Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-27-2016, 09:53 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
grumpy0374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 940
Quote:
Originally Posted by trdutch View Post
I have read that synthetic in an air cooled engine is not preferred but I run Harley Syn 3 in the air cooled Harley
Would this be a safe option?
There is no way on earth that Genset is working harder than the Bike especially in Southern heat.
But there is obviously a big difference in these two engines
I just don't want to screw something up and then hear,"You should have used Onan OmniMax oil like the manufacturer suggests and now you voided your warranty


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
Don't know where you read that info.
Been using synthetic oil in my home generator, lawn tractor, mower, weed eater, snow thrower, pressure washer, for going on 20 years. Never had any engine go south because of "using synthetic oil"
Used it in my previously owned Harley, Honda, Kawi, with never a problem.
And, if you think about it, your genny is working harder than your Harley. Your Harley is getting air flow across it when you ride, even in hot temps, while your genny is just sitting there, chugging away, no airflow other than the internal fan.
Grumpy
__________________

__________________
Steve & Cheryl + Charlie & Casey, our furry kids.

2012 Forrest River Lexington 283ts
Toad, 2013 Subaru XV Crosstrek
grumpy0374 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2016, 12:57 PM   #12
New:
 
compman69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Kissimmee Florida USA
Posts: 122
You can always order the Onan Oil from AMAZON. I get most of my Onan parts on there.
They are pretty good price and the fact that I have prime and most things are free shipping is sauce for the goose.
__________________

__________________
2017 Days Camping = 0 ;-(
2016 Days Camping = 38
2015 Days Camping = 48
New: 2015 Forest River Georgetown 328TS
2016 Equinox Tow Vehicle
old: 2013 FR Rockwood 2318G w/ 2001 Ford F250 4X4 Diesel
compman69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2016, 01:07 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
NMWildcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 1,250
I have used full synthetic in my honda gennies for 10 years. Also my lawn mower, also my trucks, also........
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD 4dr short bed Duramax w/allison
Reese Fifth Airborne air ride king pin coupler with Sidewinder
NMWildcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2016, 02:32 PM   #14
Boondocking Only
 
ddbck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 210
Any oil will do just fine. I usually just use what I have laying around to top off my genny, Castrol,Penzoil, it really doest matter. Far worse to let it get low or run out.
__________________
ddbck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2016, 03:57 PM   #15
Member
 
RudysWorld's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Collierville, TN
Posts: 383
At the Cummins seminar at the Goshen Rally the Rep. said use what you use for everything else. Should operate well on whatever. I think think my manual says 10w-30 conventional oil.
__________________

Rudy - 10 year old long haired dachshund
2011 Georgetown 350TS
2013 Chevrolet Equinox toad
RudysWorld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2016, 07:44 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
trdutch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Lake Wylie
Posts: 433
Oil for the Onan

What I read was from a guy that repairs gensets and small engines for a living and he basically is making a living from people using the wrong oil
There are additives and detergents in basic Dino oil that the unit needs to pull out dirt and impurities because units like mine don't have a filter.
In his words the oil & changing that oil often IS the filter.Modern Synthetics either don't have the additives or they are phasing them out
So to answer my own question I used Penzoil 30 weight
Oh and I double posted to get two different perspectives
The all units crowd and the Sunseeker group
I will refrain from doing that in the future and thank you all for your replies


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
I never saw a Hearse towing a Trailer
'71 Dads VW camper pop up Van
'78.....tents
'93 Coleman pop ups (I'm Dad)
'04 Fleetwood Jamboree 26q
'14 Sunseeker 2860DS
trdutch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2016, 07:53 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 393
There are several brands of synthetic oils specifically made for small air-cooled engines. Although I don't want to get into the synthetic vs. dino oil discussion (there are plenty of those on this forum), synthetics almost universally provide better protection for longer times/mileage and under more severe conditions allowable than their dino oil counterparts. Only time I'm aware of that full synthetics are inferior is in air-cooled airplane engines that use leaded fuels. The synthetics cannot scavenge the lead properly.

Like many posters here, I use synthetic oils and lubricants on all of my internal combustion engines and motorized vehicles.
__________________
KatanaPilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 08:22 AM   #18
Newly Retired
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North GA
Posts: 93
Mobile one makes a air cooled motorcycle oil, or use the regular Mobile One, multi viscosity.
__________________
Steveboe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2016, 08:35 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
trdutch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Lake Wylie
Posts: 433
Oil for the Onan

I guess What I was trying to find out but was looking in the wrong place was what oil and why:
What I found out by research
I run the genset year round (excersise in winter) so I need a multi viscosity.
When it is used for long periods (Summer season in the south,while driving for Air) the straight 30 weight is "OK" but I really need the multi before it gets cold outside and I want to run it while stored.
Why I didn't think to call Cummings Onan is beyond me but the tech told me it's OK to run the 30 (that I already put in) this summer,and change to
15-40 and then stay with that.
Change it often cause the oil change is my filter so Syn is expensive to change often and you will never harm this generator by using Regular 15-40 and changing it often (once a year or 100 hours) or more often in dusty dirty conditions
So the new or still learning understand oil,the 15-40 acts like thin 15 for cold starting and the acts like thick 40weight when up to temp and running
30 weight is 30 so it's kinda thick for that critical cold start period
I only write this cause I know there are those that aren't sure what multi viscosity is all about
For you oil experts out there that are going "Duh everyone knows that"
next time,please say
Run regular 15-40 or Synthetic and have a nice day
Oh,I posted this on the Sunseeker forum because our Gens are similar and I know the A's have completely different setups



Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
I never saw a Hearse towing a Trailer
'71 Dads VW camper pop up Van
'78.....tents
'93 Coleman pop ups (I'm Dad)
'04 Fleetwood Jamboree 26q
'14 Sunseeker 2860DS
trdutch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2016, 06:34 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
VinceU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,298
Quote:
Originally Posted by trdutch View Post
I guess What I was trying to find out but was looking in the wrong place was what oil and why:
What I found out by research
I run the genset year round (excersise in winter) so I need a multi viscosity.
When it is used for long periods (Summer season in the south,while driving for Air) the straight 30 weight is "OK" but I really need the multi before it gets cold outside and I want to run it while stored.
Why I didn't think to call Cummings Onan is beyond me but the tech told me it's OK to run the 30 (that I already put in) this summer,and change to
15-40 and then stay with that.
Change it often cause the oil change is my filter so Syn is expensive to change often and you will never harm this generator by using Regular 15-40 and changing it often (once a year or 100 hours) or more often in dusty dirty conditions
So the new or still learning understand oil,the 15-40 acts like thin 15 for cold starting and the acts like thick 40weight when up to temp and running
30 weight is 30 so it's kinda thick for that critical cold start period
I only write this cause I know there are those that aren't sure what multi viscosity is all about
For you oil experts out there that are going "Duh everyone knows that"
next time,please say
Run regular 15-40 or Synthetic and have a nice day
Oh,I posted this on the Sunseeker forum because our Gens are similar and I know the A's have completely different setups



Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
Use API (American Petroleum Institute) performance Class SJ, SH or SG engine oil, which may be in combination with performance Class CH-4, CG-4 or CF-4 (for example: SJ/CH-4). Also look for the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) viscosity grade. Referring to Table 1, choose the viscosity grade appropriate for the ambient temperatures expected until the next scheduled oil change.
😉Single-grade SAE 30 oil is preferable when temper- atures are consistently above freezing. Multigrade oils are better when wide temperature variations are expected.

Here's what I was talkin about. Quote from 5.5 KW
Onan genset IB. Didn't note your low temp spec.
I think 30 wt is not thick, but it is very stable thus Onan's preferred.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
__________________

__________________
VinceU is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:33 PM.