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Old 08-03-2012, 07:46 PM   #1
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Exclamation Nothing 12V works off the battery

I have an issue witht the lights on my 2002 Flafstaff PU. The lights do not work on the battery but do work when pluged into SP. New battery, new converter and still no lights. I have 12V coming from the battery to the converter. I've checked the grounds and all look good. No blown fuses. I checked the continuity of all the fuses, replaced all fuses, and nothing 12V works off the battery. Measured the voltage from the 12V lead from the battery at the converter. (13.6V)What next?
Bob
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:52 PM   #2
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There is a fuse right before you get to the battery. On travel trailers it is exposed under the frame (could also be covered with a red rubber cover) and gets corroded and could blow.

No worries as they are reset-able with a little button on the side.

It is located under the pin box in my 5th wheel.

If it won't reset or is not blown; remove the terminals and shine them with some sand paper and the threads with a wire brush.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:57 PM   #3
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My Pop Up does not have that. I have 12V at the converter coming from the battery.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:59 PM   #4
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My Pop Up does not have that. I have 12V at the converter coming from the battery.
OK, when not on shore power you have 12 volts at the converter?
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:05 PM   #5
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Yes, 12V at the converter.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:12 PM   #6
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Yes, 12V at the converter.
flip up sink/galley has switch to cut power to all 12v services?
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:14 PM   #7
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Man, that is a "head scratcher" all right.

The fact they work on SP but not battery; yet you have battery power AT the converter is a real mystery.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:22 PM   #8
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flip up sink/galley has switch to cut power to all 12v services?
Switch is OK, I jumped across the terminals and still nothing
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:31 PM   #9
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Switch is OK, I jumped across the terminals and still nothing
Time permitting could you apply a 12V glow tester or meter from ground clip on to both sides of switch one at a time? This will tell you to proceed next connection above or below that point. You're looking for that same 13.6 volts beyond the junction of the battery converter connection. Is there a fuse panel installed inside somewhere? Thats you next point after the switch inside. If power didn't reach the switch you need to check cable junctions toward the battery.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:57 PM   #10
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Problem With 12 Volt Power

I had the same problem last week. Shore power would work and 12 Volt would not. I originally found corrosion on the circuit breaker that Herk describes above. I cleaned that up and the 12 volt started working but stopped working again the next day. I then installed a new battery (even though battery was showing 12.7 volts) and worked on my ground wire to the trailer. The 12 volt has worked fine since. I really can't say what the exact problem was since I changed the battery and reworked the ground at the same time, but I really believe it was just a bad ground. I removed the ground screw from the frame rail and used a round wire brush on a cordless drill to remove a small area of paint on the frame under the ground screw. I noticed that this area was completely covered with black paint meaning the only contact with bare metal for the ground was the small area inside the threads in the screw hole. Try reworking your ground and see if that helps.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:57 PM   #11
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I'll tell you guys, I am still having issues with the "Works on shore power; won't work on battery" with battery voltage at the 12volt fuse panel (shore power disconnected).

It has to be a pop-up specific issue.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:03 PM   #12
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I'll tell you guys, I am still having issues with the "Works on shore power; won't work on battery" with battery voltage at the 12volt fuse panel (shore power disconnected).

It has to be a pop-up issue.
I've fixed alot of things but this has me stumped. I will rework the ground site tomorrow.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:08 AM   #13
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I've fixed alot of things but this has me stumped. I will rework the ground site tomorrow.
I find it hard to believe it will be a ground issue if there is 12 volts at the converter with shore power off.

I have thought about this a lot and believe your battery has a "supply" problem.
It is either broken (bad plate(s)) or not fully charged and the voltage drops rapidly under load.

Fully charging a deep discharge battery is NOT like charging a car battery. Car batteries have thin plates and charge quickly. Deep Cycle batteries have THICK plates and take forever (DAYS) to replace their charge.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:37 AM   #14
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if that was happening to me, i would suspect the disconnect was in the wrong position. my disconnect separates the bat from the trailer. 12 volt will work when plugged into SP but not from bat in one position. in the other position, the bat is connected along with the converter.
this sounds like ur problem but not how u got there.
u have 12 v up to the converter from the bat with SP off...turn a couple lights on and see if the 12 volts is still there. out of curiosity, do u have 12 v at the DC fuse panel w/o SP? what i am trying for is bad contacts within a breaker or some other poor contact. under no load, they look normal; add load and they don't work.
the trouble shooting for narrowing down this problem has already been stated.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:47 AM   #15
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My bet is a bad ground since the coverter works and not the battery they both have different grounding points.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:15 AM   #16
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My bet is a bad ground since the coverter works and not the battery they both have different grounding points.
yep. and a bad ground could also appear normal w no load.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:47 AM   #17
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Most converters have a relay inside them that switches the battery from the RV's DC buss to the charger when the converter is making the current for the buss.

If that relay is kaput, the battery may never come onto the buss when the converter isn't operating.

I believe the default (relaxed) position is "to buss", so it might be a stuck set of contacts keeping the battery off-buss.

Just a theory, take it for what it's worth....

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Old 08-04-2012, 01:27 PM   #18
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My bet is a bad ground since the coverter works and not the battery they both have different grounding points.
I reworked both ground points. The battery ground and the chassis ground from the converter. Still nothing. I'm done with it. Time to go to the repair shop.

Thanks for all your help.
Bob
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob G

I reworked both ground points. The battery ground and the chassis ground from the converter. Still nothing. I'm done with it. Time to go to the repair shop.

Thanks for all your help.
Bob
Good college try, plenty of us woulk like to know the outcome for future reference, tks
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:58 PM   #20
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Most converters have a relay inside them that switches the battery from the RV's DC buss to the charger when the converter is making the current for the buss.

If that relay is kaput, the battery may never come onto the buss when the converter isn't operating.

I believe the default (relaxed) position is "to buss", so it might be a stuck set of contacts keeping the battery off-buss.

Just a theory, take it for what it's worth....

Pop
the 84 that i had worked like that. i had the relay stop working (don't remember the details now sense that was awhile back). i purchased the relay (contactor sense it was bought from a frig supply) and replaced.
that trailer would run from the bat until u plugged it n then it would throw the relay and the trailer was on converter only.

without going back and rereading, if there is 12v at the fuse panel it should work. the 12v, is it actually on the fuses (when not hooked to SP)?
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