No 12v off battery?

DCRC · 10-02-2010, 09:35 AM

Just got back from a trip to discover I have no 12V off the battery for lights, fridge, etc...

The battery is good and both slide outs function properly, as well as the tongue jack, but I believe they both run straight of the battery and not through the converter distribution panel. Everything works fine when I the trailer is plugged in to 30A service. Only have 12v issue when trying to run off battery.

The part that scares me is that I did weld in a new crossmember for my stabilizer jacks before I left for the trip. Hope it is just a ground problem.

Were do I need to start looking?

Boyd · 10-02-2010, 09:58 AM

Doubt that it is a ground problem as your slides are working. First things first...Check your breaker box see if one or more of your breakers tripped.

milzat · 10-02-2010, 10:12 AM

Check the Circuit Breaker under the front of the trailer, between the "A frame" tongue.
It may be tripped, gone bad or have a bad connection at the eyelet post.

Some are auto re-set and some are manual re-set. The manual re-set has a small button on the side of the breaker.

DCRC · 10-02-2010, 10:13 AM

Just to clarify everything works fine when the trailer is plugged in.

Problem only shows when trying to run off battery. I'll check those breakers. I do have a multimeter. I do remember now that I had no issues running off the battery on the way up there, so know don't think I did anything welding on the trailer prior to the trip.

I guess I need to see if I am getting 12v to the converter when on battery to try and isolate the problem. Never messed with one of these converters.

Do I just unscrew it and slide it out enough to be able to check for 12 volts?

08flagvlite · 10-02-2010, 11:35 AM

DCRC, my camper worked fine when plugged in, as well, and the relay that mike is talking about was corroded, after just 4 months old! When plugged in to my truck, everything worked, but when unplugged, the only things working were the slide outs and the power tongue jack. Check the relay, I'll bet it's your problem!

jimh · 10-02-2010, 11:44 AM

i wouldn't suspect the converter. i would suspect a breaker between the battery and the converter. battery is good. converter supplies 12 volt while on shore power... my 1984 had a relay within the converter that switched between the battery and the converter. on shore power it switched to the converter and had a seperate circuit charging the bat. when u unplugged from shore power, it switched to battery. i've been told the new converters are on line all the time...they don't switch.
when ur plugged into the toe viehicle, does ur frig and dc lighting (inside the trailer) work?

u have a multimeter, check the 12 volt leads coming from the bat to the converter and see if u have voltage (with shore power unplugged). if u do and its not making it thru the converter to the dc panel. u may have a converter that switches the battery out when u plugg into shore power. you could also have a fuse or circuit breaker that disconnects the battery form the dc fuse panel. if u have dc from the bat up to the converter, the fuse or breaker should be on or near the converter.

DCRC · 10-02-2010, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08flagvlite

DCRC, my camper worked fine when plugged in, as well, and the relay that mike is talking about was corroded, after just 4 months old! When plugged in to my truck, everything worked, but when unplugged, the only things working were the slide outs and the power tongue jack. Check the relay, I'll bet it's your problem!

Will do as soon as the wife gets back here to watch the little one and will report back with my findings.

jimh · 10-02-2010, 11:59 AM

after rereading ur post, there must be a fuse or breaker between the battery and the fuse panel and the power from the toe viehicle must come in on the fuse panel side of that fuse or breaker...i don't believe i would have suspected that.

DCRC · 10-02-2010, 12:57 PM

Found the problem !

The 12v + wire at the circuit breaker, was pulled out of the ring terminal at the crimp on the circuit breaker under the A frame. It was on the converter side of the breakers as this explain why the slides and tonge jack were still working.

Probably not a good crimp to begin with, but I'm sure I didn't help things as I was messing with those wires before my trip when I replaced the wimpy crossmemeber for the front stabilzers "C" jacks.

Just glad it was something simple and I found it. Thanks for the help.

By the way my circuit breaker has the manual reset button on it as well.

08flagvlite · 10-02-2010, 03:01 PM

I just love happy endings!! Randy

DAISY BOYKIN · 10-02-2010, 03:35 PM

On 12 Volt systems where ring crimps are used, especially where they are high AMP draw should be soldered! After 28 years in the communications business, I found crimps to be an on going problem unless they were soldered.

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