Newbie here: converter/battery question

[gectisme]

One thing, it sounds like you are not familiar with electricity. If that is the case, be safe, the 120v side can easily kill you. the 12v side can, but I would more worried about getting burnt by shorting something on the 12v side, (ring, jewerly, etc.). You mentioned you are working in an area where there are not many people around. If you are undertaking the troubleshooting suggested, make sure you let someone know where you are and have them check on you at regular intervals. Better yet bring someone along. If they too are not familiar with electricity, make sure if you do get shocked and happen to be stuck to what ever is shocking you, they remove power before touching you or they too will get the shock.
Be safe and

[Flybob]

You are trying to combine THREE different unrelated problems into one and find a solution. You need to trouble shoot as three different problems. Pick which one is most important , fix it then move on to the next one.
Your problems are : ( in no particular order)

1. No AC power in RV when connected to shore power (Symptom AC outlets not working and no display on microwave)
2. No DC power in RV (Symptom interior lights do not work and Co/Propane detector has no lights lit)
3. 12V trailer running, stop, turn lights do not work (Symptom no running lights on trailer when connected to TV.

Each of these issues present themselves in different ways and have different solutions. I suggest picking one working with forum members to find a solution and then moving on. Trying to solve all three at once will result in a prolonged effort.

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by Flybob

You are trying to combine THREE different unrelated problems into one and find a solution. You need to trouble shoot as three different problems. Pick which one is most important , fix it then move on to the next one.
Your problems are : ( in no particular order)

1. No AC power in RV when connected to shore power (Symptom AC outlets not working and no display on microwave)
2. No DC power in RV (Symptom interior lights do not work and Co/Propane detector has no lights lit)
3. 12V trailer running, stop, turn lights do not work (Symptom no running lights on trailer when connected to TV.

Each of these issues present themselves in different ways and have different solutions. I suggest picking one working with forum members to find a solution and then moving on. Trying to solve all three at once will result in a prolonged effort.

X2... F, that was what I was trying to say (see #28). To me, you can't tow it without trailer lights, so I would tackle that first, where nothing works "(save for the rear driver-side blinker)" It is probably a corroded 7 pin plug, but the issue could be the truck / TV. Maybe he hasn't had time to retest??
WW

[Herk7769]

It will be impossible to troubleshoot the truck/camper running light problem without a more complete knowledge of how to use a multi-meter to trace voltage and resistance. Bad frame grounds due to corrosion while in storage will result in wonky running lights and failure of the tow vehicle to charge the battery.

He also can not tow (legally) without a working battery and electric emergency brakes. He will need to know about the multi-meter to check out those.

I really, really, recommend a trusted mechanic come to his storage location with him and check out this camper.

[Flybob]

You mentioned several times that there are other RVs stored where yours was. You might try to contact one of the owners and ask for help. I might be worth a nice bottle of wine or case of beer to have someone familiar with RV electrical systems to spend an hour or two with you.