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Old 06-22-2014, 07:37 PM   #21
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Any other suggestions for the frig?

Do you smell propane or hear the flame light when you select GAS?
Have you reset the high temp circuit breaker in the stack?
Is there yellow corrosion in the lower right hand side of the coils?
Is the thermistor attached to the fins?
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:24 AM   #22
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I'll have to check these items when I go back to my property this next weekend.

The thermistor is attached to the fins. But I'll check again when I go back and make sure it has good contact.

I've only used my frig once since I purchased the TT new back in December so I'm hoping there is no corrosion.

In order to check the items in the pics you sent, do I need to pull the frig out of the wall or can those items be accessed from one of the panels on the exterior of the TT?
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:48 AM   #23
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Any other suggestions for the frig?
There are fuses in the outside fridge access panel.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:27 PM   #24
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Thanks! I'll explore that this weekend.


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Old 06-25-2014, 07:03 AM   #25
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Don't take this the wrong way but is your fridge plugged in in the back, a friends brand new unit was not from the day he bought it and took him a while to figure out why he was going thru so much propane. Good luck with your issue Herk seems to be giving GREAT advice.
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Old 06-25-2014, 09:59 AM   #26
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Don't take this the wrong way but is your fridge plugged in in the back, a friends brand new unit was not from the day he bought it and took him a while to figure out why he was going thru so much propane. Good luck with your issue Herk seems to be giving GREAT advice.
"Not plugged in" only affects the 120 volt heater.
It has no affect on the DC/Propane side at all as your friend found out.

As long as the unit is not cooling on DC/Propane either, the issue is on the control/cooling system.

The fin thermistor does not need to "touch" the fin to work. It works by the height above the floor of the fridge as it measures the air temperature and only uses the fin as a mounting place. Sliding it up and down changes the level in the fridge it measures the air temperature at.
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:31 PM   #27
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Yes it's plugged in because the interior light is coming on and the Auto light illuminates.


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Old 06-25-2014, 12:57 PM   #28
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A long shot here. Vapour lock. If there is gas, flame, 12 V etc.

Years ago with my 1983 Corsair my Dometic developed vapour lock. Remove the fridge, turned upside down, drove around the town in back of the GMC Safari for 15 minutes and reinstalled. Worked just fine. This same thing happened to my parents 1968 Citation Dometic as well. There is a fridge specialist south of St Thomas Ontario called Gamons RV, he fixes these sealed systems rather inexpensive as well.
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:48 PM   #29
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I thought vapor lock came about in high altitudes? I'm in Texas practically at sea level so I wouldn't think that would be the problem. But then again I've seen some strange stuff happen to equipment over the years.


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Old 06-25-2014, 03:10 PM   #30
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I thought vapor lock came about in high altitudes? I'm in Texas practically at sea level so I wouldn't think that would be the problem. But then again I've seen some strange stuff happen to equipment over the years.


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Vapor lock can come from anything even a trailer not being level. Get a hammer and start tapping all around the pipes you can see. Thats why you can drive with gas on. the movement it causes with the road bouncing. It sounds like you have lock someplace that can jar it loose. Vapor lock is not a high altitude problem. The orifice is that problem. Hope you can break it loose.....
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