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Old 08-17-2015, 10:25 AM   #1
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Replace Elixir-45?

OK, I'm pretty sure my convertor/charger needs replacing. 2004 unit, it's done its duty.
Last year, we heard the cooling fan coming on/off all the time. Seems like it should have stayed on longer, then stayed off. But it would come on for a few seconds, then off, on, off.
Last week, noticed dim lights, and the fridge light flickering. All fuses/breakers OK. Then noticed the fridge stopped working (board needs 12volt, even on propane). All this time, the air conditioner and all AC outlets were fine. I plugged into the truck (engine running), and all 12v items came back to life. Left it running 15 minutes to charge. Sparing light use that night, and the fridge ran all night.
Day 2, it ran dead again. I charged again.
Day 3, convertor seemed to come back to life, and did not need another charge thru day 4 when we went home.

But I don't want to risk it again. Questions:
1. Upper power distribution (AC breakers, DC fuses, etc) seems to be fine. Is it common to just replace the lower unit (converter, charger, cooling, etc)? Seems like that would only be a few wires/lugs. Or for a 2004, should I replace the entire thing?
2. Is this fairly simple DIY, like changing your home thermostat? Mark all wires, and be sure they are reconnected properly?

I think I saw a site (Best Convertor) that had a WFCO replacement board (3-stage upgrade) for my Elixir-45. Anyone work with them?
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Old 08-18-2015, 03:50 PM   #2
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Wow. 30 views and no comments? Maybe I put in more details than people wanted to read? Where are the electrical experts?

Summary:
1. Should I replace just the lower section, or the entire thing?
2. Is this something I should try myself?
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:31 AM   #3
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A friend of mine had his converter go out recently on a different model travel trailer, took him a couple hours to swap it out, he said it was fairly painless and straight forward. Sorry I don't have more specifics...
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:59 AM   #4
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OK, I have the convertor out, with all of the wires carefully labeled. The lower convertor section does not seem easily replaced, so I will replace the entire thing.

BestConverter.com (and Randy himself) is recommends the Boondocker 4-Stage PowerCenter 60Amp (BPC4-60) as a direct replacement for the ELX-45. It seems pricey, at $215, not including any new breakers. But it looks to be designed to fit the same opening, with no mods needed to the camper. 60Amp output concerned me, but everybody seems to trust "Randy". I did confirm my battery cable is beefy 6-gage stuff, going to my grp-27 12v deep cycle.

So, is anybody using the "Boondocker"? Can't find it anywhere else. I wonder if it's Randy's own creation/house-brand.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:02 AM   #5
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There's a few members on the forum that have the boondocker.
From what I've read they like them!
Don't worry about the 60 amp, put it in and go camping!

Don't know how I missed this thread.

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Old 09-10-2015, 03:32 PM   #6
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Complete Boondocker 60Amp Powercenter (not just the converter) is showing up UPS on Friday, so planning to install Saturday.

I've heard there isn't much in the way of instructions. I know where each wire, breaker, and fuse need to go. But I'm wondering if there are any functional "checks" I should do:
a. during the process, and/or
b. before I secure the unit to the cabinet

Any tips from those who've done this before?
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:02 PM   #7
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Working with Best Converter:
The converter that showed up was much different than what was pictures. The good thing is that the PowerCenter itself is a steel case, rather than the plastic that was shown. The main disappointment was that the DC distribution does not have the LED blown-fuse indicators that are advertised/shown. But there are only 6 fuses, and I'll live.

The reinstallation job was more work than I thought it would be, but I'm sure I save a lot of money doing it myself.

Question:
The system test instructions said to pull the reverse-polarity protection fuses (2x40Amp), and check the DC voltage across the converter + output, and the AC ground. It should be 13.4-13.8VDC. I was getting about 14.7VDC. This was without a battery connected, but the positive battery cable was attached to the DC board.

Is this cause for concern? I know that 14.7VDC is the Stage 1 Boost/Bulk Output. But why is it putting out this much without a battery installed? The lights were certainly brighter than normal. I don't want to ruin anything in the camper.
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:07 PM   #8
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Is there a button to change modes?



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Old 10-22-2015, 10:11 PM   #9
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No mode buttons to be found. Below is a pic with the AC cover removed. I just removed the lower panel again, and confirmed there are no switches in the converter section. I did read elsewhere that the red positive battery cable should be disconnected from the DC panel when running that test, but I don't know why that would matter without a battery connected.
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