Radio/CD/DVD player draining batteries.

[pgandw]

Your radio/CD/DVD player runs off the chassis battery. Whether or not shore power is allowed to charge the chassis battery is a question I cannot answer. The disconnect (isolator) MIGHT allow reverse flow, and the converter to charge the chassis battery, just like it allows the alternator to charge the coach batteries.

Fred W

[RFLLambert]

The radio/CD/DVD player is energized by the chassis battery when I am on the road because the key is in the ignition switch and the ignition switch is on. When I am on a campground and the key is not in the ignition switch, the energy comes from the coach batteries. This is proved by the fact that if I disconnect the coach batteries, it doesn't work if the key is not in the ignition switch. If I put the key in and turn the switch, then the radio/CD/DVD player is energized even if the coach batteries are disconnected.

Shore power is probably not allowed to charge the chassis battery, but it should energize the radio/CD/DVD player.

[Steve-W]

Have you verified that you converter is actually charging your coach batteries. When you are on the road the chassis alternator may be partially charging your coach batteries which you are then depleting when you are connected to shore power if the converter is not charging or powering the coach as it should.

[RFLLambert]

To Steve-W : Yes it does.

[pgandw]

You have tripped on what is happening - but refuse to see it.

Pull the stereo manufacturers wiring diagram. You will see 2 power wires - the primary goes to the accessory relay that is powered when you put the key in the accessory or on position. The secondary power wire bypasses the ignition switch to provide keep alive power to the stereo memory and presets. This is a universal wiring setup for automotive entertainment systems.

The stereo is powered by your chassis battery. Period. As you said, the key needs to be in the ignition switch for the stereo to work. Yes, the stereo can drain the chassis battery if the engine is not running.

The long term fix is probably to rewire the stereo to your coach 12V system, especially if you are going to use the entertainment system while camping.

Fred W

[Steve-W]

Originally Posted by RFLLambert

No everything is not normal as if I disconnect the batteries my radio will not work even if I am connected to shore power. So, if I leave my cut-off at off and use the radio/CD/DVD player, it uses the power from the batteries instead of from the shore power.

If the above is true then your converter is not charging the batteries (if indeed the radio is operating off the coach battery system) as both scenarios can not be true. The scenarios you have described in this thread seriously conflict with each other and simply can not occur. It may be time to enlist someone with good troubleshooting skills and the proper test gear on motorhome electrical systems.

[RFLLambert]

To pgandw : The radio is not powered only by the chassis battery. The key needs to be in the ignition switch for the stereo to work if the coach batteries are disconnected physically. If they are connected, the key doesn't need to be in the ignition switch. So there is probably a relay somewhere that switch the power source from the chassis battery to the coach batteries when the ignition is off. Again this is a motorhome not a car. And again the coach batteries are drained, not the chassis battery.

To Steve-W : Resulting from the tests I made, I can testify that the converter is charging the coach batteries when the cut-off switch is in the On position. In addition, every 12 Volts accessories are energized. If I turn the cut-off switch to the off position, and if I disconnect the coach batteries, then every 12 volts accessories are energized except the radio. What I am looking for right now is somebody with good knowledge of motorhome electrical systems that can help me identify what causes my problem. When I will return back home next week, I will try to find a technician with good troubleshooting skills and a proper test gear to solve the problem. Ideally it would be easier if I have the problem's source identified before I make an appointment.

[pgandw]

I'm not going to argue anymore. There are conflicts within your statements of symptoms.

It is highly unlikely that an automotive stereo control head built into the dash (or front overhead) and is tied into the chassis electrical system via the accessory relay and ignition key switch has a separate power tie to the coach electrical system. So if your key position has an effect on the radio, then it is tied to the chassis system. If the ignition key has no impact, then it could be tied to either battery (headlights are powered by chassis battery but bypass ignition switch). If your radio is actually powered by the coach batteries, there is no reason for a connection to the chassis battery. If the stereo is powered by the coach batteries, pulling the correct fuse (regardless of shore power) at the distribution panel should shut if off completely - with no way to turn it on until the fuse is put back.

Any cross-feed of power is coming through the connection between the coach system and the chassis system, not a separate wire.

I can see components to the entertainment system (such as display screens) that are located in the coach being powered from the coach batteries and the control head up front being powered by the chassis battery, thereby causing some confusion.

When plugged into shore power, the converter should be powering everything the coach batteries do when not plugged in. A simple voltage check will tell you if the converter is working - your coach electrical should be reading 13.2V or greater (normally 13.7V) when plugged into shore power. After being unplugged from shore power (engine off) for a few hours you should see 12.7V or less on the coach system.

What your "disconnect switch" does and doesn't do is beyond my knowledge. I suspect it's not a true battery disconnect that is the same as disconnecting all the wires from a battery post.

There are a whole lot of parasitic draws besides the radio. And not all of them have fuses at the distribution panel. The fridge frost elimination element, the CO/propane detector, as well as the stereo, are examples that come to mind.

In my towed A-frame, both the primary and keep-alive power wires for the Kenwood stereo were tied to a 12V circuit with multiple accessories on the same fuse (including CO/propane detector, night light, porch light, tongue light). The stereo would turn itself on anytime I changed power - turned the battery disconnect "on", plugged into shore power, plugged into the tow vehicle. I put a switch into both power leads to totally turn off the stereo unless I wanted it on. We don't use it enough to justify the parasitic power for "keep alive" of presets.

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan

[RFLLambert]

Where can I get a plan of the electrical circuits for my 2014 Lexington 265DS?

[androclesandrocles2]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

Now we are starting to understand your problem. The in-dash head unit that plays the DVD is powered by the coach battery under the hood. It has a "parasitic draw" on the coach battery even when it is turned off. The TV is being operated off of shore power. So both have different power sources and there is no common (dual sources) to power the DVD. The only thing connecting them is the video cable.

There is only one condition where the house batteries and the coach battery will cross paths. If your coach battery goes dead, there should be a switch on the lower left side of the driver's seat. Depressing that switch will allow the house batteries to power the coach starter.

If the coach battery is not kept charged over a period of time, the parasitic draw will drain the battery. There are instances where it will drain the battery in a matter of days. So, it is suggested that you either do not have a full charge on the coach battery, the battery is on its way to the recycle bin, there is an abnormal parasitic draw from the head unit, or, there is an abnormal parasitic drain from other coach electronics. I know this because I went through this. Our daily driver battery went dead in two days of sitting. The head unit installer said it was a drain from other than the head unit. The vehicle techs blamed it on the head unit. Neither found the problem. By accident, I disabled the interior lights and problem solved. It is frustrating, but it was a process by elimination.

Unless you are boondocking, I would suggest getting an AC 115 volt DVD player. You also need to check on the coach battery condition. If that is good, check for abnormal parasitic draw. Finally, the dvd drive motor and sound system just may be too much for the coach battery over the matter of hours.

Definitely consider an amp probe to read the actual draw also (Walmart online or Amazon $30.00+/- for a basic ) when you know how much it's suppose to and what is is. Switching a wire with extra with one not enough is possible or isolating the parasites & vampires that stay up nights like Gremlins making your full battery dip into a , where did it go?
Got a couple of milliwatt DC volt/amp meters AND A COUPLE OF CIGARETTE LIGHTER types, shared with a few friends, they are simple purposed guardian's of the night.
A single or two way battery isolator switch (hidden) in your "coach" would help keep the children apart: so you can isolate each unit and finger the problem, give individual attention to each batteries health care with a BIGGER charger, isolated it won't disturb the neighbors or the converter/trickle charger coming form on shore AC. Plus you can max one two, three or until you run out of fingers or money and save individual systems; think power tongue & STABLIZERS power units (that only work for you) down while the creeps look for a fast pull?

That said: please if you consider anything add this to it: Dry battery backup CO2 smoke, lp or even temperature sensors/ detectors.
No power no heat ice or hot water in some units and NO AIR in ALL units.
Nobody will mind if they ALL go off in a real emergency and they are cheaper than than hospitals, replacement children or funerals? That's kinda RAW& not to PC but I meant it that way,these are very interested regulated "temporary living accommodations"with I plan to extend time and time again as long as I can keep it safe, comfortable and resist the temptation to change upgrade or downside for as long as possible.

Think twice and do once: or more if in doubt about: any of any of this. 😆
Money has a specific numerical value: memories and the feeling of accomplishment and success really don't!

[camaraderie]

^^^^^Thanks for clearing that up! ^^^^^

[Kirk S]

Originally Posted by androclesandrocles2

Definitely consider an amp probe to read the actual draw also (Walmart online or Amazon $30.00+/- for a basic ) when you know how much it's suppose to and what is is. Switching a wire with extra with one not enough is possible or isolating the parasites & vampires that stay up nights like Gremlins making your full battery dip into a , where did it go?
Got a couple of milliwatt DC volt/amp meters AND A COUPLE OF CIGARETTE LIGHTER types, shared with a few friends, they are simple purposed guardian's of the night.
A single or two way battery isolator switch (hidden) in your "coach" would help keep the children apart: so you can isolate each unit and finger the problem, give individual attention to each batteries health care with a BIGGER charger, isolated it won't disturb the neighbors or the converter/trickle charger coming form on shore AC. Plus you can max one two, three or until you run out of fingers or money and save individual systems; think power tongue & STABLIZERS power units (that only work for you) down while the creeps look for a fast pull?

That said: please if you consider anything add this to it: Dry battery backup CO2 smoke, lp or even temperature sensors/ detectors.
No power no heat ice or hot water in some units and NO AIR in ALL units.
Nobody will mind if they ALL go off in a real emergency and they are cheaper than than hospitals, replacement children or funerals? That's kinda RAW& not to PC but I meant it that way,these are very interested regulated "temporary living accommodations"with I plan to extend time and time again as long as I can keep it safe, comfortable and resist the temptation to change upgrade or downside for as long as possible.

Think twice and do once: or more if in doubt about: any of any of this. 😆
Money has a specific numerical value: memories and the feeling of accomplishment and success really don't!

It would be less confusing to those who don't know better to call what you're calling the coach battery the chassis battery.
The coach battery and house battery are one (or two) and the same.
Dang, you even had me confused for a minute!

As far as a parasitic draw, when I'm not using my rig it can sit for 30 days and the lowest I've seen my battery go is 11.9 volts. It starts just fine even though I have a in-dash DVD player among other parasites so maybe they're not all created equal?

As far as meters, testing, battery chargers, etc, if the chassis battery is dying that quickly I would put a shut-off switch on it or disconnect it and save some money.

[johnbryanpeters]

Originally Posted by Netgain

It would be less confusing to those who don't know better to call what you're calling the coach battery the chassis battery.
The coach battery and house battery are one (or two) and the same.
Dang, you even had me confused for a minute!

As far as a parasitic draw, when I'm not using my rig it can sit for 30 days and the lowest I've seen my battery go is 11.9 volts. It starts just fine even though I have a in-dash DVD player among other parasites so maybe they're not all created equal?

As far as meters, testing, battery chargers, etc, if the chassis battery is dying that quickly I would put a shut-off switch on it or disconnect it and save some money.

11.9 VDC is low enough to reduce battery life.