to have died? I think I'm confused? 
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10-17-2013, 09:51 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 513
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Zhanna, I just found the operators manual for the distribution center (converter) that was in our Flagstaff. It has troubleshooting procedures in it. But, you need to disconnect the battery and take some voltage readings. Not sure if you have that ability. Also, the manual has a number to call for tech support. I may help you to get a live person on a 1:1 call. So, open the front cover of your RV distribution center (where the breakers and fuses are) and see if the manufacturer is WFCO. If it is, then try calling tech support at this number, 877-294-8997.
__________________
North Carolina born and bred
2010 Sandpiper 345RET
2011 2500 Duramax Silverado
2001 Centurion Elite Bowrider direct drive
"Old water skier"
Jesus Christ my Saviour
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10-17-2013, 09:57 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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So then the Converter (Battery Charger) isn't working. Either:
- The breaker for it is tripped. Find it in the fuse/breaker panel. Turn it off and back on. (It's usually labelled "Con")
-The reverse-polarity fuses on the Converter are blown (per wmtire). They are also in the fuse/breaker panel area.
- The Converter has died. (Time to replace it with a better Progressive Dynamics unit after following the diagnosis steps.)
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10-17-2013, 10:06 AM
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#31
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhanna
TT plugged in = microwave works. So it is getting power from the plug.
So somehow, the battery seems to have died? I think I'm confused? |
Zhanna, the battery is 12 volts and powers the things that work off of 12 volts DC (ie slides, lights, furnace, propane leak detector) etc........ it works like your vehicle would.
Your television, microwave, outlets, and air-conditioner ONLY work off of 120 volts AC power......like your house would. If you are not plugged into a form of 120 volt AC shore power, you cannot use the four things aforementioned in your trailer..................but can everything else that is 12 volt because you have a battery.
Since you have two totally different power sources needed for your travel trailer.................they added what is called a converter. This converter will take 120 volts AC and convert it to 12 volts DC to power the 12 volt things instead of the battery. So, when your are plugged into an electrical outlet, the 120 volt stuff is powered.... and thru the converter, the 12 volt stuff is powered.
If you are not hooked into 120 volts AC power, then the converter doesn't work...thus all the 12 volt stuff runs purely off of the battery.
One more function of the converter is to actually recharge your battery when you are plugged into 120 volts AC power.
If for some reason the converter is not working properly, even though you are plugged into 120 volts AC, the converter is not providing power to the 12 volt stuff, but instead your battery is. Your battery has most likely run itself down, because the converter isn't recharging it.
You said your fridge was working off of propane. Even the fridge needs 12 vol DC power to run the control panel for it. If the converter isn't providing the power, the battery is...and is thus running down.
This may explain it better:
http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformat...lectricity.asp
http://rveducation101.com/articles/RVConverters.pdf
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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10-17-2013, 10:06 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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By the way, you can find that trouble shooting guide, along with the manuals for several different Converter models, in the FRF Library. Here's a link to that guide: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...?do=file&id=24
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10-17-2013, 10:19 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Texas - east of San Antonio
Posts: 305
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OK. I went out and disconnected the negative terminal on the battery. The horrid beep stopped. I went inside to check the breakers again. The breaker labeled CONV is a double 15 and was on. I switched it to off and the beep came on. I turned it back to on and the beep stopped. So I left the battery disconnected and came back here.
Thanks for the links, I'll go check them out. Is changing out the converter something I could do, or should I wait for hubby?
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10-17-2013, 10:19 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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If it's not just a fuse/breaker, I would suggest that you contact a mobile RV mechanic. They might be able to get you on the road for your weekend. (That's not likely to happen with a dealer. I suspect your nearby Camping World wouldn't be fast enough either but you could check.)
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10-17-2013, 10:26 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhanna
...
I turned it back to on and the beep stopped. So I left the battery disconnected and came back here. Thanks for the links, I'll go check them out. Is changing out the converter something I could do, or should I wait for hubby?
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Do you have lights in the RV now (with the battery disconnected)? If so, the converter is working at least to some extent (and it's starting to sound like a bad/shorted battery). I still think you need to check those reverse-polarity fuses on the Converter.
No, I don't think that's something you could do yourself, and certainly not without doing the trouble-shooting steps first.
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10-17-2013, 10:32 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Texas - east of San Antonio
Posts: 305
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No lights. I don't know how to check the reverse-polarity thingy. I'm thinking it must be the converter. The TT is a 2007, so that has to be it.
Also, should I turn the fridge off?
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10-17-2013, 10:36 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Texas - east of San Antonio
Posts: 305
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I turned the fridge off.
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10-17-2013, 10:44 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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If your hubby has a battery charger laying around somewhere, you might put the charger on the battery (with the wire disconnected as you have it now). If you can get the battery charged, you can just do a quasi-boondock camping experience this weekend where you just have to conserve battery power. Heck, even take that battery charger with you and you probably won't even have to do that "conserve" part.
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10-17-2013, 10:53 AM
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#39
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Wow this thread has exploded!
If indeed the converter is bad , there easy to replace.
Here's one removed from a wfco distribution center.
5 minute removal.
My question is she said fridge was on propane but it must have been on 110v as the propane option needs 12v to run the circuit board.... does 110v require 12v to run the circuit board?
Turbs
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10-17-2013, 11:01 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
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My question is she said fridge was on propane but it must have been on 110v as the propane option needs 12v to run the circuit board.... does 110v require 12v to run the circuit board?
Turbs
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On my RV it has to have the 12v too. Not sure if that was true in 2007 and on that model.
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