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Old 04-20-2014, 10:07 PM   #21
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AC seems to be fine and reset the converter breaker still same issues.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:09 PM   #22
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Back your truck up to your unit and unplug from the 110v pedistal and plug your truck into the 7-point plug and while your truck is running, see if you have 12v to your systems.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by LJ_Sha View Post
AC seems to be fine and reset the converter breaker still same issues.
Now you are looking for your current limiters - 1 by the battery and one up under your pin box.

If you can wait till daylight, it will go a lot easier.
The reset button is popped in this photo.

If you find one popped just push it in.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:16 PM   #24
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Due to what Lou said, one of the first mods I did was to get another breaker and move the converter to it, separating the plugs from the converter. Also, it really not a good idea to wire two wires to one connection on a breaker (I believe it's against code in residential usage)

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Old 04-20-2014, 10:18 PM   #25
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Now you are looking for your current limiters - 1 by the battery and one up under your pin box.

If you can wait till daylight, it will go a lot easier.
The reset button is popped in this photo.

If you find one popped just push it in.
Even with this fuse popped, should not the converter be able to run some lights and maybe the fridge with out the units battery? Yes, lower voltage without the charged battery and very dim, but I would think that some systems would work if the converter is working.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:24 PM   #26
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Correct. You could completely disconnect the battery and run the interior 12V with the converter. Slides, etc. may be a different story. I check both sides a week or so before I head out. I'll plug in with all breakers off and turn on all the lights and check all the 12V operation. Then I'll switch all the breakers on and throw the disconnect. All the lights will stay on if it's working properly.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:34 PM   #27
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Even with this fuse popped, should not the converter be able to run some lights and maybe the fridge with out the units battery? Yes, lower voltage without the charged battery and very dim, but I would think that some systems would work if the converter is working.
Let me think about that one. I want to agree with you, but I seem to recall when the limiter under the pin box went out due to corrosion, I had no DC at all until I cleaned the terminals.

The best way to see if the converter is working is to use a meter on the battery lugs (13+ volts). Measure the top and bottom lugs (that say POS and NEG) of the panel that has the blue fuses).

If the battery is dead or shorted, the converter will shut down to prevent damage to the converter and will not power up until the short is removed and the unit resets itself.

Corroded current limiters could short the converter to ground.

It is also possible the converter itself is bad, but until the circuits are eliminated I would not go right to replacement without trouble shooting some more.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:46 PM   #28
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I agree about the DC circuit breaker, sounds like that's the problem, mine did the same when it was tripped, front landing gear wouldn't work or fridge and my lights would flicker. I reset it everything was fine, the photo that Herk7769 posted is what I'm calling the DC circuit breaker, I ordered 2 spares off ebay after the problem.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:48 PM   #29
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This being a 5er, presumably with 50A, could one leg of the plug be dead? The way it was explained to me (I'm an expert on DC, but that back and forth AC nonsense warps my mind, so bear with me.).. is that one leg of the 110 50A supply feeds one half of the breaker box, the other leg feeds the other side.

Thus, if the park lost one leg, his outlets may appear fine, but the converter has lost power, allowing the 12V battery to run down.

Does that make sense?
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:54 PM   #30
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This being a 5er, presumably with 50A, could one leg of the plug be dead? The way it was explained to me (I'm an expert on DC, but that back and forth AC nonsense warps my mind, so bear with me.).. is that one leg of the 110 50A supply feeds one half of the breaker box, the other leg feeds the other side.

Thus, if the park lost one leg, his outlets may appear fine, but the converter has lost power, allowing the 12V battery to run down.

Does that make sense?
It sure does. However, the converter is always on the "heavy use" side of the two circuits so that most everything works when plugged into a 30 amp circuit with a pigtail. He would have a lot more out than just the converter, I think. The other side normally runs things like a 2nd AC and washer/dryer.
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