Originally Posted by Dr. Doofenshmirtz
Oh - I was under the impression that if I had the tow vehicle connected and running it would bypass the battery (or "flow through" the battery) and use the vehicle power to light the lights, etc. I was using that to more or less figure out whether my issue was with the battery or something more significant. If that's not how it works then I'm fairly certain it's my battery. At least I'm hoping.
I checked the plunger switch several times... it was the one thing I knew to check.
You are correct. Even with a dead battery, you should have gooten voltage to the camper via the TV. Test by reading voltage across PUP battery with the TV connected. Should be 13+ V.
If battery reads 13+ V, but no voltage to lights or anything else DC says you possibly have the frame circuit breaker popped, or the reverse polarity fuses in the converter blown.
If you left your battery connected all winter, the CO/propane alarm will have run your PUP battery down to nothing - and it is now useless. It may be effectively shorting out the TV alternator so that you will not get the 13+ V that a charging battery will show. Remove the PUP battery and have it tested (or just trade in for the core charge on a new battery).
FWIW, the CO/propane alarm will run your battery down to almost nothing in a couple of weeks. You should be disconnecting the battery whenever storing the PUP - or install a battery disconnect switch.
PUP converters can do weird things if a partially charged, good battery is not in the circuit. You don't want to run your converter without a good, partially charged battery - at least not often or for long. That said, plug in the PUP to an AC plug and see if you get 12 volt power that way. If you do, the battery and/or frame circuit breaker and/or reverse polarity fuses are the culprit.
now: 2014 Rockwood A122
prior: 2000 Coleman Westlake