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Old 04-20-2014, 11:19 PM   #31
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Gotcha, thanks! Like I said, this AC stuff warps my poor brain. It's a fad though, it'll never last.
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:20 PM   #32
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Gotcha, thanks! Like I said, this AC stuff warps my poor brain. It's a fad though, it'll never last.
So said Edison ... Darn Tesla anyway!
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:06 AM   #33
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I have 2 limiters near my battery and none in or near the pin box. Neither were corroded. It has to be the converter with everything else looking good?.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:22 AM   #34
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Did you try and plug in the truck and see if the 12v from the truck will power the 12v in your unit??
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:27 AM   #35
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I have 2 limiters near my battery and none in or near the pin box. Neither were corroded. It has to be the converter with everything else looking good?.
There has to be a limiter very close to the pancake box where the tow truck cord enters the camper. It is the only protection you have from a short in the tow cable from frying your camper's wiring.

If you can not locate it or (?) you don't have one there, it may be behind your converter.

Do you have a meter to check your converter's output?

Here is how to troubleshoot your converter provided you have a way to measure voltage.

I had another thought. Have you checked your ground!

Find the location where the battery is grounded to the frame. There is a bolt there. RUST can isolate the negative of both the battery AND the converter from all appliances/lights causing them not to work even though both are working properly.

Follow the ground wire (may be white) from the neg terminal of the battery to the frame and unscrew it; clean it and screw it back in.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf WFCO 8900 Troubleshooting guide.pdf (4.69 MB, 14 views)
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:26 AM   #36
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Ok. Just used my truck with jumper cables and connected it to the camper battery. It gave me full power. I do not have a meter and checked where the ground is located an d no rust. I think by using my truck it's probably still the converter?.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:49 AM   #37
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I'd say either your converter isn't getting power or isn't giving power, it seems your 12v side is fine, just either leave the engine running or disconnect it as you don't want to kill your truck battery.

I'd start by confirming power to the converter.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:06 AM   #38
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I'd say either your converter isn't getting power or isn't giving power, it seems your 12v side is fine, just either leave the engine running or disconnect it as you don't want to kill your truck battery.

I'd start by confirming power to the converter.
Without a 12 volt meter or a 12 volt test light, you are in a tough place.
Hard to continue troubleshooting without one; but it does sound like a malfunctioning Converter.

If you feel comfortable opening the power center cover you might be able to check to see if the black wire from the circuit breaker to the converter has not come loose, burned off, or broken.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:15 AM   #39
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I did take off the cover and all looks fine. I spoke with a campground tech and he suggested I go purchase a small jump box and connect it to the battery with an extension cord to the power pedestal. The service tech here wanted $135 for the service call and to test my converter. He said if the converter was bad they would charge anywhere from $350 to $550 with $109 / hr extra. I thought these prices were a bit high.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:20 AM   #40
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I'd go ahead and get a decent battery charger, for example one of the 12A Schumacher Smart Chargers, then just leave it in the camper.

I don't know what converters cost, but the service call sounds a little high, the labor rate is about right.
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