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Old 04-09-2016, 06:41 PM   #31
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You are beyond help. You need bigger than no 2 wire and you are just looking for trouble. Get some good local help.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:13 PM   #32
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I have did this before and I didn't blow anyone up, there will be a cover over the batteries. The batteries are strapped down. I bet anyone that has a residential refrigerator will not have 0000 gauge on the battery bank, mine did not.


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Old 04-09-2016, 09:25 PM   #33
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I like this guy's setup, although I would use even bigger cables for (4) batteries paired with a larger inverter:



Found here:

Critique my battery box and plans

Notice the use of heat shrink tubing so there are no bare wires - just the uncovered battery posts. So... some folks were stating that he could cover the battery posts for additional safety & use something other than the thin stock covers for the unused posts.

Remember, you are camping only a few feet away from other families with kids, pets, etc. Also, you may have to fix an issue with your battery box when it is dark & stormy, wind blowing, etc. and you don't want to drop a flashlight or tool into the box & short it out...
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:08 PM   #34
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Once I get everything set up I will not have to open the battery box. On my residential refrigerator the battery box I hardly every look at, those batteries are hard to get out. Cedar Creek did not put 0000 gauge cables in my Creek. Someone at the dealer could not even hook up the cables right, I had four six volt batteries but they were hooked up in a way that I had two 12 volt batteries and one 12 volt was not getting charged. The dealer couldn't even follow the diagram that was posted behind the batteries. I'm a safe person, I double and triple check what I do with batteries. Right now I can't afford solar, Alaska trip and all.


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Old 04-09-2016, 10:28 PM   #35
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Hello OP

To answer your first question. You can parallel the wires out of the inverter. I would buy two new switches and eliminate the knife switches. Also you do need a fuse in the positive line. I would also make sure the batteries are clamped tight not just a ratchet strap holding them together. A plastic battery box could be used to mount the switches and fuses to make a neat install.

Switch http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_16035.jpg

Make sure you size any wiring for the load and drop a size. Bigger is better. Lower resistance will mean better performance.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:11 AM   #36
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I really like the knife switches, I have used them for a long time and at a glance I know if they are off or on. You buy what you like. I am going to order a TM-2030 and they sell fuses. I needed some more cables so I plan to get 2/0. The cables in my other bank of batteries will stay the same. I needed some new cables anyway and I try to keep the cables as short as possible. I still wish I had not took a picture of the batteries.


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Old 04-10-2016, 08:20 AM   #37
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The HF website does not give the switch specs, but I have seen similar and they are only capable of 250 amps sustained.




Depending on your inverter sizing & loads, that may be exceeded. Like everything I do, I design/plan on using above minimums for best results. Typically I use Perko, Guest, Blue Seas, Marinco, or similar with a minimum of 350amp ratings. They are obviously significantly more expensive, but ... Up to each to decide.


My new favorite is the Marinco 770-ez. Wire from front and has a continuous 400 amp rating that will probably never be reached in most applications. There are others in the 500+amp range if necessary.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:35 AM   #38
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You guys are spending too much time reading specs and building for the edge. 250 amps is a lot of current even with a big inverter. In fact, on the Trojan discharge curve for T-105 deep cycle batteries, 250 amps is at the very high end of the curve and can only be sustained for maybe 30 minutes!

A 21 cubic foot residential reefer only draws 80 amps or so for maybe 10 minutes and a 1500 watt microwave maybe 120 amps.

Let's get real, we are not driving nuclear power plants. Sure heavier cable will cut the voltage drop but don't go into the ampacity calculators with 200 amps! Let's not confuse fuse ratings with continuous loads. They are for shorts and catastrophic situations, not average loads.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:39 AM   #39
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Instead of dismissing those that try to assist, some should think further. I am able to run EVERYTHING (including AC for cooling) at the same time off my inverter as if I was pluged into a 30 amp shore cord. 250 is not enough. There should always be an excess when doing electrical design or efficiency and safety will be compromised. The only disadvantage of upsizing is cost and weight. If managed correctly, those are not issues either.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:55 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25FKS View Post
... If managed correctly, those are not issues either.
Perhaps but 250 is all there is! Look at the specs for your spanking new T-105s. Sure you can run everything...for how long? Looks to me like about 35 minutes per pair...and that is to 10.5 volts...i.e. totally discharged...totally dead...0% SOC! Both banks together would be 70 minutes and that is really an optimistic number. Then how you gonna charge them cause if you don't do it right away they will be permanently damaged.

And that is only at 250 amps or the equivalent of 25 amps of shore power.

Look for yourself. http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/dat...ata_Sheets.pdf
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