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Old 07-01-2015, 04:58 PM   #21
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If you do it your way run the largest gauge wire you can. 60 Ft is a long way.
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:16 PM   #22
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For what it's worth, I ran mine with 4 gauge - had a couple of hundred feet hanging around. If I was just setting it up now however, I would wire it with an RV 50amp plug and use the adapter to the 30amp cord. We all seem to upgrade and most of the newer, bigger stuff is 50amp. The adapter will be a needed expense anyway and wiring it up once is always cheaper than doing it over. If I recall correctly my 30 amp receptacle was about $30 10 years ago when I set mine up.
I also set up an RV sewer drain into my residential septic system. That way my RV really does double as a guest house and if some RV type friends are in the area and want to stop by for a week they can camp in my yard for free with all the conveniences of a nice park, including a concrete pad to park on.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:04 PM   #23
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Purchase a 30 amp short cable and use a 30 to 15 amp adapter then a heavy duty extension cord.......I use the same set up only mine is a 50 amp connector on 5er
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:01 PM   #24
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Good idea to stay plugged in?

Our house came with a gravel RV pad and 30 amp hookup from previous owner. I leave TT plugged in all the time to keep the fridge going and run the lights periodically when we are out there in between trips. Is it bad for fridge from a longevity stand point to run all the time? Is it bad for my battery to stay perpertually charged and never really be used except for a few minutes here and there in between hookups etc?
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:23 PM   #25
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Yes on the fridge and yes on the constant charge
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:51 PM   #26
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How sweet of a deal is this cord? Is someone paying you to take it? I'm not going to dig through the 2014 NEC but I'm pretty sure that running cord in a building for a circuit such as this where flexibility of the conductors is not required is a violation. Also, cord generally does not carry the same ampacity as solid copper wiring which in your case would likely be 10-2wg NM-B depending on your local codes. Its always entertaining watching people with the money to sink into an nice RV completely cheap out on setting up the correct electrical circuit to plug the expensive thing into....
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:57 PM   #27
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B &. The longer you run that cable (100 ft) the more damage over the long run you will cause with small wire. One always has to watch "heavy duty use"
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBS View Post
32 Amp 230V | Marinco

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Old 07-02-2015, 07:38 AM   #29
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When I made my 50ft extension cord, I bought a 50ft 10/3 welder extension cord on e-bay, cut the ends off and installed RV 30 amp connectors. Cord and connectors, I think I have $75 in it. Now that I carry it in the MH, I'm betting I will never need it. :-)

NOTE - I prefer to carry multi purpose components - I'm thinking about making a couple short adapters that I can plug into this cord and they'll have alligator clips on the ends, This would give me a 50ft long jumper cable. I've needed that a couple times. :-)
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:00 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast murray View Post
Its always entertaining watching people with the money to sink into an nice RV completely cheap out on setting up the correct electrical circuit to plug the expensive thing into....

I don't think I'm "cheaping out". I'll be using the same cord you use at the campground, and roughly the same length you'd use if you have to use an extension on your regular cord (assuming 25' regular cord + 25' extension). It'll be running along the side and end walls of a 100% metal building. To avoid code issues, I may elect to install an RV outlet adjacent to the breaker panel instead of hard wiring the "cord" into the breaker box. Then it'll truly be an extension cord versus a hard-wired installation.

Thanks again for everyone's comments/insight.
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