Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-22-2015, 11:10 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Hoglou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 721
I got the 30 amp version of the above progressive surge protect. I cut the alum tag off mine easily with a tin snip and now secure it with a pad lock and a cable. Call me a nontrusting fellow but at 200 smacks I will keep up with it...

I got it while my coach was being built, so I have never put power to the coach without it..... Can not recommend this product enough!
__________________

__________________
Hoglou westGA
KM4HQQ 146.640mhz
L'IL Foot" 2014 Sunseeker 2300
"Harry" the JK toad in the mirror
Hoglou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2015, 11:48 AM   #12
Phat Phrog Stunt Team
 
TURBS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,337
If you get the hardwired progressive there's no worry ever of theft.
__________________

__________________
TURBS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2015, 01:30 PM   #13
The Busted Wrench
 
ChevyTech77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
I suggest you get the hard wire unit with the remote pendent.

I would be much more interested in an hardwired alternative for sure. Do you have a link?
__________________
ChevyTech77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2015, 01:36 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
dan-nickie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 1,506
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmywilson View Post
As for the 12 volt stuff, none of it works because my batteries are completely drained as we haven't had the trailer connected to an outside source for more than a year.
I think your first order of business is to get the batteries charged or replaced.
As I understand it, some converters will not power the lights etc. with dead batteries.
And it may not charge them up from the shore power.

Try a regular battery charger to see if they will come up. If not replace them before more trouble shooting.

At least get your slides and lights working. Some other items will require battery power also like air conditinoer, heater control board, reefer.
__________________
Dan
2014 Berkshire 390RB-60
dan-nickie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2015, 02:00 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
rattleNsmoke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Western Connecticut
Posts: 1,571
ChevyTech, here ya go.......

Progressive Electrical Management System, Hardwire 50A/240V EMS-HW50C
__________________
2010 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel 34SATS "The Beast"
2006 Ford F350 Lariat 6.0L Diesel
2003 Harley Heritage Softail "Hogzilla"
1986 Marriage to "Wifey" (patience of a saint)
rattleNsmoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2015, 02:54 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Timex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 1,658
Of course the OP's situation was different from mine, VISUALLY check the 40 amp fuses.

I hooked up a new battery IN REVERSE and blowed the fuses. I thought I had fried the converter. Changed the fuses and I was good to go!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0005.jpg
Views:	86
Size:	304.6 KB
ID:	70055  
__________________
2012 Flagstaff V Lite 30 WRLTS
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.7 Mag Hemi 3.72 Rearaxle
Nights camped 2015 = 23
Nights camped 2016 = 25
Nights camped 2017 = 13
Timex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 08:50 AM   #17
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 3
That's a great idea and inexpensive as opposed to fixing a fried converter. I pulled the power converter assembly and did not see any fuses on the mb. I did find two rectifiers side by side where the motherboard appeared to have burn marks right where the rectifiers are soldered into the mb. I decided to replace the entire mb assembly for $133. Not going to take any chances of future problems. I wanted to thank all of you for the suggestions and for sharing your own experiences. Very helpful group of folks here.
__________________
jimmywilson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 10:13 PM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmywilson View Post
My neighbor misunderstood and rigged the power box for 240 volts. I didn't realize what he had done so I plugged in the trailer and got no lights, no a/c, no radio and no microwave.
The physical shape and location of every prong on that plug defines how he should have wired it. Any plug designed for 120 volts must never be wired for 240 volts. Does not matter what he heard. He must know exactly what wire connects to what plug or receptacle prong so that an overvoltage could never happen.

Does not matter what anyone says. Which wire connects to what prong is the only way he can wire it. Otherwise that guy needs a serious education in fundamentals for human safety.
__________________

__________________
westom is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
converter, power

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:45 PM.