No power, help!

[LJ_Sha]

AC seems to be fine and reset the converter breaker still same issues.

[Brother Les]

Back your truck up to your unit and unplug from the 110v pedistal and plug your truck into the 7-point plug and while your truck is running, see if you have 12v to your systems.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by LJ_Sha

AC seems to be fine and reset the converter breaker still same issues.

Now you are looking for your current limiters - 1 by the battery and one up under your pin box.

If you can wait till daylight, it will go a lot easier.
The reset button is popped in this photo.

If you find one popped just push it in.

[RJHuser]

Due to what Lou said, one of the first mods I did was to get another breaker and move the converter to it, separating the plugs from the converter. Also, it really not a good idea to wire two wires to one connection on a breaker (I believe it's against code in residential usage)

Rick

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Now you are looking for your current limiters - 1 by the battery and one up under your pin box.

If you can wait till daylight, it will go a lot easier.
The reset button is popped in this photo.

If you find one popped just push it in.

Even with this fuse popped, should not the converter be able to run some lights and maybe the fridge with out the units battery? Yes, lower voltage without the charged battery and very dim, but I would think that some systems would work if the converter is working.

[raspivey]

Correct. You could completely disconnect the battery and run the interior 12V with the converter. Slides, etc. may be a different story. I check both sides a week or so before I head out. I'll plug in with all breakers off and turn on all the lights and check all the 12V operation. Then I'll switch all the breakers on and throw the disconnect. All the lights will stay on if it's working properly.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Even with this fuse popped, should not the converter be able to run some lights and maybe the fridge with out the units battery? Yes, lower voltage without the charged battery and very dim, but I would think that some systems would work if the converter is working.

Let me think about that one. I want to agree with you, but I seem to recall when the limiter under the pin box went out due to corrosion, I had no DC at all until I cleaned the terminals.

The best way to see if the converter is working is to use a meter on the battery lugs (13+ volts). Measure the top and bottom lugs (that say POS and NEG) of the panel that has the blue fuses).

If the battery is dead or shorted, the converter will shut down to prevent damage to the converter and will not power up until the short is removed and the unit resets itself.

Corroded current limiters could short the converter to ground.

It is also possible the converter itself is bad, but until the circuits are eliminated I would not go right to replacement without trouble shooting some more.

[Redskinvol]

I agree about the DC circuit breaker, sounds like that's the problem, mine did the same when it was tripped, front landing gear wouldn't work or fridge and my lights would flicker. I reset it everything was fine, the photo that Herk7769 posted is what I'm calling the DC circuit breaker, I ordered 2 spares off ebay after the problem.

[SKnight]

This being a 5er, presumably with 50A, could one leg of the plug be dead? The way it was explained to me (I'm an expert on DC, but that back and forth AC nonsense warps my mind, so bear with me.).. is that one leg of the 110 50A supply feeds one half of the breaker box, the other leg feeds the other side.

Thus, if the park lost one leg, his outlets may appear fine, but the converter has lost power, allowing the 12V battery to run down.

Does that make sense?

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by SKnight

This being a 5er, presumably with 50A, could one leg of the plug be dead? The way it was explained to me (I'm an expert on DC, but that back and forth AC nonsense warps my mind, so bear with me.).. is that one leg of the 110 50A supply feeds one half of the breaker box, the other leg feeds the other side.

Thus, if the park lost one leg, his outlets may appear fine, but the converter has lost power, allowing the 12V battery to run down.

Does that make sense?

It sure does. However, the converter is always on the "heavy use" side of the two circuits so that most everything works when plugged into a 30 amp circuit with a pigtail. He would have a lot more out than just the converter, I think. The other side normally runs things like a 2nd AC and washer/dryer.

[SKnight]

Gotcha, thanks! Like I said, this AC stuff warps my poor brain. It's a fad though, it'll never last.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by SKnight

Gotcha, thanks! Like I said, this AC stuff warps my poor brain. It's a fad though, it'll never last.

So said Edison ... Darn Tesla anyway!

[LJ_Sha]

I have 2 limiters near my battery and none in or near the pin box. Neither were corroded. It has to be the converter with everything else looking good?.

[ChooChooMan74]

Did you try and plug in the truck and see if the 12v from the truck will power the 12v in your unit??

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by LJ_Sha

I have 2 limiters near my battery and none in or near the pin box. Neither were corroded. It has to be the converter with everything else looking good?.

There has to be a limiter very close to the pancake box where the tow truck cord enters the camper. It is the only protection you have from a short in the tow cable from frying your camper's wiring.

If you can not locate it or (?) you don't have one there, it may be behind your converter.

Do you have a meter to check your converter's output?

Here is how to troubleshoot your converter provided you have a way to measure voltage.

I had another thought. Have you checked your ground!

Find the location where the battery is grounded to the frame. There is a bolt there. RUST can isolate the negative of both the battery AND the converter from all appliances/lights causing them not to work even though both are working properly.

Follow the ground wire (may be white) from the neg terminal of the battery to the frame and unscrew it; clean it and screw it back in.

[LJ_Sha]

Ok. Just used my truck with jumper cables and connected it to the camper battery. It gave me full power. I do not have a meter and checked where the ground is located an d no rust. I think by using my truck it's probably still the converter?.

[SKnight]

I'd say either your converter isn't getting power or isn't giving power, it seems your 12v side is fine, just either leave the engine running or disconnect it as you don't want to kill your truck battery.

I'd start by confirming power to the converter.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by SKnight

I'd say either your converter isn't getting power or isn't giving power, it seems your 12v side is fine, just either leave the engine running or disconnect it as you don't want to kill your truck battery.

I'd start by confirming power to the converter.

Without a 12 volt meter or a 12 volt test light, you are in a tough place.
Hard to continue troubleshooting without one; but it does sound like a malfunctioning Converter.

If you feel comfortable opening the power center cover you might be able to check to see if the black wire from the circuit breaker to the converter has not come loose, burned off, or broken.

[LJ_Sha]

I did take off the cover and all looks fine. I spoke with a campground tech and he suggested I go purchase a small jump box and connect it to the battery with an extension cord to the power pedestal. The service tech here wanted $135 for the service call and to test my converter. He said if the converter was bad they would charge anywhere from $350 to $550 with $109 / hr extra. I thought these prices were a bit high.

[SKnight]

I'd go ahead and get a decent battery charger, for example one of the 12A Schumacher Smart Chargers, then just leave it in the camper.

I don't know what converters cost, but the service call sounds a little high, the labor rate is about right.