No brakes on trailer!

[Hudgen]

We have a 2017 Surveyor 251RKS and the brakes suddenly quit working. I thought it might be the TV Prodigy P2 brake controller but I measure zero volts at the plug and with the brake peddle down it measures 4.8VDC. I called the Tekonsha help line and they said that those voltages are correct.

When I press the TV brake peddle, all I hear is a loud buzz from the trailer axle and nothing happens - no brakes apply at all.

Anybody have any ideas?

[merlinhomeauto]

Sounds like they need adjusting.

[Hudgen]

merlinhomeauto - could all 4 wheels be that far out of adjustment with only 200 miles and 6 months old?

[NMWildcat]

I'd pull 'em off and take a look. True, they might need adjusting, but they wouldn't just stop working suddenly. Could be several things. Sounds like a power problem if they buzz but don't apply. So check it at the 7way plug and before the magnets also. Check the grounds for corrosion or looseness. Good luck!

[Hudgen]

Guess I'll pull one apart tomorrow to see what's up . . .
Thanks guys, I'll let you know what I find!

[deartruc]

My breakaway switch melted. (Probably due to a body shop mis-wiring from a rear ender on my TV in January. Owner sweared it was wired correctly and tested it on his boat trailer). Son and I found the wires were off by one clock click. When we got that straightened out the trailer breaks still didn't work. I pulled the breakaway cable and the plastic separator was melted. Try pulling the cable out of yours.

[Bama Rambler]

The magnets buzzing are pretty normal, but it shouldn't be very loud.

I think pulling the hubs and inspecting them is the best thing to do.

[JJaxon]

Unless the OP is experienced in setting /adjusting brakes, he is best advised to go to the dealer, explain this is a safety item, not a luxury. Insist they check them and adjust or fix on the spot. It is within warranty I assume. If they say we can't get you in, call the manufacturer and insist they cover your costs at a brake shop for repair. Trailer brakes are fairly simple, but if they are not working they are useless, and dangerous. It's time to play hardball with the dealer / manufacturer. Grab a bat, you're up.

[TGR]

With the tow vehicle’s brakes fully engaged, having 4.8 VDC between pins 1 and 2 on your tow vehicle’s 7-pin trailer connector is too low unless the controller is doing something fancy with the open brake voltage. Perhaps the controller's gain is too low. If that’s the case, then turn up your controller gain.

I recommend you check the tow vehicle’s voltage between pins 1 and 2 again with the breaks fully applied and the brake controller’s gain set to maximum. I would expect over 12 VDC.

One way to see if the problem is with the brakes would be to pull the brakeaway switch and try a short pull test of 3 or 4 feet. If you have significant braking from a dead stop then the brakes themselves are fine. Just don’t keep the brakeaway switch pulled for more than a minute or so as it can overheat.

Dexter has a procedure for troubleshooting your brakes, including how to burnish the brake shoes on new brakes.

https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa....pdf?sfvrsn=18

[ramsaytwp]

Sounds to me like the unit is still under warranty. Would it not be best to bring it to the dealer or a dealer and have it fixed under the warranty?

[DDC]

If it's still under warranty take it to the dealer.

[CedarCreekWoody]

I'm not familiar with your controller but some controllers use inertia/momentum of a moving vehicle to apply the brakes when motion is reduced. Pressing the pedal when stationary does not fully apply the brakes. Have you tried pulling the breakaway pin? This would apply full braking pressure with a charged battery.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by JJaxon

Unless the OP is experienced in setting /adjusting brakes, he is best advised to go to the dealer, explain this is a safety item, not a luxury. Insist they check them and adjust or fix on the spot. It is within warranty I assume. If they say we can't get you in, call the manufacturer and insist they cover your costs at a brake shop for repair. Trailer brakes are fairly simple, but if they are not working they are useless, and dangerous. It's time to play hardball with the dealer / manufacturer. Grab a bat, you're up.

X2, well put!

[babock]

Need to check the voltage while applying the manual lever at a very high gain. Then you can actually get the full voltage from the brake controller. Then you can try the break away lever.

You can also do an ohm test . Each magnet is 3.0 to 3.8 ohms. With 4 magnets in parallel, it will be very low...less than an ohm. If you measure something higher, you have an open to one or more magnets.

[wildcatter]

If you have a friend that has a truck with the right hitch or you can put your hitch on their truck and test it, several years ago I had the same problem with my travel trailer, I took it back to the dealer they used their truck and the brakes worked fine, hooked it up a friends truck and they worked fine, I found corrosion on the back side of the 7 pin on my truck, cleaned up the connections and applied some dielectric grease (several times a year), problem solved.

[Hudgen]

Found the problem was the brake controller. It had good voltage but under load it dropped to 9 volts. Replaced it and all is fine!

Thanks for the help everyone 😀

[Restcure]

Thanks for getting back to us with the cause.

[Bama Rambler]

Glad you got it figured out and came back and let us know what it was.

Can you tell us what the controller was?

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Glad you got it figured out and came back and let us know what it was.

Can you tell us what the controller was?

See Post #1...

[Hudgen]

The manufacturer replaced the 4 year old Prodigy controller at no charge. Good customer service!