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06-22-2012, 08:26 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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Replacement Tail Light Socket
Wednesday while backing into a campsite the wife noticed that the left rear brake light was not working. I did a quick check and the socket was corroded the bulb looked good but, I couldn't get it out. Yesterday while we were out and about I picked up some PB Blaster and a replacement bulb. I sprayed the socket with the PB and let it sit for a few hours. Bulb still wouldn't come out. Well I am sure you can guess what happened next. I broke the glass on the bulb and crushed the metal part trying to free it up with some pliers. So now basically I have the crushed metal part of the bulb stuck in the socket and doubt I can get it out. I am heading home today and will be driving mostly in the country so I should be OK to get home. I will try to remove whats left when I can get to more tools but, If I can't get it out or screw up the socket trying I need to find a replacement socket. Are this some special order thing or will I be able to find them at a RV dealer?
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06-22-2012, 09:22 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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This is all going to depend on a lot of things. Which bulb? The old 1157 round base bulb? These you can get just sockets for at auto parts places. Or the 2057 new style that just plugs in? Never seen just a socket, but worth a check. Also going to depend on how the socket attaches to the housing. Might be time to upgrade to L.E.D. taillights.
__________________
LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT
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06-22-2012, 09:46 AM
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#3
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"On the road again"
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Parker County Texas
Posts: 1,152
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I've had a similar situation before...and I used needle-nose pliers and inserted the "needle nose" into the socket and then spread the handles apart to open the needle nose portion. Forcing the pliers open with a lot of force can often give you enough traction to be able to unscrew the base.
Similarly I've done this on inside light bulbs (especially the candelabra type) that are so bad about coming loose from the base.
Good luck!
__________________
Robert & Estha Shiflet
Georgetown XL 378TS
Jeep Gladiator Willys Tow Vehicle
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06-22-2012, 10:21 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickV
Wednesday while backing into a campsite the wife noticed that the left rear brake light was not working. I did a quick check and the socket was corroded the bulb looked good but, I couldn't get it out. Yesterday while we were out and about I picked up some PB Blaster and a replacement bulb. I sprayed the socket with the PB and let it sit for a few hours. Bulb still wouldn't come out. Well I am sure you can guess what happened next. I broke the glass on the bulb and crushed the metal part trying to free it up with some pliers. So now basically I have the crushed metal part of the bulb stuck in the socket and doubt I can get it out. I am heading home today and will be driving mostly in the country so I should be OK to get home. I will try to remove whats left when I can get to more tools but, If I can't get it out or screw up the socket trying I need to find a replacement socket. Are this some special order thing or will I be able to find them at a RV dealer?
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RickV I see your trailer is a 06 Rockwood. I have another T/L assy. I mailed one to a member on here free. I will give you one also,but this time (I) will not pay shipping! Send me a E mail and I will ship it. The one he rechieved from me was the (Stop/turn/license plate light). Youroo!!
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06-22-2012, 02:32 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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Just got in the house after parking and cleaning up the 5er. It is the 2057 type the ones that twist lock. When I said socket I meant the whole little metal assembly I will take a picture and post it later after the sun goes behind the trees. I planned on doing the needle nose pliers trick (just didn't have any with me) and will try that when I take the picture.
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06-22-2012, 03:49 PM
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#7
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"On the road again"
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Parker County Texas
Posts: 1,152
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One note of clarification (disclaimer if you wish) - if doing the needle-nose pliers trick on your inside (110 volt) lights - PLEASE remember to shut down the appropriate circuit at the breaker box.
__________________
Robert & Estha Shiflet
Georgetown XL 378TS
Jeep Gladiator Willys Tow Vehicle
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06-22-2012, 07:43 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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It has been raining since around 4:30 so I didn't get a chance to mess with it. I called a local RV Dealers Parts Counter and they have the whole assembly in stock for $14 so I will just pick one up tomorrow.
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06-23-2012, 07:12 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Brookings
Posts: 561
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Those sockets are available at almost all auto parts stores for just a few dollars.
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06-25-2012, 09:43 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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OK so it finally stopped raining for a while. I go out and install new assembly. I hook up the pigtail to the truck and I have this happening, turn signal works without headlights on, with the headlights on the turn signal bulb stays on like as if I was stepping on the brake. Any suggestions?
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06-25-2012, 12:16 PM
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#11
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickV
OK so it finally stopped raining for a while. I go out and install new assembly. I hook up the pigtail to the truck and I have this happening, turn signal works without headlights on, with the headlights on the turn signal bulb stays on like as if I was stepping on the brake. Any suggestions?
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Bad ground?
Wrong wires connected to filements?
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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08-01-2012, 01:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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I have been kinda busy and hadn't had a chance to address this problem until yesterday. I checked the voltages at the Truck all were good, plugged in pigtail in and now turn signal/brake light on left not working at all. I checked the voltages at the pigtail and all are 13+ volts except for the left turn/brake/running which is at 4.6 volts. I was using the battery pin and then read the voltage at every other pin. I am thinking of running new wires but, does anyone know if they are ran through the walls or are under the bib or whatever it is called? I have a 2006 Rockwood 8280SS.
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08-01-2012, 01:58 PM
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#13
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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My sockets are corroded and the bulbs can't be removed.
I bought complete new tail lights. They are very cheap.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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08-01-2012, 02:05 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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Yeah I had the same problem and replaced the whole assemblies but still having same problem. Just trying to find out where the wiring harness runs.
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08-02-2012, 03:59 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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OK got a lot resolved today. Had the thing hooked up kinda wrong. FR uses a red wire for the left turn/brake signal. The replacement socket setup has green, black and white. I had hooked the green to green and PO had spliced a black wire to the red wire so I hooked up black to black. This was wrong the green wire on the socket is the turn signal and the black is the running light. So after changing those around the running light was normal. Still had a problem with the turn signal not working. I checked voltages at the truck connector and they where working properly so I used a jumper wire at the trailer plug and jumped from the battery post to the turn signal post and it lit like it was supposed to. So I assumed that the trailer plug was the culprit, it is probably the original one. I picked one up the this afternoon and will install it tomorrow morning when it is cooler out. Hopefully that should do the trick. BTW the wiring harness does run under the camper and not through the walls but, I didn't have to mess with it but at least now I know where it is.
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