Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezman
3) Does this type of converter do the "charge, then float, then maintain" stages?
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I also believe that your converter is already three-stage, but double check to make sure. Here the manual ...
Installation/Operators Manual
For use with WFCO ALRTU Distribution Panels
Models WF-8935AN W/PLASTIC, WF-8945AN
W/PLASTIC, WF-8955AN W/PLASTIC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezman
1) Does this converter meet my needs of filling my two 6V batteries?
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In my opinion, yes, it does - kind of.
Although the WFCO's are not the best, they are not terrible converters and it can charge your battery bank. I have a similar WFCO 8955PEC and two 6-volts in series @ 260Ah but charge mostly though a portable charger.
You will find three problems with the WFCO that makes it less-than-desirable with deep cycle 6-volt batteries. One is that its well known to almost never go into bulk mode. Two - it drops its amps quickly to a trickle in order to protect the batteries (I think it does this because many campers like to leave their trailers plugged in all the time, even in storage, so its not a bad thing). Three - many deep cycle batteries need a higher voltage than the converter can provide (e.g., Trojan batteries need 14.8 volts).
I recommend that you buy a good portable three or four stage charger or replace the WFCO with a PD. I plan to do that when my WFCO gives up the ghost.
In my case, because I haven't changed out my WFCO, yet, I use a portable 40amp 3-stage charger from Stanley that hits the mark. I charge through the converter for convenience and when I am using the trailer, but use the charger when I am at home.
Its important to note that sulfation occurs when a lead acid battery is deprived of a full charge, which will happen if the converter cannot charge to its recommended volts as explained above. Crystals form within the battery and eventually larger crystals reduce the batteries active capacity. See
Sulfation and How to Prevent it.
The WFCO 8900 series does
not have the ability to de-sulfate the batteries so periodic reconditioning is recommended to maintain a battery's optimum performance and prolong its life.
On a healthy battery bank, reconditioning mode on my charger sends a series of electrical pulses to break up the crystalline form of lead sulfate and turn these chemicals into useful battery electrolytes. There are better devices to de-sulfate than the reconditioning mode on my Stanley portable, but this works for me as my batteries are only 20-months old and I had done this from the start.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezman
My specific questions are:
2) How long would it take to charge up the 208Ah?
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This is hard to quantify because the batteries are new, you are simultaneously running a load, and we don't know what temperatures you are in now or when you want to camp. This
Trojan Battery Guide will be a good read but your own battery Mfg probably has something similar.
In summary, new batteries will not deliver their full rated capacity (and take more than a few discharge and charge cycles to reach their peak).
You have an unknown load (e.g., some lights on, a radio vampire drain, CO2 detector on, Microwave clock, etc.).
Temperature matters, too - See Table 1 below, which is for Trojan flooded batteries but the concept is the same for all flooded batteries.
You can test this yourself, though, to be most accurate. The best way for you to test your particular set up is to run the battery bank down to 50% SOC (See Table 5 below ~ about 12.1volts as measured with a multimeter at the battery) and then connect the trailer to AC, running with the loads that you described, and time it.
IMO, it should only take a few hours to charge to 80% and then the same amount of time to charge to 100% SOC. As you can see in Diagram 4 below, the amps drop way down towards the end of the charging cycle; thus prolonging the time.
Questions about 2005 Rockwood Roo Power Converter
Linear Mode
