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Old 02-22-2015, 10:10 AM   #11
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I got the 30 amp version of the above progressive surge protect. I cut the alum tag off mine easily with a tin snip and now secure it with a pad lock and a cable. Call me a nontrusting fellow but at 200 smacks I will keep up with it...

I got it while my coach was being built, so I have never put power to the coach without it..... Can not recommend this product enough!

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Old 02-22-2015, 10:48 AM   #12
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If you get the hardwired progressive there's no worry ever of theft.

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Old 02-22-2015, 12:30 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
I suggest you get the hard wire unit with the remote pendent.

I would be much more interested in an hardwired alternative for sure. Do you have a link?
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:36 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by jimmywilson View Post
As for the 12 volt stuff, none of it works because my batteries are completely drained as we haven't had the trailer connected to an outside source for more than a year.
I think your first order of business is to get the batteries charged or replaced.
As I understand it, some converters will not power the lights etc. with dead batteries.
And it may not charge them up from the shore power.

Try a regular battery charger to see if they will come up. If not replace them before more trouble shooting.

At least get your slides and lights working. Some other items will require battery power also like air conditinoer, heater control board, reefer.
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:00 PM   #15
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ChevyTech, here ya go.......

Progressive Electrical Management System, Hardwire 50A/240V EMS-HW50C
2010 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel 34SATS "The Beast"
2006 Ford F350 Lariat 6.0L Diesel
2003 Harley Heritage Softail "Hogzilla"
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:54 PM   #16
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Of course the OP's situation was different from mine, VISUALLY check the 40 amp fuses.

I hooked up a new battery IN REVERSE and blowed the fuses. I thought I had fried the converter. Changed the fuses and I was good to go!
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2012 Flagstaff V Lite 30 WRLTS
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Old 02-23-2015, 07:50 AM   #17
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That's a great idea and inexpensive as opposed to fixing a fried converter. I pulled the power converter assembly and did not see any fuses on the mb. I did find two rectifiers side by side where the motherboard appeared to have burn marks right where the rectifiers are soldered into the mb. I decided to replace the entire mb assembly for $133. Not going to take any chances of future problems. I wanted to thank all of you for the suggestions and for sharing your own experiences. Very helpful group of folks here.
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Old 02-23-2015, 09:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jimmywilson View Post
My neighbor misunderstood and rigged the power box for 240 volts. I didn't realize what he had done so I plugged in the trailer and got no lights, no a/c, no radio and no microwave.
The physical shape and location of every prong on that plug defines how he should have wired it. Any plug designed for 120 volts must never be wired for 240 volts. Does not matter what he heard. He must know exactly what wire connects to what plug or receptacle prong so that an overvoltage could never happen.

Does not matter what anyone says. Which wire connects to what prong is the only way he can wire it. Otherwise that guy needs a serious education in fundamentals for human safety.

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converter, power

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