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Old 06-08-2013, 04:59 PM   #21
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I did try it in both positions by know it's supposed to be in to connect but on the chance that it might be a faulty switch, I just took it off and connected the two wires. Still nothing. I'll mention again that when I try to do the battery with only 12v, the bottom few lights will light up a fraction of a second then it's all dead again. I don't know it that's a result of having the 110AC on earlier but thought I'd mention it.

I reply to the last post by Barry: I measured the voltage from a postive to a screw on a metal junction box mounted on the frame. In the distribution box, I measured from negative to postive terminals.
I'm at a loss but thinking there's a loose Connection somewhere.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:03 PM   #22
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Did you look for the battery shut off switch in coach? Always fun to know if it has been turned off by mistake.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:07 PM   #23
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Here is what I would do: make sure you are not connected to house power. Measure voltage at battery post, should be above 12 volts. If Ok, measure from positive post of battery to frame of trailer, again should be above 12 volts. If all OK, then while you are measuring 12 volts from battery to frame, have your wife operate one slide and see if voltage changes, a high resistance ground to the frame could be the issue. You can still have 12 volts while no load applied but as soon you have a load, current might not pass at ground connection. Also have you physically checked each fuse in power panel if not burnt, by pulling them out? Are the 12 volts lights working in trailer? Have you look for slide fuses underneath the trailer?
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:00 PM   #24
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I've done about everyhthing mentioned up to now. I haven't checked to see what the voltage does when the slide switches are tried. I'll have to get a friend to do that with me. I have physically checked every fuse in the panel and then physically and electronically checked the breaker on the tongue frame which has three wires on the battery side and three fused wires on the other side that have fuses on them. They all show a little over 12 volts.

As far as the slides go: That's what started the whole thing off. Zilch! I wish I had confidence in the guys at the dealership who "checked" everything out. I do remember that they were hooking up to outside power and not using the 12v system, unless they did that before I got there.
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:16 PM   #25
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I've done about everyhthing mentioned up to now. I haven't checked to see what the voltage does when the slide switches are tried. I'll have to get a friend to do that with me. I have physically checked every fuse in the panel and then physically and electronically checked the breaker on the tongue frame which has three wires on the battery side and three fused wires on the other side that have fuses on them. They all show a little over 12 volts.

As far as the slides go: That's what started the whole thing off. Zilch! I wish I had confidence in the guys at the dealership who "checked" everything out. I do remember that they were hooking up to outside power and not using the 12v system, unless they did that before I got there.
Technically they will open without hooked to shore power.
Did you say u checked power at the switches?
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:21 PM   #26
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No

I haven't checked power at the back of the switches since nothing works on the 12V. No lights, no water pump, nothing. Think I should go do the switches?
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:30 PM   #27
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Did you find a master switch in the coach and make sure it is "ON"?
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:31 PM   #28
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Is you battery disconnect switch located as in this post?

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ion-41577.html
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:34 PM   #29
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Do the lights work when plugged into 120 volts? Have you tried moving the slides when plugged into 120 volts?
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:35 PM   #30
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I think it almost has to be a ground problem? Do you have 12 volts at the distribution panel between dc common and the heavy gauge wire from the battery.?
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:36 PM   #31
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The battery disconnect switch is in the bathroom. I don't know that there's a "master switch". That would be nice except I have to believe that a master switch would cut off everything and not just the 12V. I hope there's one somewhere and that's all it is.

I did just go out and check the back of the slide switches, etc. Nothing.

Everything works with the 120AC.
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:36 PM   #32
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I think it almost has to be a ground problem? Do you have 12 volts at the distribution panel between dc common and the heavy gauge wire from the battery.?
Thinkin ur right
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:39 PM   #33
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By master switch I meant the one in bathroom. It should be 12 volt only
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:39 PM   #34
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Just checked between the main negative terminal and the positive terminal in the distributor. Nothing! I didn't check for 12 volts at the disconnect switch but did short across it. I'll have to find out if I've got a common ground close by.

OK Just by-passed the battery disconnect swith and checked the battery postive in the distributor and with the common ground on the panel. Nothing.

Someone please tell me where the "master switch" is. I'm having a hard time believing that the guys at the dealership really checked the 12V system as I can't imagine something would jiggle loose after I took delivery.

And I just checked the negative cable on the battery itself to make sure it was grounded. Good there.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:12 PM   #35
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Just checked between the main negative terminal and the positive terminal in the distributor. Nothing! I didn't check for 12 volts at the disconnect switch but did short across it. I'll have to find out if I've got a common ground close by.

OK Just by-passed the battery disconnect swith and checked the battery postive in the distributor and with the common ground on the panel. Nothing.

Someone please tell me where the "master switch" is. I'm having a hard time believing that the guys at the dealership really checked the 12V system as I can't imagine something would jiggle loose after I took delivery.

And I just checked the negative cable on the battery itself to make sure it was grounded. Good there.
I'm not familiar with ur model maybe call the dealer monday?
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:19 PM   #36
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I was speaking with "tongue in cheek" Turbo. I don't think there's a "master switch". I've got the switch panel and converter pulled clear out of the wall plus just took off the doors below the sink which house the furnace and hoards of wires. Those doors are screwed on. So tomorrow, I'll see what I can trace back. Something is really messed up. I've got an appointment to take the unit over to an RV dealer on Thursday. In the meantime, I'm gonna try to get the solar system on as well as an inverter.

Thanks for the help anyway and to those who tried.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:27 PM   #37
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I was speaking with "tongue in cheek" Turbo. I don't think there's a "master switch". I've got the switch panel and converter pulled clear out of the wall plus just took off the doors below the sink which house the furnace and hoards of wires. Those doors are screwed on. So tomorrow, I'll see what I can trace back. Something is really messed up. I've got an appointment to take the unit over to an RV dealer on Thursday. In the meantime, I'm gonna try to get the solar system on as well as an inverter.

Thanks for the help anyway and to those who tried.
Please let us know what u come up with.
Sorry this has happened on a new unit.
Good luck!


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Old 06-09-2013, 06:51 PM   #38
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Get Ready For This!

Four eyes are better than two.

My daughter and son-in-law came up to visit today. I'd already told him about the problem. We took the volt/ohm meter out and started doing all the checks I'd done in the TT then he went out to the tongue and to the breaker on the frame. He took the cover off of the junction box that I'd used for a ground and after a bit he said, "What-t-t-t-? Someone at the factory or the RV dealership had taken the positive battery wire off the right side of the breaker and tucked it up underneath a large black cable out of sight. He said the end had never been on the breaker terminal screw. That was the problem.

We're suspecting that it was a factory error but for sure, the guys at the RV dealership never checked out the 12V system. They wanted the AC on.

So tomorrow I'm starting to install the solar system and inverter.

Thanks again to all who tried to figure the thing out.
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:03 PM   #39
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...
Someone at the factory or the RV dealership had taken the positive battery wire off the right side of the breaker and tucked it up underneath a large black cable out of sight. He said the end had never been on the breaker terminal screw. That was the problem.
So how did you ever measure 12v at the breaker with you voltmeter then?
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:17 PM   #40
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So how did you ever measure 12v at the breaker with you voltmeter then?
X. it musta been the voltage goblins...
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