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Old 05-29-2015, 08:08 AM   #21
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Attachment 78418Attachment 78419Attachment 78420

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08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "9 nights"
turbs,

did you use twist lock or just straight receptacle/plug? even though I bought the portable I'm thinking of moving it inside by cutting my supply wire and adding plug/receptacle

thx,
craig
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:14 AM   #22
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all this work makes me wonder if it would be simpler to just use the portable version. just my 2 cents
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:20 AM   #23
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turbs,

did you use twist lock or just straight receptacle/plug? even though I bought the portable I'm thinking of moving it inside by cutting my supply wire and adding plug/receptacle

thx,
craig
I used 30 amp twist locks.
Bought them on ebay for cheap.
I just found a set of 4 for a guy on the forum for $30.00
Go to lowes or hardware store and they'll be $20.00 - $30.00 a piece!

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Old 05-29-2015, 08:20 AM   #24
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all this work makes me wonder if it would be simpler to just use the portable version. just my 2 cents
Nope. [emoji12]

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Old 05-29-2015, 08:30 AM   #25
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all that work is Beer time interrupted.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:33 AM   #26
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all that work is Beer time interrupted.
Got me there!
Albeit my install was only about an hour.
Hardwired advantages.
1) no theft concerns.
2) in coach "status" display moniter.
3) in coach manual override.


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Old 05-29-2015, 08:41 AM   #27
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in all honesty, if I had to do it over again, i would probably buy the 50 amp hardwire. However, I have the 30 amp portable and am not about to waste the money i already spent.

That and before I saw how easy it was, I was concerned about screwing up the wiring/ electricty/ frying something. DW would not be happy. It's lucky I lived through the whole "you put screws through my new camper" fiasco.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:44 AM   #28
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in all honesty, if I had to do it over again, i would probably buy the 50 amp hardwire. However, I have the 30 amp portable and am not about to waste the money i already spent.

That and before I saw how easy it was, I was concerned about screwing up the wiring/ electricty/ frying something. DW would not be happy. It's lucky I lived through the whole "you put screws through my new camper" fiasco.
I seen that "happen" once .
Only the screws went through the side of the "BOAT" ! [emoji85]

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Old 05-29-2015, 08:48 AM   #29
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I still have to find something cool with Vinyl to put over it.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:50 AM   #30
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I still have to find something cool with Vinyl to put over it.
How about ;
1) bullet hole stickers?
2) sticker of a screw?

[emoji12]

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Old 05-29-2015, 09:46 AM   #31
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WELL, if you pull the incoming power out of the distribution center and install it to one side of the pi unit then buy a 3' piece to go from pi unit back to distribution center then you'll always have enough to wire back in if you remove the unit since you never cut the wire to begin with.
Think smarter not harder.

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2015 camping "9 nights"
House wire sucks......If you working folks would work more over-time, and pay more taxes, my SS might increase and I could afford 1.298 for some wire.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:30 AM   #32
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If you sell rv and want to keep the unit......then what?

I'm an Electrician by trade.. Those plugs are just another point of a possible bad connection .. I can remove the unit just as easily as I installed it,,
Like I said some people may want to go p&p..

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Old 05-29-2015, 09:50 PM   #33
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If you like things dark at night, install the remote display in an enclosure (or in a room other than where you sleep). The remote has two switch settings: 1) normal on operation where the display rotates through voltage, current, frequency error code. 2) Off mode is the bypass mode and directly closes the input to output and displays "OFF". In either case, the display is bright and could be annoying at night. This is from someone that put a small piece of electrical tape over the amber light on the frig.
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:39 PM   #34
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If you like things dark at night, install the remote display in an enclosure (or in a room other than where you sleep). The remote has two switch settings: 1) normal on operation where the display rotates through voltage, current, frequency error code. 2) Off mode is the bypass mode and directly closes the input to output and displays "OFF". In either case, the display is bright and could be annoying at night. This is from someone that put a small piece of electrical tape over the amber light on the frig.
How can you see it with your eyes closed?
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