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Old 11-13-2013, 12:10 PM   #21
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Ah got it.
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:53 PM   #22
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My kind of thread!

So i just bought a Shockwave 24FQMX that also has the 160w solar panel. I have just been lurking for now. I was planning on making a build thread when i was closer to being 100% done. But here is a taste.

Here is a list of things i have done that are pertinent to this thread.

-Trimetec 2025RV. First thing you need if you have any questions about how much you are drawing from the batts. For now i mounted this on the access panel under the fridge next to the breaker panel. I mounted the shunt on to the frame by the batteries. there is a good spot underneath next to the other fuses.

-Trojan T145 plus. These are the same foot print as the OEM batts but they are taller so i had to buy a couple new battery boxes.

-changed some things around in the AC side of the panel. before the converter was on the same circuit as the general ac circuits and the fridge was on the same circuit as the GFI outlets. I ended up putting the fridge and the converter to one circuit and put all of the outlets on to another circuit. the reason i did this is so that i could isolate all the outlets in the trailer and drive them from the inverter.

-Xantrex 15A automatic transfer switch. Mounted in the empty space under the fridge behind the access panel. the two sources are the inverter and the circuit breaker that used to fed my new "All outlets" circuit that i added. then the output feeds the two pieces of romex that go throughout the trailer and feed the outlets.

-Xantrex ProSine1000w inverter. Mounted inside the front storage bay. the inverter feeds one side of the transfer switch.

-Additional 160w panel. Mounted on the street side of the trailer next to the original 160w panel. I was able to find the exact same panel on ebay. expensive though as it was about $2 a watt with shipping. I used a MC4 "T" connector to integrate it with the factory solar wiring. I made my own hingin mounts with some door hinges and some angle aluminum. My house is in a really bad spot so i haven't really been able to do any solid tests yet. So far i can recover about 40Ah in one day. Hopefully that will double when i park it in a better spot. There is a significant voltage drop from the controller to the batts (0.6v) so i plan on eventually running new wires and most likely installing a real charge controller.

-Insignia 19" TV w/DVD player in front bedroom. My original plan was to run this tv 120v off of the inverter. But when i bought it i realized that it is a 12v TV. So i got the correct connector and hardwired it in to the trailer off of the hot side of the bedroom light switch. I picked up ground from the solar charge controller that is right next to the light. so far it is fine running direct for the batts. its seems to be ok with voltage 11.5 all the way up to 14.9 (when charging)

I would be happy to provide any more details that would help you out. Just let me know!

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Old 11-13-2013, 06:06 PM   #23
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Thanks for the detailed information. I am curious how you wired your outlets to the inverter. Also I tapped into the light switch for my 12 volt source for the tv and hooked up this wingard 12v adapter which I then have plugged into a small 75 watt inverter for my tv. Are you saying the wire from the light switch can be hooked up directly to the factory outlet and then plug your tv in?
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:22 PM   #24
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Inverter- I will try and draw out a diagram that shows what I did.

TV- In my case the TV i bought will take 12v directly. so there is no more transformer in line. The transformer that came with the TV and plugged into he wall just turned the 120v into 12v for the TV. So all i did was find the correct connector to plug into the back of he TV and hardwired it to the batts. No more inverters or 120v involved. But again that is because my TV will take 12v Directly.

Insignia 19" Class 1812" Diag. LED 720p 60Hz HDTV DVD Combo NS-19ED200NA14 - Best Buy
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:30 PM   #25
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I don't think the tv's I bought from Walmart are 12 volts. If I hard wire the power from the light switch to the outlet for the tv will that work? Or will it blow a fuse ? I want to be able to plug my tv in the bed room and the Living-room to the outlets that are where the tv's are located.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:19 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jjs2000z View Post
I don't think the tv's I bought from Walmart are 12 volts. If I hard wire the power from the light switch to the outlet for the tv will that work? Or will it blow a fuse ? I want to be able to plug my tv in the bed room and the Living-room to the outlets that are where the tv's are located.
The light switch is 12v so no.
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I don't think the tv's I bought from Walmart are 12 volts. If I hard wire the power from the light switch to the outlet for the tv will that work? Or will it blow a fuse ? I want to be able to plug my tv in the bed room and the Living-room to the outlets that are where the tv's are located.
You could wire in a 12 receptacle like the picture you posted and then use a small inverter to run your TV.
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:44 AM   #28
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What about something like this:
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:46 AM   #29
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That should be fine as long as it can deliver enough wattage to turn on the TV.
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:48 AM   #30
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I purchased a led LCD tv max watts 30. I am getting this from Walmart for $14.
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