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Old 08-03-2012, 09:57 PM   #11
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I'll tell you guys, I am still having issues with the "Works on shore power; won't work on battery" with battery voltage at the 12volt fuse panel (shore power disconnected).

It has to be a pop-up specific issue.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:03 PM   #12
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I'll tell you guys, I am still having issues with the "Works on shore power; won't work on battery" with battery voltage at the 12volt fuse panel (shore power disconnected).

It has to be a pop-up issue.
I've fixed alot of things but this has me stumped. I will rework the ground site tomorrow.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:08 AM   #13
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I've fixed alot of things but this has me stumped. I will rework the ground site tomorrow.
I find it hard to believe it will be a ground issue if there is 12 volts at the converter with shore power off.

I have thought about this a lot and believe your battery has a "supply" problem.
It is either broken (bad plate(s)) or not fully charged and the voltage drops rapidly under load.

Fully charging a deep discharge battery is NOT like charging a car battery. Car batteries have thin plates and charge quickly. Deep Cycle batteries have THICK plates and take forever (DAYS) to replace their charge.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:37 AM   #14
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if that was happening to me, i would suspect the disconnect was in the wrong position. my disconnect separates the bat from the trailer. 12 volt will work when plugged into SP but not from bat in one position. in the other position, the bat is connected along with the converter.
this sounds like ur problem but not how u got there.
u have 12 v up to the converter from the bat with SP off...turn a couple lights on and see if the 12 volts is still there. out of curiosity, do u have 12 v at the DC fuse panel w/o SP? what i am trying for is bad contacts within a breaker or some other poor contact. under no load, they look normal; add load and they don't work.
the trouble shooting for narrowing down this problem has already been stated.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:47 AM   #15
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My bet is a bad ground since the coverter works and not the battery they both have different grounding points.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #16
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My bet is a bad ground since the coverter works and not the battery they both have different grounding points.
yep. and a bad ground could also appear normal w no load.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:47 PM   #17
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Most converters have a relay inside them that switches the battery from the RV's DC buss to the charger when the converter is making the current for the buss.

If that relay is kaput, the battery may never come onto the buss when the converter isn't operating.

I believe the default (relaxed) position is "to buss", so it might be a stuck set of contacts keeping the battery off-buss.

Just a theory, take it for what it's worth....

Pop
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #18
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My bet is a bad ground since the coverter works and not the battery they both have different grounding points.
I reworked both ground points. The battery ground and the chassis ground from the converter. Still nothing. I'm done with it. Time to go to the repair shop.

Thanks for all your help.
Bob
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob G

I reworked both ground points. The battery ground and the chassis ground from the converter. Still nothing. I'm done with it. Time to go to the repair shop.

Thanks for all your help.
Bob
Good college try, plenty of us woulk like to know the outcome for future reference, tks
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:58 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post
Most converters have a relay inside them that switches the battery from the RV's DC buss to the charger when the converter is making the current for the buss.

If that relay is kaput, the battery may never come onto the buss when the converter isn't operating.

I believe the default (relaxed) position is "to buss", so it might be a stuck set of contacts keeping the battery off-buss.

Just a theory, take it for what it's worth....

Pop
the 84 that i had worked like that. i had the relay stop working (don't remember the details now sense that was awhile back). i purchased the relay (contactor sense it was bought from a frig supply) and replaced.
that trailer would run from the bat until u plugged it n then it would throw the relay and the trailer was on converter only.

without going back and rereading, if there is 12v at the fuse panel it should work. the 12v, is it actually on the fuses (when not hooked to SP)?
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