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Old 08-24-2016, 07:03 PM   #11
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So grateful for all the advice! We're still trying to figure this out and appreciating any insight. So a voltage meter would be a smart thing to get and keep with us to check any future sites to make sure that the output is what it ought to be, right?

We're in touch with the couple who sold it to us, and we're under the impression that they never had any of these problems. However, they could be: not telling the truth (though that seems unlikely, as they've been very helpful in the past with teaching us how to use it, even talking to us on the phone when we were camping and trying to help us figure it out); not experienced with more rustic sites (we were in an electric site at a national forest campground, and I think they tended toward RV parks when using it); not understanding what we're describing since we're maybe not always explaining it the best. For example, we also had trouble filling the water tank and thought we had damaged something since water was coming out the bottom. Turns out the valve was open but no one had even told us that a valve existed! So we're learning as we go.

So the advice so far is: Check the voltage of a campsite, and use no extension cord when possible, a high powered one when necessary.

We didn't have the water pump or water heater on at all (due to not being able to fill the tank!) but used TVs (plugged into AV outlets), refrigerator (usually on AC, though had it on gas for a while when we thought that might fix the problem), sometimes a fan (plugged into AC outlets), once A/C for a couple of hours early in the trip (I think that uses DC?), and the lights, which were always the canary in the coal mine that told us when we were out of power. Is there an easy way to check the converter and tell whether it's the problem? We're also going to try to talk again with the couple we bought it from and see if they can help us out!

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Old 08-24-2016, 08:06 PM   #12
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Location: Butler, Pa.
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Hello. You didn't say what year Sunseeker you have. On my 2011 Sunseeker there is a battery disconnect switch. Make sure it is turned on when on shore power to keep your battery charged. On my unit the switch is located on the left side of the entry door by the power awning switch and porch light.

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Old 08-24-2016, 10:19 PM   #13
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You need more than a voltage meter at the plug in. You need to be able to measure AT LEAST voltage at various points in the is also very helpful to be able to measure current...and continuity (ohms) to check wire connections.
Suggest you get an AC/DC clamp meter to be able to do everything you need to trouble shoot an electircal or charging issue. Like this one. Comes complete with easy to follow instructions and there are lots of short YOU tube video on testing voltage, current and continuity.

You won't regret the purchase. In the meantime...borrow a cheap multimeter from a friend and go right to your battery terminals while the Sunseeker is plugged in. You should find more than 13.4V as a readout on those battery terminals if your charger is working correctly AND your switch (see post #12) is in the right position.
If you try the switch in both positions and still don't get 13.4V+ then you need to take a voltage reading at the TERMINALS of the charger. If you don't have 13.4V there then the charger (converter) has a problem...fuse or connection to AC.
Good luck!
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:24 AM   #14
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Location: Ballwin, MO
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Voltmeter, USB and cigarette lighter charger

I found this combination voltmeter, cigarette lighter and usb charger. When charging it reads 13.7vdc telling me the converter is good, 13.6vdc when towing telling me it is charging through my 7 pin towing cable and 12.6vdc when not charging.

You need to maintain the battery. Install a disconnect switch to turn it off or make sure you charge it once a week to top it off. Or pull the breaker on your LPG detector. I suggest removing the LPG detector by cutting and capping the wires and see if there is any other battery drain. LPG detectors should be replaced every few years.

Anyway, this device is great to see voltage and charge your devices. Leave the phone chargers at home.
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:31 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
If you try the switch in both positions and still don't get 13.4V+ then you need to take a voltage reading at the TERMINALS of the charger. If you don't have 13.4V there then the charger (converter) has a problem...fuse or connection to AC.
Good luck!
Don't forget you must remove the battery from the circuit to run this part of the test. There are several failure modes that will shut the converter down and prevent it from powering up (like a short in the battery or in the wires/fuses to and from the battery.

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Old 08-26-2016, 10:54 AM   #16
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Location: Ontario, California
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Originally Posted by Kendra_R View Post
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the insight. The current house battery is new, purchased in the last week. And I checked and replaced the fuses in the converter, though there might be bad connections there. I will definitely look at the extension cord and at the prongs to make sure everything is strong and shiny.

In general, is a 30-amp site going to provide enough power for a Sunseeker? Should we just be looking for higher-amp sites?
A 30 amp service still requires some caution. For instance don't try to run the air conditioner and the microwave without watching your voltage closely. We keep 110 volt analog meter plugged into an outlet by the kitchen so we can watch our voltage all the time. If the amperage is a problem it'll blow the circuit breaker. If the voltage drops it may not blow the circuit breaker but it could damage your Motors and your electronics. On a warm day the park voltage can start out too low. I go off park power and on to our generator if the voltage measured at the outlet in the kitchen drops below 109 vac.

As far as the 12 volt system which Powers your lights, the control circuit for your refrigerator and The High demand item, the water pump, an intermittent problem is likely to be a poor electrical connection or connections. Check the connections at the distribution panel OF COURSE the ground between the batteries and the frame.

A bad ground may not be obvious with just a volt meter because the meter doesn't draw enough load to show the loss so check voltage at the battery while de cycles the water pump. If voltage holds at the battery but lights are dimming check voltage at the input at the distribution panel and repeat the test until you isolate the problem.

Good luck. Tom
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Old 08-29-2016, 06:38 PM   #17
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You did not mentioned which year is your Sunseeker.
All the ones I've seen are carrying 2 house batteries; is that your case?
You did say battery, how is your setup?

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