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08-14-2016, 04:07 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1
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Problem with primitive and battery life
Had an older 74 Starcraft trailer and had no problem with running the fridge being a standing pilot. Recently updated to a new Viking 17 ft and the new fridge has an ignitor. ...I have pulled fuses and thought I had just the one on to run the ignitor. Have a 18 w solar cell to keep up with battery, but still goes dead. What can I do to keep the battery up???
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08-14-2016, 04:11 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,179
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18w is barely 1-1/2A. Not enough for anything except maintaining a battery. You either need more better batteries, more solar, or a generator.
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08-14-2016, 10:02 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donniedu
18w is barely 1-1/2A. Not enough for anything except maintaining a battery. You either need more better batteries, more solar, or a generator.
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x2!
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.) 
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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08-15-2016, 08:25 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Where your old fridge didn't use battery power at all to run the fridge, your new one uses battery power all the time to keep the fridge running, not just when the igniter fires. So, you'll use a lot more battery power just running the fridge than you think.
As said above, you need more....
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin! 
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08-15-2016, 12:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 172
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x3
I had the battery die after 2 days. After I got home I did some metering and found out why. The drain is amazing.
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08-15-2016, 12:09 PM
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#6
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,146
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Most newer refrigerators have a heating element around the door frame to help with condensation which runs off 12v. They suck the juice.
Some years had a switch to shut off the door heater but newer ones do not.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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08-15-2016, 12:15 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 172
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5picker
Dam. I looked for the switch on the new trailer, didn't see one, and "assumed" there was no heater. The last trailer fridge had the switch. THAT'S where the juice is all going to.
I'm going to have to try to search the schematic and see if I can fix that for next season.
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08-15-2016, 01:30 PM
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#8
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Wanna Be Camper
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
Most newer refrigerators have a heating element around the door frame to help with condensation which runs off 12v. They suck the juice.
Some years had a switch to shut off the door heater but newer ones do not.
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Not to mention the propane detector, it cannot be disconnected either.
__________________
John & Deb
2011 F250 Lariat FX4 Crew Cab 6.2
2011 Flagstaff V-Lite 30WRLS
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08-15-2016, 01:54 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orland Park, IL
Posts: 471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussPastuch
5picker
Dam. I looked for the switch on the new trailer, didn't see one, and "assumed" there was no heater. The last trailer fridge had the switch. THAT'S where the juice is all going to.
I'm going to have to try to search the schematic and see if I can fix that for next season.
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Search for fridge heater. Someone else has already found which wire to cut.
__________________
2015 Rockwood Roo 23IKSS
2015 GMC Sierra 1500
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08-15-2016, 03:23 PM
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#10
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,146
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I don't know what model you have but if you look on the schematic that is typically on the back side of the fridge, you'll see what wire feeds the door heater. On some it is the same feed wire that goes to the interior light.
On mine, I actually have TWO 12v door heaters that are normally on ALL the time. (4 door fridge)
I was able to locate the wiring after the light but before the heater.
I disable them when we boondock.
HUGE difference in battery life.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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08-15-2016, 03:29 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,299
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Do a search on door heater as there have been several threads showing which connection to remove from the control board.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
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08-15-2016, 05:27 PM
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#12
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: South West PA
Posts: 3,012
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