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Old 08-02-2014, 07:36 AM   #51
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At least now you know what the problems were. Wonder if converter issue contributed to the microwave going out? Here's to wishing u good luck to a speedy repair and that you can be back on the road before summer ends!

Wayne
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:00 PM   #52
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If I were you I would ask my dealer to put in a progressive 4600 converter and you will pay the $35.00 difference in cost, well worth it......
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:00 PM   #53
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Yeah I'm wondering the same about the microwave too. Hopefully know even more next week.

Upgrading the converter is a great idea G. I'll ask about that when I call them next week. Thanks for that suggestion. With the trailer still being under warranty until the end of December, Forest River may not want to the dealer to put in a different brand converter. I'll see how it goes though.


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Old 08-05-2014, 04:10 PM   #54
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Heard back from the dealer. The converter was toast. They had to go ahead and put in a new one just to finish troubleshooting the other problems. Heating element in the frig has to be replaced. TV and microwave are both toast. Forest River is covering everything under warranty.

Just to be on the safe side, I want to have my electrician check my 30amp plug again. I hear there is a difference in an RV electrical outlet wiring compared to others. Can someone give me advise on what I need to know so I can explain it to my electrician in case he isn't familiar with wiring RV electrical outlets?

Thanks everybody!


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Old 08-05-2014, 10:04 PM   #55
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Heard back from the dealer. The converter was toast. They had to go ahead and put in a new one just to finish troubleshooting the other problems. Heating element in the frig has to be replaced. TV and microwave are both toast. Forest River is covering everything under warranty.

Just to be on the safe side, I want to have my electrician check my 30amp plug again. I hear there is a difference in an RV electrical outlet wiring compared to others. Can someone give me advise on what I need to know so I can explain it to my electrician in case he isn't familiar with wiring RV electrical outlets?

Thanks everybody!


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I do not know of any difference in 30 amp wiring. 30 amp 110v is the same as your house circuit. Just make sure the polarity is correct. Nothing special, you got some bad info from someone....... You just need a the same reciprocal as your plug end.
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:48 PM   #56
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It had something to do with making sure the common and neutral were a certain way. This is something my contact at the service department mentioned to me. He said he's seen a lot of converters blown because the common and neutral we're not wired properly.


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Old 08-06-2014, 05:27 AM   #57
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It had something to do with making sure the common and neutral were a certain way. This is something my contact at the service department mentioned to me. He said he's seen a lot of converters blown because the common and neutral we're not wired properly.


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All you need is 3 wires to your plug, hot, common and ground no such thing as a neutral in 110 volt wire system. Just make sure that your hot and common are the same as your plug end. Never heard that term before, Remember your unit is 110 volt not 220 volt.......
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:32 AM   #58
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The fortunate thing is that the stuff is still covered under warranty.

I can't offer much assistance with regards to your RV wiring question. If the dealer can't check that for you, maybe a trip to the factory for them to take a look might be a good idea, if you live close enough to make that kind of journey

I could make a suggestion on a related subject. Consider investing in a surge protector or similar type unit. The EMS units will assist with things like reverse polarity, drops in voltage, etc with regards to what is coming from the pole. Surge Guard and Progressive Industries are 2 popular makes; I went with the latter, which has lifetime warranty.
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:03 AM   #59
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Here are a couple of good links below. The biggest mistake people make is assuming that a 30 amp RV connection is the same as a dryer outlet. A 30 amp RV connection only has one hot lead, a neutral and a ground connection. A dryer has two hot leads and could apply 240 volts to your 120 volt appliances in your RV. I'm not saying this what happened to you, but this scenario could definitely cause the troubles you had. Here are some good links to how a 30 amp RV connection should be made. When looking at an RV receptacle that is oriented so that the two blade connections are at the bottom, the one at the 7 o'clock position should be the one that is hot. The other blade connection is the neutral.

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf

How to Wire an RV Receptacle : Electrical Online
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:44 AM   #60
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How long has it been running?

It takes about 24 hours on AC and about 18 hours on gas to "get cold."

As to the current limiters, there is at least one and sometimes two. The button is pretty small and on the short side.
So that is what that thing connected to my battery terminal is. I always wondered what it did?

How do they function. And what is their purpose?

Thanks,

Vin.
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