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Old 02-20-2012, 11:10 PM   #11
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We have a 50 amp Sabre on order and plan on buying this:
RV Power Cord Adapter 25' 30 amp to 50 amp Marinco Locking Connector Detachable

Sounds like this will solve your problem too!
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:59 PM   #12
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Why rewire?

IHMO Csfoistman has the right idea as adapters go from 50 to 30, and from 30 to 50. Then purchase a cord to plug into your adapter in the 30 range.

Furthermore, you may want 50A one of these days, and maybe when you sell....

Mike
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:34 PM   #13
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When we go into Canada and Alaska the available power choices are usually 15 AMP and 30 AMP, so we need a couple of dogbones and a heavy duty 15amp cord around 50' long. It is rare in May to need the AC, so for overnight the load is limited to battery charging, lights, TV and maybe the Micro. It is pretty easy to live on 15AMP as long as you do need the AC.
Terry
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:12 AM   #14
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Hi Mike, I wasn't planning on rewiring. I think the title of my post may have mislead the conversation. I was only asking if the 25' Marnico adapter cord was compatible with the female connection on the 5er. I thought I read somewhere that they may not be compatible with other brands. 09Grizzly's post indicates that they are generic. I am actually looking at the same long adapter cord that SimchaSabre is looking at in the above post.

I looked at the installed connector on my 5er last weekend and it is the Conntek brand. The 50A cord that came with the trailer is also Conntek. Conntek has a 35' 50A to 30A adapter cord that I am also considering ... although it is a bit more pricey. here is the amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Even though I was not asking about rewiring I do appreciate the replies and found them interesting. After reading them it did make me think about what appliances I might be losing when I run on 30A (2nd AC that is not installed, hot water heater, ???).

Some very smart people on this forum. Thanks for the replies!

Joe
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:06 AM   #15
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OOPS, sorry.

Guilty as charged-- we should not not get caught up in the aftermath should we? ha

I'm also positive it wasn't the first time, and it'll probably not be the last I'll do this.

Enjoy,

Mike
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traveler2955 View Post
OOPS, sorry.

Guilty as charged-- we should not not get caught up in the aftermath should we? ha

I'm also positive it wasn't the first time, and it'll probably not be the last I'll do this.

Enjoy,

Mike
Same here, I thought your 50 amp cord was internally connected. Didn't realize the set-up you have. Hey, we all learned a little something anyway and that's cool!!
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:07 PM   #17
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In our home, We have some 240 volt appliances.
These include kitchen range, clothes dryer, electric hot water heater,
central air conditioner.

In a 50 amp trailer are there any 240 volt appliances???
I think that maybe some models do have 240 volt appliances and some
don't.

That is the real question in my mind.
If your roof AC is 120v I don't see why the OP can't just use an adapter.

I also suggest not to change the trailer cord connector due to issues
with re-sale.
I disagree with the brown out post.
As long as he's only got one 120v roof AC and a 1500 watt 120v water
heater, he's got virtually the same as me.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
In our home, We have some 240 volt appliances.
These include kitchen range, clothes dryer, electric hot water heater,
central air conditioner.

In a 50 amp trailer are there any 240 volt appliances???
I think that maybe some models do have 240 volt appliances and some
don't.

That is the real question in my mind.
If your roof AC is 120v I don't see why the OP can't just use an adapter.

I also suggest not to change the trailer cord connector due to issues
with re-sale.
I disagree with the brown out post.
As long as he's only got one 120v roof AC and a 1500 watt 120v water
heater, he's got virtually the same as me.
There may be some on the higher end models but I believe 120 Volts is the norm for AC Units and in my case the Washer / Dryer set-up is 120 Volts, don't have one but if we ever want to add it, we have everything needed. The water heaters are not large enough to need the large electric elements that require 240 volts.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:41 PM   #19
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Got it ... the new 35' 50A to 30A cord. Used it with my generator this past weekend at Bristol and it worked great. I tried all appliances/lights/air/etc. (except the electric water heater) and they worked perfectly. Thanks for all the advice.

Joe
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:18 PM   #20
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As an electrical engineer (now retired) it's my opinion if that this is intended to be a permanent change and not an occasional stop-gap measure at a c/g that only has a 30 amp connection, you should swap out the panel from an 240 volt one to a 120 volt. But there are pros and cons.

A new panel is under $200. Then, you'll have the cost of a 30 amp cordset and inlet. Some of the cord/inlet stuff is crazy expensive for what it is. There are some deals on ebay if you know your pricing. It's dumb, but you can buy a complete new Marinco 30 amp cordset for about the same price as just the 30 amp connector and weatherproof boot to convert your old cable. You could be looking at around $200 for a new inlet and cordset. Or a lot more depending on where you buy it.

So then you are looking at $400 and up (allowing for misc. bits and pieces) for all of the material. For those no longer a spring chicken (like me), working in cramped quarters inside an RV at floor level to work on and behind a panel can be REALLY hard on the body and joints.

I'm thinking fuggedaboutit at this point already.

If you use a "cheater" adapter to go from 50 to 30 amps, you will get 30 amps at 120 volts, but only on one leg, or 1/2 of your panel's circuits. Can you live with that? I don't know how you would change that if you wanted because you get what you get depending on what leg your adapter is connected to. So you may find a receptacle at the kitchen counter not working, the converter not working, or the A/C not working. You probably could rearrange some circuits in the panel to help this situation.

Yup, and lastly there's the resale issue to wonder about. Might be a real turn off for buyers to learn that you have downgraded the power in your RV to 30A/120V..

Hmmmm, sounds like it would be whole lot easier to use an adapter and run on reduced power!

FWIW, I just added a 15 amp inlet on the outside and one receptacle inside for those times we want to run an extra appliance. Now we can brag we have a 45 amper.....
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