Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-25-2015, 09:51 PM   #101
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta
Posts: 797
I stand corrected on the SOC, thanks.
__________________

__________________

2007 Surveyor SV230
- 200 Watts Solar/MPPT Controller - 230 AH Battery Bank - 600 watt PSW Inverter - (2) 2000 watt Inverter Generators - LED Lighting - Boon Docking 99% of the time.
2009 F150 - 5.4 Litre - Tow Package
boondocking is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2015, 10:56 PM   #102
Senior Member
 
camaraderie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,720
Quote:
Originally Posted by boondocking View Post
It does tells me the voltage and amperage that the solar panels are producing.
Yes it does.

Quote:
No it doesn't tell me present amps being used or the SOC or % of capacity while the batterys are being charged.
We agree.

Quote:
It does tell me that stuff when the batterys are not being charged, when I de-activate the cutoff switch for the solar panels.
It does nothing of the sort

Quote:
It gives me all the info I need while boondocking.
That's nice. Brooklyngirl might want reliable and comprehensive information that you think you're getting but aren't and can't possibly get from that meter. Once again...iff there are black wires attached to your batteries other than ONE from your meter with the "built in shunt"... you cannot possibly be monitoring your batteries for the things I listed.
*********

a real shunt connects to all house negatives on one side (two in this case...generally more) and ONE large negative from the other side of the shunt to the battery negative. The shunt is then connected to the monitor from a small wire to provide readings to be decoded by the monitors algorithms which include compensation for battery capacity battery specific peukerts constant and other factors which bear on capacity & time remaining such as current draw v. 20amp current draw rate. It also allows for adjusting battery capacity for monitoring as it ages. (i.e. if your 3 year old 100amp hour battery has lost 25% of capacity...you don't want to hasten its' demise by drawing it down to 50% of a 100 a/h battery...you now want to draw it down 50% of a 75 amp hour battery.
Without such adjustment you'd be taking that 3 year old battery down to 33% of capacity and killing is softly while thinking all was well.
Brooklyngirl...consider the Victron monitor as well as the Trimetric. Used all over the world and simple installation and cheaper. Both do the same things.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	shunt.JPG
Views:	49
Size:	31.8 KB
ID:	92856  
__________________

__________________
________
Cam
2015 Georgetown 280DS
2014 Vespa LX150 2014 StellaAuto 125
camaraderie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 12:57 AM   #103
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta
Posts: 797
I have been mis-informed. Thank you for setting things straight.
__________________

2007 Surveyor SV230
- 200 Watts Solar/MPPT Controller - 230 AH Battery Bank - 600 watt PSW Inverter - (2) 2000 watt Inverter Generators - LED Lighting - Boon Docking 99% of the time.
2009 F150 - 5.4 Litre - Tow Package
boondocking is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 06:39 AM   #104
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 36
Thanks guys. What I'm looking for in a monitor is something that will let me know the state of charge of my batteries without having to access the batteries themselves. I would also like to be able to know how much power the appliances in the trailer are drawing so we can make good decisions about use (e.g. does it make sense to turn off the water pump at night) and when I finally get my solar panels what amount of energy the panels are putting into the battery.


It should also be idiot proof (there is such a thing as too much information), DIY installable by someone with basic wiring skills and not some huge thing that will take up the entire trailer.


My guess is that load testing is something we'd do once to see how much an appliance draws and then occasionally later on when we add a new toy to the system. I could see sense in buying a low end load tester and a battery monitor that does not test the current draw on the system if the two were considerably less expensive than the Trimetic or the Victron (which doesn't seem to be any less expensive than the Trimetic)


On the other hand you do get what you pay for. I just don't want to pay for something with a bunch of features I'll rarely or never use or even understand.
__________________
brooklyncowgirl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 10:34 AM   #105
Senior Member
 
camaraderie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,720
Quote:
Originally Posted by brooklyncowgirl View Post
Thanks guys. What I'm looking for in a monitor is something that will let me know the state of charge of my batteries without having to access the batteries themselves. I would also like to be able to know how much power the appliances in the trailer are drawing so we can make good decisions about use (e.g. does it make sense to turn off the water pump at night) and when I finally get my solar panels what amount of energy the panels are putting into the battery.


It should also be idiot proof (there is such a thing as too much information), DIY installable by someone with basic wiring skills and not some huge thing that will take up the entire trailer.
BCG...The Victron will do exactly what you want. Installation is easy and the simple directions require NO electrical knowledge or measurement. There is a short initial set up process with the meter where you enter your battery type & capacity etc.... after that you simply press one of two buttons on the monitor to cycle through the info you need.
It WILL show you:
Present state of charge i.e. 72%
Present amps being used or Present amps coming in to the battery...net.
Time remaining at present usage of batteries.
When you are 100% charged without waiting for surface charges or using load testers.
Since you can switch items on and off...you can see exactly what your TV or your fridge or computer uses.
Installation IS simple.
1.Take all black wires off your battery and instead put them on the "load end of the included Shunt.
2. Figure our someplace close to the batts to mount the shunt to. Now buy a standard black battery cable from the local auto zone that will reach from the battery to the shunt and connect it.
3. Take the included thin red wire and run it to the positive battery post from the shunt.
4. Take the included "telephone wire" cable and plug it into the shunt. Plug the othe end into the back of the monitor.
5. Complete wall mounting of the monitor and your done.

Victron Battery Monitors

The model 700 is good for multiple batteries configured as ONE bank as yours would be. The model 702 also lets you run wire and monitor voltage on the engine battery which is a bit of unnecessary expense in an RV I think.
Good luck with the decision making.
__________________
________
Cam
2015 Georgetown 280DS
2014 Vespa LX150 2014 StellaAuto 125
camaraderie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 08:37 PM   #106
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 38
Excellent write up Cam. I was not aware of the Victron. Easier to wire than the Trimetric as they have the telephone port on the shunt! Nice touch.

Made in the Netherlands not the US but a minor point I think based on the apparent quality of the product. Has anyone used their other products? Might make sense for the cowgirl to go with these guys for her entire build maybe minus the panels...
__________________
Kelly
Show Low and Rio Verde, AZ
cuernoverdesolar.wordpress.com
Klipstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 09:49 PM   #107
Senior Member
 
camaraderie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,720
Thanks Kelly... yes...they are a reliable engineering/design company and if you look closely you'll see they've made products for Xantrex label as well.
The other significant thing is price...the Trimetric does not include the shunt or the cable so you are over $200 going that route. Nothing wrong with the product at all...excellent...but a little more $$ and a bit more complicated to install.
"Additional parts you will need: Shunt, 4 wire cable from battery to meter, Short, large cable to go from shunt to battery"

Can't comment on the rest of their stuff from personal use...but the MPPT solar controllers let you hook in with your pc to adjust charging parameters for your specific brand/models factory recommendations... pretty cool.
__________________
________
Cam
2015 Georgetown 280DS
2014 Vespa LX150 2014 StellaAuto 125
camaraderie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 11:49 PM   #108
Senior Member
 
Tom48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 1,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by brooklyncowgirl View Post
We own a Tracer Air 252 trailer. The trailer came equipped with an Exide group 24 dual purpose marine battery. We've found that even without using lights (we're planning to upgrade to LED) that we had to run the generator every day when camping without shore power.

Since our plans are to do a lot of boondocking and camping in national parks and forests, etc. we want to upgrade our battery capacity and add a portable solar panel and use the generator for backup when solar fails.

The battery bracket is on the tongue behind the gas canisters. It consists of two pieces of L iron, the shorter of which is 26" set 9" apart welded onto the tongue from underneath (I'm a bit concerned about the strength)

The cheapest option would be to add another group 24 battery. I'd like to go with a true deep cycle battery instead of a dual purpose. Can I mix the two or would I have to buy two deep cycle batteries?

I'm also looking at the possibility of going with two 6 volt golf cart batteries. These should fit in the space we have and give us more power. Batteries Plus near me sells Duracell 6 volt batteries at a pretty good price. This would be more expensive but give us more battery for the buck.

At any rate, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Before I even read the others let me start. Absolutely. Two batteries is a minimum. Two top line golf card batteries will fit in the same space as two grp 24s as long as you can fit boxes that are about three inches taller. That will give you the amperage of three 24s or more and much better batteries. Then get the solar. Renogy.com, Chino, CA or windynation.com Ventura, CA. Price is about the same. Wire it up laying on the ground if you must but get it on the room as soon as you can. You will never regret having it.
__________________
Tom48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 11:57 PM   #109
Senior Member
 
Tom48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 1,005
Oh and while the panels are about the same inexpensive China stuff, the windy nation package that has their $50 30 amp pwm controller is a nice simple step. It has a display with battery state of charge displayed graphically. Not the same as the expensive monitor systems but more accurate than my factory display of state of charge. These days the only time our generator come on is when we want the a/C
__________________
Tom48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2015, 05:47 AM   #110
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
BCG...The Victron will do exactly what you want. Installation is easy and the simple directions require NO electrical knowledge or measurement. There is a short initial set up process with the meter where you enter your battery type & capacity etc.... after that you simply press one of two buttons on the monitor to cycle through the info you need.
It WILL show you:
Present state of charge i.e. 72%
Present amps being used or Present amps coming in to the battery...net.
Time remaining at present usage of batteries.
When you are 100% charged without waiting for surface charges or using load testers.
Since you can switch items on and off...you can see exactly what your TV or your fridge or computer uses.
Installation IS simple.
1.Take all black wires off your battery and instead put them on the "load end of the included Shunt.
2. Figure our someplace close to the batts to mount the shunt to. Now buy a standard black battery cable from the local auto zone that will reach from the battery to the shunt and connect it.
3. Take the included thin red wire and run it to the positive battery post from the shunt.
4. Take the included "telephone wire" cable and plug it into the shunt. Plug the othe end into the back of the monitor.
5. Complete wall mounting of the monitor and your done.

Victron Battery Monitors

The model 700 is good for multiple batteries configured as ONE bank as yours would be. The model 702 also lets you run wire and monitor voltage on the engine battery which is a bit of unnecessary expense in an RV I think.
Good luck with the decision making.
Thanks, I'll look into it. I did notice the thing about the shunt being included after I posted that the price was about the same. Sounds good.
__________________

__________________
brooklyncowgirl is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
battery, upgrade

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:55 PM.