Need a complete fuse/breaker box and inverter

Xtanker1 · 11-07-2019, 01:06 AM

New to the forum. Just bought a 2004 FR Salem F37 toy hauler. The trailer had been repo'ed and either the former owner or a low life removed the fuse/breaker box and inverter. There's other minimal damage that can easily be repaired but would like to get power restored first.
Can anyone direct me to an original or correct replacement for these missing items or provide an image of their panel so I can search for a replacement?
Thanking you all in advance
Nigel

**Mr. Dan** · 11-07-2019, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xtanker1

New to the forum. Just bought a 2004 FR Salem F37 toy hauler. The trailer had been repo'ed and either the former owner or a low life removed the fuse/breaker box and inverter. There's other minimal damage that can easily be repaired but would like to get power restored first.
Can anyone direct me to an original or correct replacement for these missing items or provide an image of their panel so I can search for a replacement?
Thanking you all in advance
Nigel

I’m sure you mean CONverter, not INverter, right? ... the gadget that alters 120vAC into 12vDC.

cavie · 11-07-2019, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

I’m sure you mean CONverter, not INverter, right? ... the gadget that alters 120vAC into 12vDC.

fuse/breaker box and inverter.

He may have had both

cavie · 11-07-2019, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xtanker1

New to the forum. Just bought a 2004 FR Salem F37 toy hauler. The trailer had been repo'ed and either the former owner or a low life removed the fuse/breaker box and inverter. There's other minimal damage that can easily be repaired but would like to get power restored first.
Can anyone direct me to an original or correct replacement for these missing items or provide an image of their panel so I can search for a replacement?
Thanking you all in advance
Nigel

I would start by calling Salem. Give them your vin #. They can tell you what was in there. Someone here my also step in and tell you if they have the same year/model. Then go to Amazon a start shopping.

**Mr. Dan** · 11-07-2019, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

fuse/breaker box and inverter.

He may have had both

Maybe... but in a 2004?

**Bama Rambler** · 11-07-2019, 09:08 AM

Did it have 30 amp service or 50 amp service? Look at the connector on the side of the RV (if there is one) and it should tell you.

It may also help to take a picture of what's left of the wiring.

TitanMike · 11-07-2019, 10:31 AM

When I read phrases like "former owner or a low life removed the fuse/breaker box" I have a vision of someone merely taking a pair of diagonal cutters to all the wires attached instead of carefully unscrewing terminals, removing wires one at a time, and labeling them as to what they feed.

Hopefully it's as the OP described, minimal damage, but I fear he's being optimistic.

Here's hoping he got lucky.

nayther · 11-07-2019, 10:56 AM

the converters and distribution panels are fairly generic but you'll need to figure out what is powered and the proper fuse and breaker sizes, could be quite a challenge unless you find a similar trailer to copy.

I'm sure he has just a converter in a 2004 toy hauler. I have a WFCO 55 amp that I swapped out and can make a sweet deal

dward51 · 11-07-2019, 11:15 AM

Odds are it's a WFCO panel and converter. If you call the maker that is what they will sell as a replacement. There are better units out there and a lot of people pull their WFCO converter to install an upgraded model later. Might as well start with the upgrade since you have a blank spot to fill.

Depends on the size of your panel opening and since the F37 is a 5'er, I would presume it's a 50 amp panel you will be installing. I would suggest looking at the Progressive Dynamics models and more than likely you will need the 4500 series. Here is a link to their power centers (AC breakers/DC fuse panel/Converter all in one):

https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/power-centers/

I bought my Progress upgrade for my WFCO on Amazon (sold by Amazon) and that was the best price at the time, but check around as you can sometimes beat Amazon's prices.

If money is an issue, you can surely find WFCO units owners have pulled for less than new. They will work, and if you are good with keeping the stock converter there is no reason not to put back in a WFCO as they work just fine. It's sort of like to do want just a F150 base model or do you want the F150 Platinum trim model (upgraded with different options). Both will get you there though.

If it has an "inverter" also, you normally still have the Converter/Charger/DC/AC panel like above and the inverter is a 2nd device. So to restore basic power you can get the AC/DC panel and then replace the inverter later (if it has one).

**bikendan** · 11-07-2019, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

fuse/breaker box and inverter.

He may have had both

A 2004 Salem did not have a factory inverter, just a converter.
OP, your Salem almost certainly had a WFCO fuse/breaker box and CONverter.

ckeeling · 11-07-2019, 03:08 PM

Here is a good place to start. Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs.

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product-...f-8900-series/

**ependydad** · 11-07-2019, 03:31 PM

For purchasing, I'd start looking at BestConverter:
BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics

Xtanker1 · 11-08-2019, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

I’m sure you mean CONverter, not INverter, right? ... the gadget that alters 120vAC into 12vDC.

Looking at all the comments I'm beginning to wonder which I am looking for now(lol). It is the panel that has all the breakers but seems to also have either an inverter or converter. Going to have to dig deeper to find what was there. Thanks for your input though.

Xtanker1 · 11-08-2019, 12:15 AM

This is a logical way to start, hopefully they can supply info this far back. Thanks for the input.

Xtanker1 · 11-08-2019, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Did it have 30 amp service or 50 amp service? Look at the connector on the side of the RV (if there is one) and it should tell you.

It may also help to take a picture of what's left of the wiring.

It had 30A service, got pictures of the wiring which ill try and post. Cheers

Xtanker1 · 11-08-2019, 12:31 AM

Thank you all for your input and wisdom into this matter. In diggiong deeper it did indeed have a WFCO panel with a converter. Service is 30A not 50A so that is simple enough. The wires were neatly cut but there should be enough to reconnect to the box once purchased. It'll be a lengthy process of checking continuity to see what went where. Have a friend at work who is an electronic technologist whos going to give me a hand to acertain the source and feeds for all the wiring. Again thank you to all for your help, greatly appreciated. Ill post pictures with this post as I jump into it. Hopefully I can give you all a good laugh?

**Bama Rambler** · 11-08-2019, 08:36 AM

I have a PEC 8930 that I pulled out of our RV when I upgraded to 50 amp service that is in great condition. If we were closer together, I'd be glad to ship it to you, but the shipping cost to Abbotsford is about as much as a new unit.

cavie · 11-09-2019, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xtanker1

Thank you all for your input and wisdom into this matter. In diggiong deeper it did indeed have a WFCO panel with a converter. Service is 30A not 50A so that is simple enough. The wires were neatly cut but there should be enough to reconnect to the box once purchased. It'll be a lengthy process of checking continuity to see what went where. Have a friend at work who is an electronic technologist whos going to give me a hand to acertain the source and feeds for all the wiring. Again thank you to all for your help, greatly appreciated. Ill post pictures with this post as I jump into it. Hopefully I can give you all a good laugh?

If the wires are too short adding extensions inside the box for the 120 volt circuits is easily done with wire nuts and code compliant as long as they are INSIDE the box. 12 volt circuits can and are done outside the box without a junction box. If 120 volt is outside the box then you will need to put them in junction boxes. You can put more than one circuit in the j box. Be sure your tech buddy knows that the 120 volt Grounds and Neutrals must be separate and NOT bonded together. Each on their own bus bar.

Easy to do. No need to do any wire tracing. When your done you can label the breakers. It will look something like this

Main 30
A/C. 20
GFI 15 (This covers any outlet within 6' of a water supply including outside)
WH 15
Fridge 15 Fridge (may have others on with it)
MW 15
The rest can say General and will be 15.

10 ga wire = 30 amps 12 ga wire = 20 amps. 14 ga wire = 15 amps.

Your gonna need a wiring diagram for the proper size fuses for the 12 volt side of things. Not everything has it's own fuse. Control circuits supply 2-3 things. Such as Furnace, Fridge, WH, and Range hood can be all on the same circuit.

TitanMike · 11-09-2019, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xtanker1

Thank you all for your input and wisdom into this matter. In diggiong deeper it did indeed have a WFCO panel with a converter. Service is 30A not 50A so that is simple enough. The wires were neatly cut but there should be enough to reconnect to the box once purchased. It'll be a lengthy process of checking continuity to see what went where. Have a friend at work who is an electronic technologist whos going to give me a hand to acertain the source and feeds for all the wiring. Again thank you to all for your help, greatly appreciated. Ill post pictures with this post as I jump into it. Hopefully I can give you all a good laugh?

Tracing the wires can be made easier with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADHQCIO..._t1_B002FY00B8

A $25 tool that may save you some frustration. It can detect a "tone" that is injected into the line by the "Sender". This can help if the power connections are hard to access on devices like the furnace or TV antenna amplifier. Just locate with the probe by holding it close to the wire entrance to the device or the wall next to it.

Connect the "Transmitter" at the device being powered by the circuit at it's power inlet then use the probe to see which wire feeds it.

Just do all the circuit tracing with ALL (120v and 12v) power disconnected at it's source.

If you have a multimeter and soldering iron here's an easy "hack".

Take a 9 V battery and solder two lengths of wire to the terminals. Finish the ends of the wires with a couple of alligator clips.

Attach the 9 V battery to the power feed of the appliance (AC, Converter, water pump, etc) and then use the multimeter to check for power at the ends of the wires that were cut.

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